Proper post edit in the next few days. Just a bit giddy looking at that image above and couldn't resist not posting that, although I didn't want to spam the portable LCD thread
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Parting out a List
After poking a bit in the portable LCD thread, I started to read into the parts and group togher a few possible builds (the same time wasting thing I do when a new CPU/motherboard goes up for sale).
There're two ways to start looking in this: one is to find a display controller for an existing LCD (I actually have a leftover 15" 720p LCD from a 7-year old laptop), and the other is to find an LCD for the controller. The second way is usually easier, in the sense that there are a list of display panels that the controller is made to run, and nothing should go wrong if that's being followed.
The other option is finding a controller from those replacement LCD panels off Amazon. Still have to look at eBay for the controller. A few close hits (some are a few characters off in the LCD support list), which needs clarification from the sellers).
On the way of finding the controller of the laptop panel I already have, I stumbled upon ROZSNYO's controllers (iPad 3; rMBP) (from elsewhere, forgot where ._.) and Abusemark's iPad display controllers.
So a few options:
- Old Laptop Display (free)
- Controller off eBay
- Power source from barrel plug
- need to figure out case build
- LCD panels off Amazon (higher res: 1920:1080 or maybe 2560:1440)
- Controller off eBay
- Power source from barrel plug
- need to figure out case build
- Abusemark iPad Controller
- iPad Panel off Amazon/eBay
- Power Source from USB
- need to figure out case build
Going off Abusemark's controllers, I went to eBay to look for used iPads. Found one. Managed to buy one. And the controller.
I went for an iPad Air with a dead logic board because it's the cheapest I could find at the time, and (picking nits at this point) I'm more comfortable with a snap-on display connector vs a ZIF ribbon cable. There are just the LCD panels itself, but for the price and a bit more I could have the case as well. Compared to getting a separate shell off other listings or even iFixit.
Also bonus for original panels for that Apple Colour Garuantee
iPad Arrival, and Project Compulsion Disorder
So both the iPad and the display controller arrived in roughly the same week, and after I got to testing them, I had to figure out how to mount the controller to the case.
The downside of this setup is that the ribbon display cable is short, so I couldn't flip the controller with the back inside (or I would suggest the display connector on the controller board be on the other side instead, but that's not up to me, LOL)
Plan B (so to speak, since this is the first viable plan, which would be plan A) is to mount the board from the outside of the case. First immediate problem is that the mini displayport receptacle is taller than the space I have from the back of the LCD to the outside of the case. Going by the previous paragraph the board would be inside with both ports poking out. So first idea was a simple standoff.
Then I had the thought for 3D printing a case just for the controller.
Then a spacer to keep the LCD panel closer to the glass (there's a 1mm air gap from the glass to the display)
Then, then, then...
Distraction time. Caliper work starts in the inside of the iPad case and the display. There's a PDF from Apple for making cases to most iDevices, and I brought that into illustrator as base reference. Measuring the LCD panel itself wasn't easy, especially at the mounting holes when I have ten different lengths over that many repeated measurements (and then most of the time some compound measurements didn't add up to the overall length measurement).
It's along this process that I kinda had the worry on how little tolerance I want with the printout and how much accuracy I realistically should expect from the 3D printers. I went with the "print bigger if not exact" route so I could shave off some plastic rather than looking into filling space with epoxy or something.
>>img paper
I did use literal printouts to gauge the accuracy of my measurements (by putting them into the case), and also to give myself some sense of translation from the physical parts I have. Kinda wonder if there are other ways (easier or more accurate) to do this.
Same goes for the controller board. Once I got to know the diameter of the holes, I went to find screws for them. (M3 by the way)
Next was figuring out the board position and cable routing. There's the restriction of the short display cable, so the board had to be in a vague range horizontally: not too far so that I could risk slicing the cable from the cutout I'll be making on the case, but not too close that I have too much overrun/overflex.
Once that's all done, I went to step three. The only way I know.
A surface modeller goes to a solids wormhole (with a garden spade)
Off the bat: it's not recommended to use a Maya for a Solidworks project, LOL. It's like using MSpaint for a Photoshop job (you can,, but...)
All the Illustrator lines gets imported, so I do zero measurements while inside.
While all of this is underway, I was looking for 3D printing options. I wasn't sure if I could commit to figuring out an extruder printer setup (also height-dimension accuracy from layering, not sure if it's a thing I should be worried about for a given known-working printer), so with the you-get-what-you-pay-for-so-prepare-the-pony route I went looking into services doing SLS. I briefly considered CNC, but that's more expensive (at least locally in my area).
Landed on the Shapeways materials page and paused the search there. I had the thought of just modelling to their design tolerance and going off from there again. Shapeways accepts OBJs, that's something I can export to without having to find an STL file handling plugin.
The model revisions were mostly to make printing off shapeways as affordable as I can. In order:
- Original, one piece. Horizontal space occupation contributed to most of the price
- First attempt to gauge price reduction in total volume while maintaining the one-piece thing. Made holes at first, then make a two large gaping spaces. Also added the controller board cover. Not a big enough dent, but at least it's something.
- First test upload in multiple pieces. Slightly more expensive due to labour cost per part, but that'll be addressed when I weld some clip-off studs later. Other than that it's another dent in the price
- Second volume reduction pass. Made the borders less broad. Another small dent
- Final piece, in two total parts. Final pass on all print issues in one fell swoop. Final dent, shaved a total of $21.93 off the original $71.68 estimate. Minus shipping.
Yeah. Free shipping week happened on Shapeways.
And I was at the point where I wasn't adding much to the model, so that leap of faith took place on day 2 of the event. If there's anything wrong with the model at most it'd be an expensive lesson in plebeian prototyping. ($50 for a functional print that contributes 20% physically to the project is less than ideal ,_,)
The Cobble Build
--To be added: I'll have to go through video footage to get screengrabs. Decided for the video to log everything from start to finish.
Epilogue
--TBA
The Damage Counter
iPad (for parts: Shell, LCD, Glass)
58.67 USD (July 2017, including shipping)
Abusemark Board4900 JPY (July 2017, including EMS shipping, about 44.44 USD)
Shapeways Print49.75 USD (September 2017, free shipping!)
The Scorecard
>>img dremel adjustments
Verdict:
Was the $152.86 project worth it:
Small future improvements to this very project
- Re-taping the glass to the screen. Not with duck tape, but with grip tape this time. Just because. Maybe.
- Actually I'm thinking of going the magnets route again. Not sure if Displayport signals are prone to magnetic interference...?
- Soldering power cable directly to the board. At least it's doable externally as-is now. Kinda not liking the shakiness of micro USB in general everywhere
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