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Not without cutting the wire. You could always measure the outer diameter of the wire with calipers, but that doesn't tell you how thick the copper inside is. The insulation should also be stamped with the wire gauge. Though you can't always trust that: I once cut an "18AWG" power lead on a cheap PCIe riser to find that it was in reality something like 24AWG - barely a few strands of copper in there (in hindsight, I could tell that that wire was off: plastic insulation bends very differently from copper, obviously, and it felt very different from 18AWG PSU cables I've used, softer, and it held bends to a much lesser degree). But for something made to transfer at least a couple of amps of AC, I see no reason to doubt that its 18AWG. 18AWG should be fine for around 3A (.75mm² wiring is what is used for standard C8 appliance power cables, which are rated for 3A), so it'll handle >600W on 220V or >300W on 120V. For a short run like that it might even be fine for higher amperages than that, but don't take my word for it - I'm not an electrician or electrical engineer.

<blockquote data-quote="Valantar" data-source="post: 223375" data-attributes="member: 5738"><p>Not without cutting the wire. You could always measure the outer diameter of the wire with calipers, but that doesn't tell you how thick the copper inside is. The insulation should also be stamped with the wire gauge. Though you can't always trust that: I once cut an &quot;18AWG&quot; power lead on a cheap PCIe riser to find that it was in reality something like 24AWG - barely a few strands of copper in there (in hindsight, I could tell that that wire was off: plastic insulation bends very differently from copper, obviously, and it felt very different from 18AWG PSU cables I've used, softer, and it held bends to a much lesser degree). But for something made to transfer at least a couple of amps of AC, I see no reason to doubt that its 18AWG. 18AWG should be fine for around 3A (.75mm² wiring is what is used for standard C8 appliance power cables, which are rated for 3A), so it'll handle &gt;600W on 220V or &gt;300W on 120V. For a short run like that it might even be fine for higher amperages than that, but don't take my word for it - I'm not an electrician or electrical engineer.</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="Valantar, post: 223375, member: 5738"] Not without cutting the wire. You could always measure the outer diameter of the wire with calipers, but that doesn't tell you how thick the copper inside is. The insulation should also be stamped with the wire gauge. Though you can't always trust that: I once cut an "18AWG" power lead on a cheap PCIe riser to find that it was in reality something like 24AWG - barely a few strands of copper in there (in hindsight, I could tell that that wire was off: plastic insulation bends very differently from copper, obviously, and it felt very different from 18AWG PSU cables I've used, softer, and it held bends to a much lesser degree). But for something made to transfer at least a couple of amps of AC, I see no reason to doubt that its 18AWG. 18AWG should be fine for around 3A (.75mm² wiring is what is used for standard C8 appliance power cables, which are rated for 3A), so it'll handle >600W on 220V or >300W on 120V. For a short run like that it might even be fine for higher amperages than that, but don't take my word for it - I'm not an electrician or electrical engineer. [/QUOTE]

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