Power Supply Want to Make your own Custom Sleeved PSU Cables? Let me Help you Get familiar with the basic tools.

[Vamp_Studios]

So there are plenty of people (including Myself) who you can go to to buy fully customizable handmade cables for your PC but if you want to DIY it, this Thread should serve as the absolute Basic Intro to custom cable creation.

The Tools You'll Need...

Tooling Budget = $110 - $210

Red = Required
Orange = Optional
Blue = Link To Product

Dupont Pin Crimpers. These are 100% necessary Of course and are used to Crimp all Kinds of Pins onto the Wire.
Link to the One I Use:
https://www.amazon.com/Zhushan-0-25-1-5mm%C2%B2-Insulation-Terminals-Connector/dp/B086YG8NQB/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=1TYA9GFW5PMMN&keywords=dupont%2Bcrimping%2Btool&qid=1662486141&sprefix=%2Caps%2C40&sr=8-3-spons&th=1

Manual Wire Strippers + Auto Wire Strippers. You will Need Both if you are making Modular Cables that Include Double/Split wires within their Pinout. The Auto Wire strippers are for Stripping the Ends of the Wires to crimp pins on. The Manual Wire Stripper tool is for My technique (aka the Best Technique) of making the Split Wires more Detail on that Later. Links Here:
https://www.amazon.com/Self-Adjusting-Stripper-Klein-Tools-11061/dp/B00CXKOEQ6/ref=sr_1_6_mod_primary_new?crid=3NH2TT13R2TPP&keywords=wire+stripper&qid=1662486561&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=Wire+s%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/DOWELL-Stripper-Multi-Function-Tool%EF%BC%8CProfessional-Craftsmanship/dp/B06X9875Z7/ref=sr_1_12?crid=3NH2TT13R2TPP&keywords=wire+stripper&qid=1662486561&sprefix=Wire+s%2Caps%2C74&sr=8-12

Fine Side Cutters + Scissors. These are Simple and pretty Self Explanatory. It doesn't matter much what brand you get here just make sure they are decent quality.

Flameless Micro Torch or Generic Lighter + Butane. These are for Melting the Sleeving to Bind it to the wire. If you are making your cables to the perfect Length you'll Probably be making half the cable outside of the Case and then installing the cable in the case and Finishing the PSU end of the cable in the case. In order not to melt the paint on the case you'll want a Precision Flameless Micro torch and use the Heat Shrink Melt Method. The Flameless micro torch is also Best to use if your chosen sleeving is A nylon Based PET. The generic Lighter is for melting Paracord to bind it to the wire.Link to the Flameless Micro Torch:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4470-Butane-Powered-Flameless-Micro/dp/B00JF5T7C8/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1LSBBOQQFD6WE&keywords=flameless+micro+torch&qid=1662487564&sprefix=%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-2

Soldering Iron + Helping hands. It's Important if you plan on doing this a lot to spend a bit more for Good quality. But Most importantly for the Soldering Iron get one That has an On/Off switch and a Stand. Links to what I use Here:
https://www.amazon.com/8586-Soldering-Station-Digital-Display/dp/B07Y7BNQ2F/ref=sr_1_14?crid=3DOQKY9D903EF&keywords=soldering+hot+air+station&qid=1662487816&sprefix=soldering+hot+air%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-14

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01902-Adjustable-Magnifying-Alligator/dp/B000P42O3C/ref=sr_1_5?crid=R9V8P0IE5G09&keywords=soldering+helping+hands&qid=1662487890&sprefix=soldering+helping+hands%2Caps%2C80&sr=8-5

Silicone Soldering Mat. This is a Heat resistant Soldering Surface That protects your desk from Soldering This is important, especially if Soldering on a Potentially Flammable Surface like a Wooden desktop. Link here:
https://www.amazon.com/Hengtianmei-Insulation-Silicone-Position-Soldering/dp/B08V4YPJZN/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=12OIDJ5J2LKDP&keywords=silicone%2Bsoldering%2Bmat&qid=1662488157&sprefix=%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-2-spons&th=1

PSU Tester. Early on when new to Custom cables I HIGHLY recommend you get one or two of these PSU testers They will save you if you make a Wiring mistake. You Might Destroy a PSU tester early on However They are only $10 USD and it's better to part ways with one of these than to Potentially Kill A GPU, Motherboard, CPU, HDD, SSD, etc... Please Invest In one of these because they are a Lifesaver For beginners and even Experts. Link here:
https://www.amazon.com/Comidox-Computer-Supply-Tester-Automatic/dp/B07J9LRC6T/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1ZRFWAFDEDWM1&keywords=psu+tester&qid=1662485852&sprefix=Psu+tes%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-8

Digital Multimeter. This is an obvious must-have for an electrician and it is a valuable tool for this use case, however, it's technically not required if you can't stretch the budget by $20-$40. There is a $10 option on Amazon but I cannot vouch for the quality as I don't own it. Links to the cheapest one and the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Plusivo-Digital-Multimeter-Measuring-Resistance/dp/B086Q4PKYT/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=4mzXP&content-id=amzn1.sym.8cf3b8ef-6a74-45dc-9f0d-6409eb523603&pf_rd_p=8cf3b8ef-6a74-45dc-9f0d-6409eb523603&pf_rd_r=V3G4PJECAHMNMFTPR5B2&pd_rd_wg=2OmUg&pd_rd_r=a88ad583-f891-4932-8bda-1695c3961662&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi

https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Multimeter-Resistance-Transistors-Temperature/dp/B071JL6LLL/ref=sr_1_20_sspa?crid=GGPFAPTK6QZ2&keywords=digital+multimeter&qid=1662660043&sprefix=%2Caps%2C39&sr=8-20-spons&psc=1

 

[Vamp_Studios]

How to make a Wiring Pinout Diagram

The next Topic that We'll Cover here is How to Use the Stock Cables to make a Wiring Pinout Diagram. This is VERY important to get right if you're making Custom Modular Cables because while the Component end Pinout is Standardized the modular connections on the PSU end are Not. This as you may know is why you should NEVER Mix and Match modular cables from different PSU manufacturers and even the same manufacturer's cables can be Different if they Come From Different Product Line ups. For Example, The Pinout For a SeaSonic Focus GX-850w and Focus PX-850w have Compatible Pinouts BUT the Wires are Rearranged in the plugs. So as a rule of thumb If you are in any doubt at all Use the stock cables as a Reference.

"Great, so how do I make a Pinout diagram?" I hear you ask. Well, the way I go about making Wiring Diagrams is with an Excel Spreadsheet. Link to my 2 Pre-Made templates Here:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cfkwCasqu0TaBpsh2sOFpGfzZ-jr-vyRqb6oikLrmIo/edit?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1koxHj3m6TkuUoVBm4G4rbdPLIqj5jBBZGiDQre_iemM/edit?usp=sharing

To Easily tell Which wires go where I suggest using a DMM or Digital Multimeter and Probing in Continuity Mode. A Cheap Multimeter will do just fine here so no need to go out and spend $100+ just get one that is reasonably priced if you don't have one already. $20-$40 should suffice here. The process of probing is Simple and I covered it in an Old YouTube Video with a PSU I got Off eBay for $20. Link Here:

Materials

Red = Required
Orange = Optional
Yellow = Depends on Setup

Here are all the Materials you'll Be working with for Custom Modular cables:

16 AWG GPT 60V 85°C Wire or Better​

18 AWG GPT 60V 85°C Wire or Better​

4.2mm 5557 Terminal Pins Female​

Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 2x12 (Component End 24 Pin)​

Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 2x5 (PSU End 24 Pin)​

Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 2x7 (PSU End 24 Pin)​

Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 2x9 (PSU End 24 Pin)​

Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 4+4 (Component End EPS)​

Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 2x4 (PSU End EPS 8 Pin)​

Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 6+2 (Component End PCIe)​

Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 2x4 (PSU End PCIe 8 Pin)​

Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 2x3 (PSU End or Component End)​

Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557-R 5557 Male Plug 1x5 (PSU End For Some PSU SATA/Molex)​

3.0 mm Small 5557 Terminal Pins Female ​

Molex 3.0mm Connector Small 5557 Male Plug 2x6 (Nvidia 12 Pin)​

Molex 4 Pin IDE Connector Male Plug (4 Pin Molex)​

Molex IDE Terminal Pins Female​

SATA Terminal Pins ​

Butane ​

Thin Single-walled Heat shrink​

Dual Walled Adhesive lined Heat shrink​

Solder​

Flux​

4mm 7 strand 550lb Paracord​

4mm Expandable Nylon PET ​

Cable Combs​

​

Depending on the Cables you need for your build you'll need to do the math for what you'll need to buy, but as a beginner, I'd recommend getting about 10-15% Extra of certain materials like Wire, Pins, Sleeve, and cable combs. ​

​

Wire Specifications​

​

Let's start with what wire specification is "Best" for a Computer Application. The most important aspect of any wiring project is that safety is our #1 priority. Inside an ATX 2.0 Compliant PC Power Supply Unit there typically are 5 Voltage Rails:​

+3.3V
+5V
+5VSB (5V StandBy)
+12V
-12V

The 3 Main Voltage Rails are:

+3.3V
+5V
+12V

So the highest Voltage that will be running through the Cables you make will Be 12 Volts, ∓ about 5% Maximum in Voltage Ripple depending on the Specific Power Supply's Output filtering. So what all that means is that the Wire you choose needs to be stated as having a Voltage Rating of At least 12.6V on the absolute lowest End. Of course, I always recommend people overbuild their Cables to ensure maximum safety and to ensure you are operating under the Ideal temperature range. Most PSU manufacturers will typically Use 18AWG UL1007 Stranded Wire for their stock cables and while its EXTREME overkill (in a Good Way), If you aren't a Big manufacturer with Millions of dollars to spend on just wire in bulk then it may make more sense to buy 18AWG 60V GPT (General Purpose Thermoplastic) wire with a temperature rating of -40°C to 85°C.

Temperature Ratings and My Testing

The Temperature of your Custom Cables will Probably Never be an issue for Safety if your wire Has a Temperature rating of 85°C or higher. In My testing in a 20°C Ambient Environment ∓0.85°C, a Standardized Testing platform Using a 2080 ti FTW3 and Ryzen 7 3800x, in a Choked-off Hot box Case (4000d in Negative pressure) running under Full Synthetic Load on GPU and CPU the Worst Internal Case temp I Recorded was 37.9°C ΔT over Ambient, and the Cables (tested at the Component End 12v Pin) was 2.6°C ΔT over Case. That brings us to a Worst case Scenario of an Operating Temp of 40.5°C ΔT over Ambient. If we were to assume an Unrealistically Hot Ambient Temp like 37.8°C (100°F), our Cables are coming in at 78.3°C under a 100% System Load in a Choked-off case with zero Fans set as intake. Definitely pushing it, but still Within the 85°C Maximum safe operating Temperature. Also Important to mention You'd Run into the Computer Thermally shutting down well before Your cables exceed 85°C because of the CPU and or GPU exceeding Tjunction Max.

If you're planning to Get into custom cables as a Business then I can't stress enough how important it is For you to ALWAYS run your first 5 Batches of cables through an intensive Stress test For No less than 4 Hours For each testing duration. If you are serious about providing a Good Product that is Safe and Stable for 24/7 Operation you will need to also Re-run the Entire Testing suite every time you have a Wire or Terminal Pin Supplier Change. This is to First Ensure that the wire or pins meet the specifications and are safe for a PC Use case/ Environment, and Second to Ensure the Manufacturer's Spec Is Validated and Holds up to their Claims.

 

[Vamp_Studios]

Where Do I Buy These Materials?

Now if you're new to this and wondering "where do I buy all these supplies?" it can depend on where you live but I'll list some global Manufacturers off Ali-Express I use. Links to those Suppliers here:

Red = Required
Orange = Optional
Yellow = Required But Depends on Setup


Pins:
USD 3.60 300pcs 4.2mm 5557 Female Terminal Pins
USD 4.05 300pcs 4.2mm 5557 Male Terminal Pins
USD 3.51 400pcs 3.0 Small 5557 Female Terminal Pins
USD 5.22 300pcs SATA Terminal Pins
USD 4.68 300pcs 4 Pin Molex IDE Terminal Pins

Plugs:
USD 4.50 30pcs Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 2x5
USD 5.40 30pcs Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 2x7
USD 6.30 30pcs Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 2x9
USD 7.20 30pcs Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 2x12
USD 3.60 30pcs Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 8 Pin EPS
USD 4.05 30pcs Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 8 Pin PCIe
USD 4.05 50pcs Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 6 Pin PCIe
USD 6.30 50pcs Molex 3.0mm Connector Small 5557 Male Plug 2x6 Pin (NVidia 12 pin)
USD 1.98 10pcs Molex 4.2mm Line Connector 5557 R Male Plug 5 Pin
USD 4.05 50pcs SATA Pin-Type Power Connector
USD 5.13 30pcs SATA In-Line Power Connector (90 Cap)
USD 5.13 30pcs SATA In-Line Power Connector (180 Cap)
USD 4.32 50pcs Molex 4.2mm IDE Connector 5557 Male Plug
USD 4.50 30pcs Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 4+4 Pin EPS
USD 4.05 30pcs Molex 4.2mm Connector 5557 Male Plug 6+2 Pin PCIe

Cable Sleeving Stores
MDPC-X: https://www.cable-sleeving.com/
MAINFrame Customs: https://mainframecustom.com/
ParacordPlanet: https://www.paracordplanet.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmouZBhDSARIsALYcoupBxc7DWWVlyBHDSTDIvx6TpcaRwFoZQgDYPYBIJwtqzi_IpNscaU8aAo9gEALw_wcB
USA Wire Supplier That I use: https://www.remingtonindustries.com/

The Cable-Making Process

If you have Fingers that are Sensitive to Heat then prepare to Feel the Burns! So the process of making cables depends on the Sleeving material you've chosen but for starters, we'll talk about Paracord first as it is typically more affordable and easier to work with. Most 550lbs Paracord includes a 7 strand Core meaning the "Sleeve" is not hollow. That means you'll have to (in most cases) "Gut" the paracord before you can inch it onto the Wire. Thankfully that is very Simple to do, just a little tedious and time-consuming. Let's Walk Through the Process one step at a time with some visuals.

Step 1: Measure the longest length with a piece of wire in the desired Case with the whole PC built (minus the cables). Take that piece of wire and measure against a ruler. Then add about 5% Extra length. The reason why you should add extra length will Become obvious later, Just Trust me.

Step 2: Cut Lengths of wire to the length you just measured. If making a 24-pin cable cut 23 or 24 wires (Depending on if you want a Dummy wire in the blank).

Step 3: Strip one end of each wire and make sure you only strip off 4mm of insulation. No more, No less. Make sure that you strip the Same 4mm length for every wire.

Step 4: Crimp a 4.2mm 5557 Female Terminal Pin onto each wire making sure that the wire's insulation is not going into the wire contact crimp.


There is a very easy and Efficient way to crimp your pins onto the wire quickly. The technique is very simple and is shown in this video:

Step 5: Measure a strand of paracord next to your wire and add about 5% Extra length then cut the Paracord and Gut it of the 7-strand core if applicable.

Step 6: Inch the paracord Sleeve onto the Wire past Points 1 and 2 until it reaches right before Point 3 as shown here:

Step 7: Melt the paracord until it Reaches the center of Point 2, then Pinch and twist the Melted Paracord to bind it to the Pin. Video for demonstration:

The end result should look like this:

Step 8: Repeat Steps 5-7 for each wire.

Step 9: Insert the Wires through the cable combs and into the Component end plug and then Plug it into the Corresponding component. Then route the end of the cable that still doesn't have any Pins or a Plug Back to the PSU and Cut the excess length off from the wires so that it's the perfect length. Most likely no 2 wires will be the same length hence why we just added 5% extra length in Step 1.

Step 10: For cables that have Double wires Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for the PSU end wires being sure to crimp 2 wires into 1 Pin for making double wires. For cables with a Split wire Follow the Exert from this Video Linked Here:

Step 11: Repeat Steps 6 and 7 for the PSU end of the wires and then Insert each pin into the plug Being Careful to Follow the Pinout diagram you made from the stock cables.

Step 12: Unplug the Cable from the component then Plug it into a Power supply Tester and then test the cable(s). In order to turn the PSU tester on you must Connect a Compatible 24-pin cable and Then it will power on when the PSU is switched on at the back.

If all has gone well you now should have Cables that are custom Lengths and look very pretty. It goes without saying that this is of course all cosmetic there will be no improvement in air flow as stock cables are not Restrictive enough to Block airflow.

 

[Overtek]

Good guide, very detailed. Well done.

Those wire crimps though, if you're doing this regularly for others, and you haven't already, I would suggest, if you can, investing in something a little better. It will make your crimps more reliable, easier and take you far less time.

A very quick video of the two I use for your reference



If your interested in the crimp machine, feel free to message me, more than happy to share information on that as well.

 

[Vamp_Studios]

Good guide, very detailed. Well done.

Those wire crimps though, if you're doing this regularly for others, and you haven't already, I would suggest, if you can, investing in something a little better. It will make your crimps more reliable, easier and take you far less time.

A very quick video of the two I use for your reference



If your interested in the crimp machine, feel free to message me, more than happy to share information on that as well.

Excellent Options for Those who can afford them. We Appreciate your insight!

 

[Overtek]

Excellent Options for Those who can afford them. We Appreciate your insight!

Not trying to knock what your doing. Just if your doing a lot it would be worth the investment. The hand crimps I bought in 2016 and are still on original die were 180GBP back then. I kinda questioned my sanity at the time, but it soon made sense.

Then went full bonkers a year or 2 later and bought the crimp machine you saw, an automated wire cut and strip machine and a wire reel feeder for that. Yet still all 3 were less than a pair of hand crimps I had to consider for a fine 2mm pitch pin at the start of the year.

Only wanted a hand tool as they could not be bodged due to small size and I would not be doing that many at a time. Insane 1,600GBP before any tax. So had a new applicator made for the pin crimp machine about 1/7 to 1/8 the cost of hand crimps. Somethings just make 0 sense.

 

[Vamp_Studios]

Not trying to knock what your doing. Just if your doing a lot it would be worth the investment. The hand crimps I bought in 2016 and are still on original die were 180GBP back then. I kinda questioned my sanity at the time, but it soon made sense.

Then went full bonkers a year or 2 later and bought the crimp machine you saw, an automated wire cut and strip machine and a wire reel feeder for that. Yet still all 3 were less than a pair of hand crimps I had to consider for a fine 2mm pitch pin at the start of the year.

Only wanted a hand tool as they could not be bodged due to small size and I would not be doing that many at a time. Insane 1,600GBP before any tax. So had a new applicator made for the pin crimp machine about 1/7 to 1/8 the cost of hand crimps. Somethings just make 0 sense.

I know you are not trying to knock me. I Sincerely appreciate your Insight. I already Knew about the Genuine Molex Crimper But didn't know about the Auto Crimping Machine, and thought it was Very Interesting (even if it isn't a Justifiable expense At my size right now). One thing about the Crimpers I Used in the Demo Video is that they are Very accessible and affordable For beginners. The focus of this thread is More to Guide Beginners who may make 1 Kit of cables once every system. As for my Workflow, I actually (Over The past 6 years of doing this) have gotten very quick with this style of Crimpers and Rarely Get a bad Crimp. Even though the learning curve is A little steep with this style of crimpers, once you get used to them they are great Bang for the Buck. As to the reliability, I'm not sure if I got Lucky and bought a from a Good OEM because the Crimpers you saw me using in the Demo Video is the ONLY pair I've ever owned. They were Bought for me As a gift for Christmas When I was 17. Either way I Still absolutely appreciate you for Engaging with this thread and informing Me on the Auto Crimping machine it's genuinely Very Interesting (even if I can't afford it yet).

 

[liomsv]

Hi.
I am trying to make my own custom cables. But I have got one concern. Terminals manually crimped by myself are very easy to pull out. Especially comparing to original cables.
I can pull out a wire from housing and terminal stays in the housing.
I bought terminals on aliexpress and have a simple not-molex crimping tool.
What do you think about it? Do you check your terminals somehow? Do you have any advices how to improve it?

 

[Phuncz]

I bought terminals on aliexpress and have a simple not-molex crimping tool.
What do you think about it?

The problem is that with cheap replicas or just cheap tools is that you are likely to end up with crappy quality.
But with crimping you also need to be mindful of correct usage. Certain wire thickness (gauge or mm²) is required for certain terminals. And for certain power demands as well.

About ten years ago, if not longer, I bought a set of crimping tools, terminals and sleeving from https://www.cable-sleeving.com/ (this used to be MDPC-X), following the guides on there to learn how to do it. As it didn't magically make me good at it by buying the quality stuff, but it made sure I wouldn't be having an issue with the quality of the tools and materials as well.

 

[liomsv]

Thanks for your advice @Phuncz.
I've seen MDPC-X company and their goods. But the price for the tool plus delivery is quite expensive. And I've found this tools comparing article with some concerns that MDPC-X tool is worth that.
So I've decided to try Iwiss (iCrimp) SN-58B tool first. And it turned out to be good enough for me. Now I need much more force to pull a pin out.