Log Velka 7 watercooled 240mm 3060ti

FiftyFifty

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May 20, 2021
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Hi.

This is my new project I am working on. Haven't really had much time lately but trying to doing little by little everyday.
Will try to update as much as possible, still a long waaaay to go. :)

HARDWARE
  • Case: Velka 7 2.0
  • Mobo: Asus B560i
  • CPU: Intel Core 5 11400
  • CPU Block: Alphacool XPX 1U Waterblock
  • GPU: Gigabyte 3060ti Eagle OC
  • GPU Block: Bykski Waterblock + Custom 5mm acetal top
  • SSD: WD SN750 1TB + Crucial P2 1TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF750
  • RAM: Corsair LPX 2x8GB 3200 CL16
  • Radiator: XSPC TX240
  • Fans: 2 x Noctua A12x15 Chromax
  • Riser: Louqe Cobalt Gen4+ PCI-e Riser
  • Controller: Aquacomputer QUADRO
  • Pump: Laing DDC 3.2 PWM + EK DDC Heatsink
  • Tube: Alphacool EPDM 13/10
TODO
  • Cut hole for motherboard
  • Fit the PSU with new internal power cable
  • Finish the GPU top plate
  • Mount the radiator
  • Mount DDC pump
  • Custom PSU cables
  • Spray painting the radiator black
  • Maybe need new mount for DP/HDMI cables
  • Probably need to sand down the fans
  • Probably a lot of other things along the way 😅

Here is how the radiator will end up.


Front view.


Had to move the GPU up. 3D printed bracket i found in the Velka thread (thanks to whoever made it).


This is the radiator sanded down to make as much space as possible. Gonna spraypaint it black when finised.


New mount idea for PSU.


Have to rotate the PSU to fit the GPU.
 
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morj

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Feb 11, 2020
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Nice project, @FiftyFifty will be following it with great interest.

Do you mind sharing the details on the custom 5mm acetal top for the Bykski waterblock? Do you have more photos or maybe a 3D model? Where are the in/out ports?
 
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FiftyFifty

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May 20, 2021
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Nice project, @FiftyFifty will be following it with great interest.

Do you mind sharing the details on the custom 5mm acetal top for the Bykski waterblock? Do you have more photos or maybe a 3D model? Where are the in/out ports?
Hi and thanks. Will probably have time to finish it in the next couple days, will update with pictures when done.
 
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FiftyFifty

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May 20, 2021
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GPU top plate done. Original was 12mm and this is 5mm, will have to see if lower screws will be needed or not.





 
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morj

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GPU top plate done. Original was 12mm and this is 5mm, will have to see if lower screws will be needed or not.

Looks good! The other side is machined, right? Can you share some photos of it?
 

Valantar

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Jan 20, 2018
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Looks good! Is the radiator ground down so that the fans sit flush to the fins as well? That will probably severely drop its performance (much larger effective dead zone than if it's spaced out a few mm) + increase turbulence noise compared to stock behaviour, but still really impressive stuff. Looking forward to seeing the continuation of this :) Great work so far!
 

FiftyFifty

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May 20, 2021
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Looks good! The other side is machined, right? Can you share some photos of it?

Looks good! Is the radiator ground down so that the fans sit flush to the fins as well? That will probably severely drop its performance (much larger effective dead zone than if it's spaced out a few mm) + increase turbulence noise compared to stock behaviour, but still really impressive stuff. Looking forward to seeing the continuation of this :) Great work so far!

Just finised mounting the radiator and it looks like I will not have to ground down the fan side, there is about 5mm space between fan and GPU.

Will post pictures later today. 😊
 
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Valantar

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Jan 20, 2018
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Radiator is now mounted with custom bracket.


5mm space between fans and GPU, no need sanding down the fans.


Here is the backside of the GPU top.
Wow, that is a surprisingly simple piece of routing. What does the cold plate look like. Also, the radiator looks great when mounted. Well done!
 
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FiftyFifty

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May 20, 2021
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Wow, that is a surprisingly simple piece of routing. What does the cold plate look like. Also, the radiator looks great when mounted. Well done!



There is a small route on the left I ignored, figured for such a small and simple loop the flow rate will be fine since I will be running a DDC pump.
 

Valantar

Shrink Ray Wielder
Jan 20, 2018
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There is a small route on the left I ignored, figured for such a small and simple loop the flow rate will be fine since I will be running a DDC pump.
Ah, I see. You'll have to watch your VRM temperatures then, given that they're not getting any liquid flow across them. You might also consider filling up/blocking off that channel with something - having stagnant fluid sit there atop hot components is likely not good for growth and/or corrosion long term. Still, really interesting work! What material is that - some form of POM/Acetal? And did you route it yourself or have it done elsewhere?
 
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FiftyFifty

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May 20, 2021
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Ah, I see. You'll have to watch your VRM temperatures then, given that they're not getting any liquid flow across them. You might also consider filling up/blocking off that channel with something - having stagnant fluid sit there atop hot components is likely not good for growth and/or corrosion long term. Still, really interesting work! What material is that - some form of POM/Acetal? And did you route it yourself or have it done elsewhere?
Thanks for the heads up, will definitely monitor temps when testing everything out and maybe route a small channel that way.

It's 5mm acetal all done by hand with a dremel/drill.
 
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FiftyFifty

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May 20, 2021
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Finally found some time to do some work. Here is the radiator painted, turned out really nice :)


Drilled out holes to mount the PSU. Had to make a bracket and move the DP/HDMI adapters.
Motherboard IO will not fit so made the appropriate size cut out.
 
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duynguyenle

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Aug 20, 2019
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Ah, I see. You'll have to watch your VRM temperatures then, given that they're not getting any liquid flow across them. You might also consider filling up/blocking off that channel with something - having stagnant fluid sit there atop hot components is likely not good for growth and/or corrosion long term. Still, really interesting work! What material is that - some form of POM/Acetal? And did you route it yourself or have it done elsewhere?

Sorry I think I am clearly missing the picture here (or mis-interpreting it), but it clearly looks like the inlet splits off and cools the VRM to the left side before joining back up to the primary stream which then goes to the GPU fins. Am I fundamentally misunderstanding how this waterblock works?
 

FiftyFifty

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Sorry I think I am clearly missing the picture here (or mis-interpreting it), but it clearly looks like the inlet splits off and cools the VRM to the left side before joining back up to the primary stream which then goes to the GPU fins. Am I fundamentally misunderstanding how this waterblock works?
You are correct thats how it works.
 

Valantar

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Jan 20, 2018
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Sorry I think I am clearly missing the picture here (or mis-interpreting it), but it clearly looks like the inlet splits off and cools the VRM to the left side before joining back up to the primary stream which then goes to the GPU fins. Am I fundamentally misunderstanding how this waterblock works?
No, but that split is dependent on a channel in the front acrylic, which is not present in their custom top.


Sorry for my crappy outlines, that cut-out portion is obviously not included in the flow path in either scenario.
 
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duynguyenle

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Aug 20, 2019
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Oh I see, I didn't realise the custom plate doesn't have that portion. Looks like it could potentially be added back in though.

In any case, isn't it still physically connected to the rest of the block? Looks like the whole block is a single billet, the VRM pass is not a separate portion. In that case, I wouldn't expect any significant impact on temperatures to be honest. Assuming it's a block of nickel-plated copper (though some waterblocks might be brass), the temperature gradient I think will be in the region of a handful of degrees at most (compared to the stock acrylic top with the flow channel).
 

FiftyFifty

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May 20, 2021
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Oh I see, I didn't realise the custom plate doesn't have that portion. Looks like it could potentially be added back in though.

In any case, isn't it still physically connected to the rest of the block? Looks like the whole block is a single billet, the VRM pass is not a separate portion. In that case, I wouldn't expect any significant impact on temperatures to be honest. Assuming it's a block of nickel-plated copper (though some waterblocks might be brass), the temperature gradient I think will be in the region of a handful of degrees at most (compared to the stock acrylic top with the flow channel).
Yeah its a copper block. I doubt there will be any problems with temperatures as it's only a 3060ti.