S4MAX: Brickless S4M w/ 3090 FE and R9 5950x - 800W, 5l, water cooled

petricor

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What’s that heatsink front panel on the S4M?
It's an own design: R1 has been for my previous build (here) and is tried-and-tested; I have uploaded the STP file in the resources section here. The original build log contains photos of the machined part and some info re machining.
The one in this thread is R2 with added air intakes to allow for air flow to the PSU (the original one was for a passively cooled PSU layout), but I'm still looking at getting a few design options costed as machining cost for what you see is pretty extreme... I'll share the file once I have a working prototype in my hands! All going a bit slow currently as key components for my build are still not available... if anyone feels like parting from a 3090FE or a 5950x, let me know!
 

MultiDoc

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Feb 2, 2018
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It's an own design: R1 has been for my previous build (here) and is tried-and-tested; I have uploaded the STP file in the resources section here. The original build log contains photos of the machined part and some info re machining.
The one in this thread is R2 with added air intakes to allow for air flow to the PSU (the original one was for a passively cooled PSU layout), but I'm still looking at getting a few design options costed as machining cost for what you see is pretty extreme... I'll share the file once I have a working prototype in my hands! All going a bit slow currently as key components for my build are still not available... if anyone feels like parting from a 3090FE or a 5950x, let me know!
I’ll message you now, I don’t have a 5950x lying around but I do have a 3950x if that’s of any help
 
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morj

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Being more-or-less back in real-time, today's post will be the longest in a series of already long posts:
Modding an 800W 1U server PSU to 195mm length - and this time, with a working result!

...

Job done! 800W, ready to go!

Hey! I'm trying to replicate your mod and I wonder if your PWS-804P-1R spins the fan even when it's just plugged to the mains (without powering on the pico PSU) and whether the fan spoofing resolves that (because of lower min PWM speed of the replacement fan for example)?
 

petricor

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Hey! I'm trying to replicate your mod and I wonder if your PWS-804P-1R spins the fan even when it's just plugged to the mains (without powering on the pico PSU) and whether the fan spoofing resolves that (because of lower min PWM speed of the replacement fan for example)?
Hi there, yes, the fan spins in standby - very slow and barely audible though. There is no apparent RPM check/ feedback in standby so the spoofing does not influence the behaviour. Of course, when using a pulse generator to simulate the fan feedback, you may as well drive the fan from a different controller (motherboard fan header...) and keep it off in standby.
 
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Moustache

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Mar 23, 2021
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Petricor, this build is wild, massive props to you. you have covered a wide range of problems and overcome them each in turn, it's pretty inspirational stuff.

Also, as someone about to start messing with the same mobo in a confined setting, your progress on cooling is fascinating. I found this video to be pretty informative, as he provides VRM/MOSFET heat output estimates for various configurations. unfortunately there is not much provided on the SB.
 

petricor

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Ladies, Gents, announcing operation Thin Air:
As my impatience takes over I will from now onwards and until further notice declare this a speculative build and simply try to work around the absence of any reasonably priced GPU and CPU which may or may not materialise.

Instead, I have resorted to all sorts of questionable sources substituting the real deal with pixels and modelled the hell out of the problem in 3D to come up with a plan that would allow me to progress things without core components to hand and locking myself in to a single option for the GPU.

Key features will be
  • a RTX 3080 FE (safe!), possibly a 3080TI FE (speculative!) or 3090 FE (🔥exciting!), if ever available in this version of the universe,
  • a R9 5950X - hopefully manifesting sooner than later,
and all of that still squeezed into the same brickless 5l enclosure and using the same board/PSU/radiator/pump config. I still consider this to be the same build as I have never really finished the 2080ti iteration properly. It has been working, but lacked the finishing touch with some custom parts I'd want to have in place to call it a job done.

Also, I now want to sort out the chipset cooling properly - as reported, I have been noting serious frame drops (not really affecting benchmarks but impossible to ignore in VR) when hitting the build at full tilt in HL Alyx, always coinciding with the X570 scratching the ceiling at 102C. That’s clearly way north of healthy and requiring a configuration change, as sketched and debated in earlier posts. Reviewing quotes for machining I have received in the meanwhile (anyone with a Pocket CNC out there who wants to donate a few parts to the cause?), I'll first give it a try with some COTS parts from Alibaba.
The custom chipset cooling solution I have designed would set me back around USD 250 in machining cost, so I have demoted that to Plan B - I can still pull it out of the hat in case readily available parts wouldn’t fit.

Basic layout below:


As you can see, a stripped 3080 FE makes for a really nice fit in the S4M, particularly when compared to my previous layout with a full-length 2080ti.

Now I'm looking at plenty of space over the radiator, allowing to substitute my ultra low profile fan for a 25mm tall NF-A14 3000 Industrial - this, combined with the full fan projection now being free for unobstructed air flow, should easily be able to deal with the 30-60W uplift in TDP compared to my old 2080ti layout:

Old fan...


...vs new:


I have no intention of spinning-up the fan anywhere near to its full potential (and assume that it will run at similar noise levels as a “normal” NF-A14 when operating at lower speeds), but it is good to have some extra punch in the back pocket for a possible 3080ti FE or even 3090.

A plan view shows that besides a dramatic uplift in flow volume (166 m³/h for the Prolimatech vs 270 m³/h for the Noctua), static pressure (Prolimatech: 0.9mm H₂O vs Noctua: 10.5mm (!) H₂O), I'll effectively get 25% larger clear fan cross section:
Old...



...and new.

Also you will notice that a 3080 will leave significantly more air space free over the motherboard, so I should finally be able to move away from ULP RAM with its severe frequency restrictions, and use a full height 3600+ MHz kit allowing me to drive the Infinity Fabric to its full potential.

That said, and most interestingly, even a 3090 would fit provided I dare to solder the power feed directly onto the GPU:



Soldering on to that rather rare and expensive piece would be a requirement as the space between the non-optional full height RAM (a 5950X with throttled Infinity Fabric would be a bit pathetic...) and the 12-pin connector on a 3090 does not really allow for anything delivering power to be plugged-in to it:


Should a 3080TI happen, it would be my preferred choice as the uplift in performance of a 3090 may shrink to just about 5%, saving a ton of cash on VRAM I would never use and making for a MUCH neater fit inside my S4M, provided the TI sticks to the 3080's PCB footprint.

So - how can I plan for three possible GPU options? The answer is an agnostic water block, and my well-tuned crystal ball, telling me that a 3080 TI FE will essentially be a fully populated 3080 FE layout:


Add components in the red squares and insert a die with more CUDA and Tensor cores enabled, and you should be looking exactly at the 12gig spec that is being rumoured recently. So, using a water block with space for those added VRMs, RAM chips and chokes in red would suggest that compatibility may be likely.

I have been eyeballing the EK-Quantum Vector RTX 30x0's for quite some time after a really good experience of modding the EK Vector RE for my 2080ti. Ultimately, though, I have chosen the Corsair Hydro X FE despite the questionable reputation that earlier HydroX's developed for leakages.

Reviewing a few teardown videos, it appears to have a reasonably slim cross section, the smallest metal core of all available 30x0 blocks (unlike the EK, not projecting over the PCB anywhere), and a geometry promising to work with different versions of the 30x0 FE (note the grooves for VRMs and chokes being of equal length on both sides):


source: Corsair instruction video

The terminal module coming with the Hydro-X is completely useless for my purposes, but any block I would choose would require me to design a custom module anyway, so that's something I have to tackle regardless.

What really made the Corsair Hydro X 3080 for me though is that the metal core appears to fit both onto a 3080 and 3090: Provided I design a terminal module that stays clear of the PCB plane, I should be able to get a cooling solution that is agnostic with re to which one I can ultimately get my hands on, and provided my hypothesis on the 3080ti pans out, I may be able to ultimately choose between 3 GPUs to complete my build.

If you compare the central mounting holes and the projecting components on the GPUs top sides required to make contact with Corsair block, you'll note that the layout of the 3080 and 3090 are identical in that regard- and that the Corsair block should not be affected by any of the layout differences provided a custom terminal block is designed to stay clear of the 3090's PCB layer:

When looking at the reflected Corsair block, the keep out zones, contact zones and mounting points (with one exception) appear to be working for...


...a 3080(TI)...


...as well as for a 3090.

A quick sketch of a terminal module that could work with both a 3080 and 3090 below - not fully worked out yet (based it on EK mounting hole spacing for the time being), but should be close enough to work as a place holder:

That's it with a 3080(TI)...


...and here with a 3090.

Of course, the corsair block will need to get modded heavily: Key intervention will be reducing the vertical cross section of the GPU/Block combo by about 2.5mm for it to fit inside the case by completely stripping it down to the functional components and potentially even shaving off some of the plexiglass cover - and this time, unlike my previous iteration with a 2080ti, the ambition is to allow for enough space for a GPU backplate.

Looking at the void between naked GPU and the other components on the board, I am pretty confident that this will be possible - plus having some more space when compared to the 2080ti build to potentially even fit in a slighly more voluminous PCIE4.0 riser cable:




Orders for the water block and fan are out - so I should be able to verify the fit and my hypothesis about an "agnostic" block soon!

Hope that keeps me entertained for long enough to distract me from breaking in to an Nvidia warehouse...
In the meanwhile, my old S4M will happily keep mining Ether to contribute to raising my GPU budget ;)
 
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CubanLegend

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wow this is Amazing, i KNEW you had a 5950x and 30x0 build in mind! ;) I cant wait to see this come to fruition! Also a question, if I lets say.. wanted to pay you outright for an identical build like this, how much would one have to pay you (for parts and labor)? I'm curious.. since, in the future.. If i ever upgrade from my current build (my unique #193 S4M-c Brickless), I'd probably want something like your build, so I'm trying to figure out if my budget allows for it. :) (feel free to PM me for privacy if you like)
 

petricor

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How do you reckon a dual 92mm would stand in comparison to the 140mm?
It would perform worse at about 85% of a single 140mm. A dual 92mm gives you about 12,700 mm2 of clear cross section for air flow under the fans (accounting for two fan hubs), vs a single 140mm having a clear cross section of ~15,100 mm2.
 
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petricor

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wow this is Amazing, i KNEW you had a 5950x and 30x0 build in mind! ;) I cant wait to see this come to fruition! Also a question, if I lets say.. wanted to pay you outright for an identical build like this, how much would one have to pay you (for parts and labor)? I'm curious.. since, in the future.. If i ever upgrade from my current build (my unique #193 S4M-c Brickless), I'd probably want something like your build, so I'm trying to figure out if my budget allows for it. :) (feel free to PM me for privacy if you like)
That’s a good question indeed: I haven’t kept a tab on expenditure but will add that up out of sheer interest!
Looking at the countless hours I have spent it is probably completely unfeasible as a commercial project, even assuming that most of the time went into research- you’d probably have to double the hardware cost and then look at issues like import duties etc on top of it all when shipping it across the globe. Plus, I’m pretty sure that selling a modded AC PSU is not a good idea...
But in general, the idea of building another one is intriguing as it would have to be different: The EK Annihilator I use for the CPU is not available anymore and impossible to source, so it would have to be a modded server block...
 
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Elaman

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One the one hand, S4MAX sort of calls for a 3090. Plus the 3090's, by virtue of the much higher price, have remained slightly longer time in stock in my observation.
Either way I am happy to know that the legend of Petricor is alive and well. And I am ordering batches of popcorn.
 
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petricor

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OK, looks like this is happening:

tl;dr:

  1. The Corsair block has arrived - it is ridiculously SFF-able and with a bit of disassembly indeed compatible with both a 3080 and 3090 FE - and hardly requiring any modifications. More below!

  2. The 5950x is in the post! Finally found reasonably priced stock! Major box ticked...

  3. ...and I have ordered bits and pieces for a new take on cooling the x570 - that will require a little more design though and form part of a separate update

So, latest shipment form the interwebs:

Left, my airflow upgrade in the shape of a NH-A14 Industrial - right, my card agnostic water block hypothesis - promising so far!


A quick look at the Noctua before stashing it away - it is fairly predictable and will not need a lot of tinkering with so will go in last.


Unlike the "consumer" versions, it only comes with a pack of screws - but then, typical Noctua accessories such as low noise adapters are besides the point when opting for a performance model.


Way more exciting is this piece here - the incredibly compact Corsair Hydro X 3080 FE. the little filler block right of the cooler shows the size comparison to a full length card footprint... very promising!


...and turning it around it gets better: The actual nickel-copper-block doing the work is tiny and really promises to fully leverage the compact layout of the 30x0 FE PCBs.

Further in the box:

A black metal backplate, some G1/4 plugs, mounting screws and a bit of mandatory literature.


Pleasant surprise - the design is rock solid: Despite its plasticky looks, the shroud is an extruded and rather heavy piece of coated metal - pretty good value given that it's a whopping 100 pounds cheaper than its EK counterpart!


But let's move on before developing too much of an attachment to it: Time to rip it apart!

The shroud is fixed to the copper block using four M3 H2.0 screws - the one I'm starting with here is none of them which I am about to find out.


Whilst the entire water block is incredibly solid, I am not surprised to hear reports about leakages: To my great surprise, not all screws visible here are properly tightened... not a problem in my case as I'm taking everything apart anyway, but a bit of a worry for anyone intending to use it out-of-the box.

When ridding the block of the shroud, what remains is an incredibly compact cooling component, and by the looks of it I can even retain the RGB strip for the purpose of my build:


The thickness of the naked block is a mere 17mm at its highest point, still with the potential to shave off some of the central protrusion on the plexiglass cover if need be...


...and with the backplate and a 1.5 mm spacer accounting for the PCB added, I get to a 22mm overall package height which should neatly fit within the vertical clearance available in my build without any onerous modifications to the block!


The terminal module coming with the Corsair is 25mm wide...


...and 11mm tall, this will need to be replaced by a custom part anyway to work with my build.

Interestingly though, it is staying completely clear of the PCB, so with fittings pointing upwards from the GPU, the block should fit on both a 3080 and 3090 FE without any modifications - simply by omitting one of the screws coming with it.


The port module is held together by four M2 T6 screws...

...and again, we are looking at an incredibly solid build where even the purely decorative cladding to the terminal module is made of die-cast metal - gives it a proper weapon-grade feel!


But again, also on the upper side of the block, sloppy assembly: Some of the hex screws pressing the plexiglass block to the nickel-copper block are not tightened and actually sitting loose - incredibly lazy and a really unnecessary leakage risk, particularly given the attention to detail and material invested into the design.

Port spacing is 25 mm - not relevant for my build...


...but the 48mm spacing of the M4 screws connecting the terminal module to the body is: That's different from the 58 mm of EK blocks, and the spacing I will have to design my terminal module to.


The overall width of the block is 120mm, that's 95mm excluding the terminal.


Removing the three screws holding the terminal module (for reasons only Corsair knows, the centre screw is a M3, whilst the peripheral ones are M4) reveals another key difference to EK terminals...


...which is the grooves for the terminal's o-rings being machined into the plexiglass cover of the block, not into the terminal.




This is great news, actually, as it will make designing a custom terminal module much easier - a flat surface with a bunch of screw holes makes for a much lower risk interface; working out the precise dimensions of the o-ring grooves would have been much trickier and a detail prone to leak if off by even a fraction of a millimetre.

A direct comparison to the EK terminals I have been using with my EK/2080ti setup shows the differences:


The EK terminal is chunkier, has larger hole spacing to accomodate for larger flow channels, and the o-ring grooves are cut into the terminal block.


Interestingly though, as you can see in the photo above, the EK's larger flow channels cannot result in better performance (or less flow resistance) as not matching the cross section of the G1/4 bore: So the more compact Corsair terminal would appear to be the more efficient solution.

With this information I can tackle the next steps: Reproducing the water block in 3D, designing a custom port module, and working out the details of the chipset cooling.
More to come soon!
 
Last edited:

Valantar

Shrink Ray Wielder
Jan 20, 2018
2,201
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OK, looks like this is happening:

tl;dr:

  1. The Corsair block has arrived - it is ridiculously SFF-able and with a bit of disassembly indeed compatible with both a 3080 and 3090 FE - and hardly requiring any modifications. More below!

  2. The 5950x is in the post! Finally found reasonably priced stock! Major box ticked...

  3. ...and I have ordered bits and pieces for a new take on cooling the x570 - that will require a little more design though and form part of a separate update

So, latest shipment form the interwebs:

Left, my airflow upgrade in the shape of a NH-A14 Industrial - right, my card agnostic water block hypothesis - promising so far!


A quick look at the Noctua before stashing it away - it is fairly predictable and will not need a lot of tinkering with so will go in last.


Unlike the "consumer" versions, it only comes with a pack of screws - but then, typical Noctua accessories such as low noise adapters are besides the point when opting for a performance model.


Way more exciting is this piece here - the incredibly compact Corsair Hydro X 3080 FE. the little filler block right of the cooler shows the size comparison to a full length card footprint... very promising!


...and turning it around it gets better: The actual nickel-copper-block doing the work is tiny and really promises to fully leverage the compact layout of the 30x0 FE PCBs.

Further in the box:

A black metal backplate, some G1/4 plugs, mounting screws and a bit of mandatory literature.


Pleasant surprise - the design is rock solid: Despite its plasticky looks, the shroud is an extruded and rather heavy piece of coated metal - pretty good value given that it's a whopping 100 pounds cheaper than its EK counterpart!


But let's move on before developing too much of an attachment to it: Time to rip it apart!

The shroud is fixed to the copper block using four M3 H2.0 screws - the one I'm starting with here is none of them which I am about to find out.


Whilst the entire water block is incredibly solid, I am not surprised to hear reports about leakages: To my great surprise, not all screws visible here are properly tightened... not a problem in my case as I'm taking everything apart anyway, but a bit of a worry for anyone intending to use it out-of-the box.

When ridding the block of the shroud, what remains is an incredibly compact cooling component, and by the looks of it I can even retain the RGB strip for the purpose of my build:


The thickness of the naked block is a mere 17mm at its highest point, still with the potential to shave off some of the central protrusion on the plexiglass cover if need be...


...and with the backplate and a 1.5 mm spacer accounting for the PCB added, I get to a 22mm overall package height which should neatly fit within the vertical clearance available in my build without any onerous modifications to the block!


The terminal module coming with the Corsair is 25mm wide...


...and 11mm tall, this will need to be replaced by a custom part anyway to work with my build.

Interestingly though, it is staying completely clear of the PCB, so with fittings pointing upwards from the GPU, the block should fit on both a 3080 and 3090 FE without any modifications - simply by omitting one of the screws coming with it.


The port module is held together by four M2 T6 screws...

...and again, we are looking at an incredibly solid build where even the purely decorative cladding to the terminal module is made of die-cast metal - gives it a proper weapon-grade feel!


But again, also on the upper side of the block, sloppy assembly: Some of the hex screws pressing the plexiglass block to the nickel-copper block are not tightened and actually sitting loose - incredibly lazy and a really unnecessary leakage risk, particularly given the attention to detail and material invested into the design.

Port spacing is 25 mm - not relevant for my build...


...but the 48mm spacing of the M4 screws connecting the terminal module to the body is: That's different from the 58 mm of EK blocks, and the spacing I will have to design my terminal module to.


The overall width of the block is 120mm, that's 95mm excluding the terminal.


Removing the three screws holding the terminal module (for reasons only Corsair knows, the centre screw is a M3, whilst the peripheral ones are M4) reveals another key difference to EK terminals...


...which is the grooves for the terminal's o-rings being machined into the plexiglass cover of the block, not into the terminal.




This is great news, actually, as it will make designing a custom terminal module much easier - a flat surface with a bunch of screw holes makes for a much lower risk interface; working out the precise dimensions of the o-ring grooves would have been much trickier and a detail prone to leak if off by even a fraction of a millimetre.

A direct comparison to the EK terminals I have been using with my EK/2080ti setup shows the differences:


The EK terminal is chunkier, has larger hole spacing to accomodate for larger flow channels, and the o-ring grooves are cut into the terminal block.


Interestingly though, as you can see in the photo above, the EK's larger flow channels cannot result in better performance (or less flow resistance) as not matching the cross section of the G1/4 bore: So the more compact Corsair terminal would appear to be the more efficient solution.

With this information I can tackle the next steps: Reproducing the water block in 3D, designing a custom port module, and working out the details of the chipset cooling.
More to come soon!
Ooh, this is getting exciting again. Looking forward to further updates!
 

Moustache

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Mar 23, 2021
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Really interested to see what you do with the chipset solution, I realised that the A4x10 might not be the best solution under a black ridge with a A12x15.
 
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Valantar

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Jan 20, 2018
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Btw, am I the only one who chuckled a bit at seeing a GPU water block with pre-applied TIM? Seems ... unlikely to be necessary, and likely to just be wiped off by >99% of users.
 
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petricor

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Next episode: More cooling design!

Having modelled the Corsair HydroX in 3D, I can now verify my assumptions on packing and fit - and explain my updated hypothesis on dealing with the chipset:


On the bottom layer of the board, you see the four areas requiring heat transfer: The CPU, the x570 chipset and two banks of VRMs. Whilst in theory the copper fins I have been using should be sufficient to deal with the VRMs, I'll try to integrate them in a combined cooling solution en-par or better compared to the the original ASRock design.

For the chipset, I'll have to re-purpose a CPU cooler as there is no product available OTS, and the plan is to use a heat pipe based solution with a standard 6mm pipe diameter that permits
  • modding the CPU bracket to fit to the mounting hole pattern for the x570 cooler
  • replacing the heat pipes with my own and connect them to a radiator outside of the board's footprint, enabling a clear vetical air flow combining forced air using a small (A4) fan with natural upward convection.
This is how I envisage the basic layout:

  • one 6mm tube collecting heat from the VRM banks, possibly with a copper fin stack right above for added dissipation, linking to a three-channel contact plate over the chipset,
  • two 5mm tubes connecting the chipset to a 40mm radiator with a vertical fan arrangement.
You see the pipes modelled in the length I have actually ordered them - and yes, the 5mm ones are too long (200mm) as I have been impatient and ordering them before verifying the fit. Wonder whether that's a good idea - not entirely sure whether heatpipes work only end-to-end or whether heat transfer can take place at any point along the pipe. May also inform the layout of the VRM pipe with three "bus stops"...


Another challenge potentially requiring a design change will be bending the tubes, particularly the 6mm VRM tube, to the radii required for everything to fit: Unfortunately, all contact blocks I came across have a 6mm pipe design, and component spacing on the board will require me to bend those pipes to a 10mm centre line radius. From what I read, that’s likely going to lead to ruptures- in that case I’ll have to use standard fins for the shorter bank of VRMs.


As my radiator of choice (product link on Alibaba) comes with 5mm holes, I'll have to use 2x5mm pipes to link it to the chipset cool plate - plan is to use 1mm thermal strips to fill the gaps in the chipset block having 6mm channels. Alternatively, I may resort to soldering, but this is tricky as requiring low temperature solder and a very tightly controlled temperature window to avoid exploding heat pipes.
If my VRM collector pipe turns out to be too thick to achieve the bends required, I may revert to 5mm pipes for the VRMs, too.


One layer up, all as before: My modded EK Annihilator block - here shown as a complete loop with a placeholder terminal to connect to the GPU.
It features two placeholder G1/8 extensions that I cannot find anywhere as there is hardly any offer for G1/8 fittings that can match the plethora of stuff available in G1/4 - I may have to come up with something else there. G1/4 is not an option for my build as consuming too much space.


Over the heat pipe block used for the chipset, you see a modded CPU clamp that should work with the mounting pattern on the board - I have modelled after the actual piece you see here (it's in the post), and with a bit of cutting, drilling and grinding it should come out like this:



Next up in the stack is the plexiglass block of the Corsair cooler - you see how it is positioned right on top of the EK Annihilator.

This allows to close the water loop (note that the terminal adapter is still a placeholder using EK hole spacing - still subject to redesign)...


...and to check for clashes:
There are none! So essentially that means that with a 3080/3080TI FE, I can use a disassembled, but unmodded Corsair block for what appears to be a comfortable fit!


Here you can see where the terminal block's o-rings don't line up with the Corsair block - its still a design I did for my old EK/2080ti setup.

Next comes the Nickel-Copper block...


...and my 3080 FE placeholder.


Thanks to PCI PCB thicknesses being standardised (1.55mm), I can now precisely assess the overall build dimensions taking "real" measurements from the Corsair block, and with the backplate applied...


...I get exactly to the 22mm I have expected...



...even giving me 1mm clear between case lid and backplate for added tolerance. I may want to lift up the GPU assembly though to touch the case to allow for added heat transfer from the backplate.

One HDMI and one Displayport remain clear and accessible, a second Diplayport should become usable with a bit of modding to the fan - that's all I need for this build, assuming that I'll re-route one DP to the board's thunderbolt interface.


That should all work out - so, how about the 3090?

Apart from the main challenge identified already, which is getting power to it (predictably requiring soldering it straight onto the card), the card would fit, but the block would need to sit slightly further towards the case's rear, resulting in a clash with the network module on the motherboard:


This is non-critical and can be addressed though by milling a notch into the Corsair's plexiglass block - very similar to my mod to the EK Vector 2080ti used for a previous stage of this build.

The terminal module will require some tinkering - as the 3090 needs to sit further to the rear of the case compared to the 3080, but the position of the terminal module is constrained by the space between CPU block and RAM, I’m looking at a gap between block and terminal should I want to use the part sketched for the 3080...

...where the ultimate challenge would be to come up with something that can work for both a 3080 and 3090 configuration. Reason for trying to keep the terminal module card-agnostic is to use the one-month lead in for machining and shipping from China for GPU hunting- and machining two terminals would be rather pricey as one off parts come at a premium. Perhaps I can use the module coming with the Corsair block to do the trick here.

The 3080 backplate appears to fit onto the 3090 despite the PCB sticking out on two sides: Key function of the backplate in my build is acting as a spacer between the PCB and the case, and ideally also to transferring some heat to it - this should all work with a 3090, too.


Why I ultimately may opt for a 3080 TI though (should it happen) is this situation here: the gap between GPU assembly and board components on the PCI connector side.

Exactly where I have my clash, I'd need to fit through the PCIe cable - this has already been the bottle neck of my last iteration with a 2080ti.

Whilst I could remove plenty of material from the plexiglass block when sacrificing RGB (not a sacrifice IMO, really...), a 3080 can leave much more breathing space for a cable, and the ambition would be to go for a PCIe 4.0 cable this time: Looking at the cables I got my hands on so far, however, they are much thicker than the amazing, paper-thin HDPlex 3.0 silicon flex cable I have used for my 2080ti setup.
From what I can see, that's not an option for a 30x0 build, though, as I would have to switch the PCIe interface back to 3.0 in the BIOS to support the HDPLEX ultra flat cable. At that point I'd sacrifice speed of my PCIe 4.0 M.2 SSD - which is really the only component taking advantage of it. That's unless I can selectively "downgrade" the x16 port only - but from what I gather, it's all-or-nothing with the x570.

Strangely though, when using a 3.0 GPU such as the 2080Ti, the x570 just deals with it and still keeps the other lanes in 4.0 mode - but I expect to see a blue screen when plugging in a 4.0 GPU and then trying to squeeze that signal through my non-rated HDPlex flat cable. Would be interesting to know whether anyone successfully experimented with 3.0 cables in 4.0 mode - getting the HDPlex cable to work would be amazing!
 
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Snerual

Cable-Tie Ninja
Jul 3, 2020
168
196
Amazing stuff! Seems like deep inside you already know a 3090 would be a bad idea :)

I'm 95% confident the super flexible 3.0 cable will not work in 4.0 mode. PCIe 4.0 is very reliant on signal integrity so the cable needs extra shielding. The sharp bends in the cable and thin isolation would probably cause way too much interference.

I also don't think you'd see any benefit from a 3090 with your cooling set up. You'd have to undervolt to a point where it's on par with the 3080. Unless you can really think of an application for that extra RAM...

Let's hope the 3080Ti with proper mining protections lands soon!
 
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