Riotoro CR280

Hatswitch

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Nov 20, 2016
11
25
Hello SFFers,

Long-time lurker, first-time poster here. While by sheer technicality the Riotoro is NOT a SFF case (20.7 liters or so), I couldn't find a case that met all of my desires and I didn't have the time or patience to scratch build my own (though I sure as heck did have a plan). I scrapped my ideas on a Hadron Air almost two years ago due to lack of water cooling options (and a poorly laid out case), then moved to an EVOLV ITX, and found it cumbersome (at 32 internal, 34 external liters) and rather space-inefficient in certain areas, so I decided to give the no-name a try.



Anyhow, parts are nothing cosmic, it's a two-year old build just transported
i5-4690K
ASRock Z97E-ITX/ac
Zotac GTX 970 mini
8GB Kingston HyperX
Crucial 240GB SSD
WD Red 2.5" 1TB HDD
Seasonic 660X2 Platinum modular PSU

Water cooling:
Alphacool NexXxos ST30 240mm Radiator
Koolance 80mm reservoir
Alphacool Eisdecke pump top
Koolance COV450 pump top
Alphacool VPP655 pump
Alphacool VPP755 pump
Swiftech MCP655TM pump
XSPC Raystorm CPU block
Alphacool GPX-N 970 m01 GPU block
XSPC & EK fittings
Norprene 3/8" ID 1/2" OD tubing (originally vinyl)
Distilled water with PT Nuke

First off, I picked up this case in December after I found out that it had a price drop from $75 US to $55 US, with Prime shipping, and since I was in the market for a desktop-style ITX case that was smaller than my Phanteks EVOLV ITX. It seemed roomy enough to fit some water cooling gear and aesthetically pleasing enough that I figured it would make a good addition next to my desk. I found the size a good compromise between the Hadron Air (my first ITX build) and the EVOLV ITX (my second), with much better component room than the Hadron and less overall size than the EVOLV.




As far as features were concerned, I found myself thinking "wow, that's a pretty cool idea" at points, and "really!?" at others. The layout, for starters, is very solid, which was one of my frustrations with the Hadron (and 25% of its volume being taken up by 2 drives). It is a standard micro-tower layout with ATX or SFX (and adapter) power supply on the bottom, a space-effective method of securing 2 2.5" drives in the front, and a 3.5" drive (unused, in my case) behind the motherboard tray. The 2.5" drive mounts have built-in vibration-reducing grommets, which I thought was pretty awesome for my 1TB spindle drive.

You're not seeing things, the front has a curve to it, which I will mention later

Each fan mount sports vibration-reducing grommets as well, with enough in the accessory box to fit all 5 fan locations. However, if using mounts like those provided for the Noiseblocker eloop, the nuts jut out enough to prevent the use of the included fan filters. The fan mounts are also designed to use the M4.5 screws, so anything smaller won't hold, even with the grommets in place.



For those interested in water cooling in this case, don't get your hopes up too much, as contrary to what some have posited, it is not possible to mount a 240mm radiator to the roof, as it is not offset enough to give clearance to the RAM. The only viable radiator locations are a rear 120mm (which I have seen pictures of but have not tried myself due to a lack of a 120mm radiator), and a front 240mm radiator. This is somewhat misleading as well, because there is not enough length for a reference 10.5" graphics card, a 30mm thick 240mm radiator, and a fan on the bottom mount location. Doing the math (without having a reference card on hand to test), even a 12.5mm thick fan wouldn't work.

Back to the top fan mounts, they have an interesting filter placed with little push pins that latch to a mesh that fits perfectly. Not-so-perfectly, however, mounting a fan in its designated location will push these pins out (not enough for them to detach, just come up a little), which was the biggest facepalm moment for the case.


For giggles, I put my NH-D14 on at first and replaced the Zotac GTX 970 mini cooling solution (or "ear-bleedy solution," take your pick). The D14's heat pipes were just a hair too tall, however, and did not allow the side panel to close all the way (might have worked if there was no side window). The stock cooler on the 970 was a bit too loud for my taste, so I put it under water using parts from my EVOLV build and an Alphacool pump top and reservoir.



Shown with a Noctua NH-D9L after I stopped chortling

On a related note, I ran into some problems with the Alphacool pump top, both with the attached reservoir and without, and ended up sacrificing two D5s to the gods of hard knocks. Turns out the pump top outlet was broken, which may have led to some extra damage but definitely killed my two pumps.

Anyhow, after getting my third pump off of RMA, I put it all back together and crossed my fingers. . .Okay two days later it still works, but it beats the maybe one hour I got out of the other two setups. So below are the "final" pics at this stage:






Cable management is for suckers


Final Thoughts:
Overall, I am pleased with the case, though I do think it could be made with a little bit sturdier material. The front facade is mildly warped, as are the side panels from being taken off and put back on a number of times (and maybe from being sat on lightly once. . .or twice). The method of securing the front facade could also use some work, as the tabs that hold it in tend to bend a bit.

I like the simple aesthetic, though red is not my bag. Thankfully the trim is a simple sticker that can be removed at the whim of the owner. The front logo, as well, can be recolored, though I think the cut-out is a tad too big. I am definitely a fan of the subtle power light, though again, red is not my thing, and I will be scratching my head trying to find white LEDs to replace them.

Detail of the power LED

For easy water cooling, 120mm AIO solutions would be ideal, with one in the front (upper mount) and one in the rear locations. A 240mm up front leaves the bottom mount location bare with a reference 10.5" graphics card, although so far I have yet to have any temperature issues (stock clocks). Routing the tubing and sorting out where the pump and reservoir should go is definitely one of the more difficult brain teasers for those interested, but is definitely doable even without case modification. As a note: I am well aware that I could move my pump over an inch to fit a bottom 120mm fan, but for the sake of future compatibility I wanted to try it with one fan only first.

Anyway, thoughts are always appreciated, and I can attempt to answer any questions for those wondering about this little gem of a case.
 

BaK

King of Cable Management
Bronze Supporter
May 17, 2016
932
932
Simple but nice case, and a cheap one!
Cool to see all the different options you've tried.
Dunno if it's bad luck or what, but I will think twice before buying an Alphacool pump now!

For those interested in water cooling in this case, don't get your hopes up too much, as contrary to what some have posited, it is not possible to mount a 240mm radiator to the roof, as it is not offset enough to give clearance to the RAM. The only viable radiator locations are a rear 120mm (which I have seen pictures of but have not tried myself due to a lack of a 120mm radiator), and a front 240mm radiator. This is somewhat misleading as well, because there is not enough length for a reference 10.5" graphics card, a 30mm thick 240mm radiator, and a fan on the bottom mount location. Doing the math (without having a reference card on hand to test), even a 12.5mm thick fan wouldn't work.

[...]

I am well aware that I could move my pump over an inch to fit a bottom 120mm fan, but for the sake of future compatibility I wanted to try it with one fan only first.
Too bad it is not possible to put a rad on top.
But you definitely need to fill that unused space by adding a 120mm rad at the back and the missing fan on the front rad! ;)
 
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Phuncz

Lord of the Boards
SFFn Staff
May 9, 2015
5,837
4,906
Amazing first post, welcome to the forum ! An interesting case with perforation on four of the six panels. Seeing how stuffed the case looks, I'd still class it as SFF :)
 

Hatswitch

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Nov 20, 2016
11
25
I think I like this version the best, just because the cooler fills out the case so much.

This is pretty much a Define Nano S, right? Looks like a good alternative. And if they moved the 3.5" drive from behind the motherboard to somewhere else and made it a bit narrower, it'd even be proper SFF.
The D14 pretty much covers any ITX board completely, and I do like the look. Would need to shave down the heat pipes but definitely workable.

Basically a truncated Nano S, without the depth to support reference graphics card, 25mm fan, and 30mm x 240mm rad up front. Also about 60% the volume, with fewer water cooling options.

Nice write-up, I appreciate the effort post!
Thanks!

Simple but nice case, and a cheap one!
Cool to see all the different options you've tried.
Dunno if it's bad luck or what, but I will think twice before buying an Alphacool pump now!

Too bad it is not possible to put a rad on top.
But you definitely need to fill that unused space by adding a 120mm rad at the back and the missing fan on the front rad! ;)
The pumps were fine, my first one spent a year and a half in my old case with no problems, but the pump top I got was either broken when I got it or broke during installation or something, which led to the failures.

Fan on the front rad may happen, but the rear 120mm rad and a solution for the bottom fan slot are certainly in the works, wallet permitting. =)

Amazing first post, welcome to the forum ! An interesting case with perforation on four of the six panels. Seeing how stuffed the case looks, I'd still class it as SFF :)
Thanks! Yeah it definitely has plenty of airflow, and would work very well as an air-cooled case, for those who want to use full sized components/ATX power supplies.
 
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TheHig

King of Cable Management
Oct 13, 2016
951
1,171
Nice job! I have the cr280 and really like it for the price. Great to see how you went about the water cooling set up in there. Totally agree that it is in a sweet spot dimension wise for a lot of build flexibility. Mine is air but works very well. Under rated case for sure.
 
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Hatswitch

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Nov 20, 2016
11
25
Update time.

First off, I love the case, it's simple and works well.

Like any turd sandwich, though, there needs to be the turds. As I mentioned, I wish the metal was a slightly thicker gauge, as it would add some rigidity and make the whole process a lot less frustrating when it comes to feeling like you're going to bend the case every time you install something new. Big downside is the square plastic power button cover broke, so I'll need to contact Riotoro to see if I can get a replacement or figure out some sort of work around. The switch still works, just looks odd.

One thing I wanted to do was to change the color of the striping and logo on the front, which was stupidly easy. I ended up choosing a gray 1/8 inch pinstripe kit from a car parts store and it was really easy to simply take the existing tape off and put the new striping on. The logo I used the "color swatch" from the kit and taped it on there.


Finally, since there is an option now for a top-of-the-line 1080 or 1080 Ti in a mini format (thanks Zotac), I figured putting the second 120mm fan on the radiator would work. It's a stupidly tight fit unless you take the whole loop apart, and I scratched some paint putting the radiator back in, but I could have done the right thing and take it all apart, but I was impatient.


Hoping the next few months will let me upgrade the hardware, but for now I figured I'd fill y'all in on the (very limited) progress I've made in the last year. Still recommend this case for a custom loop itx case since it's got a lot of flexibility without the stupid volume associated with more watercooling options (Nano S/Evolv ITX).
 

confusis

John Morrison. Founder and Team Leader of SFF.N
SFF Network
SFF Workshop
SFFn Staff
Jun 19, 2015
4,162
7,119
sff.network
Interesting build. I was seriously considering sourcing one of these before an NCase M1 appeared locally for cheap!
 

Hatswitch

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Nov 20, 2016
11
25
Interesting build. I was seriously considering sourcing one of these before an NCase M1 appeared locally for cheap!
Yeah, it's a bit of a no-name, even in the SFF world, and no doubt comes with its fair share of warts.

As an update, I swapped out the fittings, added another 120mm radiator to the exhaust and a new pump top to square away some of the sizing issues I'd had, as well as give it a less tone-deaf look, although it isn't quite sorted on a theme yet. I'm waiting on some money to come my way to upgrade the innards a bit before I revamp it any more than I did tonight.

I decided to replace the power light with white LEDs from adafruit, and while it gets the general point across, I want to figure out a way to make it more glowy instead of shiny. May have to play around with some acrylic, but it's a start from the red LEDs. The power button cover broke off a bit ago and I just got around to emailing Riotoro about it. They got back to me fairly quickly but haven't received a replacement yet.

Janky and a little bit sloppy, but it gets the job done for now.

List of random other stuff done:
Installed a 50mm reservoir body and lowered the reservoir to make filling easier
Added a drain port to the graphics card input line
Tidied up the wire management
Finally removed the protective film on the window

Remounted the SSD and HDD on the back side of the wall since adding the lower fan did something weird to my HDD and it wasn't working until I took it out of the case. Chose to use set screws in the radiators and use the wide nuts from the noiseblocker fans to attach the radiators, which in the case of the front fans, make it impossible to use the included filters.

When adding the exhaust radiator, I ran into a slight issue in that the fan makes contact with the CPU block screws. While this makes it difficult to attach the radiator, it also makes the fan make contact with the acrylic window on the side panel. I tried some 35mm M3 screws that came with my radiators but I wasn't able to reach the backplate, so I may be running with the side panel off for a bit to avoid bending the panel.

Final Pictures:






As always, thanks for looking!