My Way # 22 - Yet another scratch build case

[neilhart]

Key components:

Gigabyte Z370N WiFi
Intel i7-8700T 35W TDP
Samsung NVMe 960EVO M.2 256GB
Gigabyte GTX 960 (ITX size version)
BCM94360CS2 in an M.2 adapter
noctua NH-L9i CPU Cooler
HDPLEX 160W DC-ATX Power
Parvum Systems Modding Cubes

This one-off project is nearing completion but is stalled as I test different panel options to obtain best cooling.

I have fabricated the 4.4L case from 6061 aluminum plate and sheet stock with the idea of sending the final parts out for bead or sand blasting and anodize.

As seen here the system is happy until I overload the external 130W AC to DC brick. The brick shutdowns and that is that. I may switch the GPU to a GTX 1050 or purchase a 330W brick.

In this project I have added a folding handle on the top of the case, cabled the HDPLEX 160W PSU out to the bottom panel (clearance issue mounting to the MB), and added a version of my sliding light pipe/power switch/reset switch.

Neil

 

[aquelito]

My 45W i7 3630QM and GTX 1060 3 Go consumes around 165W max.

You should be fine with a 240W brick. Lots of slim references at a decent price.

What are the external dimensions of the case ?

 

[neilhart]

My 45W i7 3630QM and GTX 1060 3 Go consumes around 165W max.

You should be fine with a 240W brick. Lots of slim references at a decent price.

What are the external dimensions of the case ?

The external dims:

Tall 8 inches - 202 mm
Width 4.75 inches - 119.9 mm (with two side panels not shown)
Depth 7.125 inches - 180 mm

But does not include the folding handle that is : 0.375 x 1.250 x 6.315 inches.

 

[CC Ricers]

It is possible to use a 35W T processor with a GTX 960 with at least a 150W brick. That's what I have, one from Dell Alienware, which did fine with my own HDPLEX 160W DC-ATX. A GTX 1060 may be a tad more efficient, and that GPU is gonna fly though games. It would be quite a nice upgrade from what you have.

 

[neilhart]

So I noticed that the case is one big heat sink for this system. That is after several hours the case is noticeably warm.

I have the HDPLEX 160W unit attached by its heat sink to the bottom panel and that area is very warm. I dug around my boxes of salvage parts and found a little fan and I thought that I would try.

And I should put some heat sink compound under the PSU heat sink.

Neil

 

[neilhart]

The small fan seems to keep that area a littler cooler but the fan mount needs some work.

I am proceeding with modding the raw panels by adding ventilation holes. The front panel seen in process of truing up my rough cuts.

more to follow,

Neil

 

[neilhart]

I have installed the hex mesh into the front panel cutouts and this is probably to final form of that panel. I have mock up left and right panels in place and I am running Prime95 torture test.

There is an amazing amount of heat being exhausted on the motherboard side of the system.

With in a few minutes the system is running way hotter then I like. It did not shut down.

However the system is stable with this configuration. Note that I am running Apple macOS 10.13.4 .

Neil

 

[neilhart]

A few photos as I get near to a wrap on this project.

More on the internals to follow,
neil

 

[neilhart]

Mini ITX vs SFF Mini ITX

neil

 

[BaK]

Really cute little box!

Looks rock solid with such thick aluminium pannels.
It seems like you did all the squared holes by hand, good job! Especially for the small USB ones!

I guess it misses just a few mm in order to fit the 160W DC-ATX directly into the 24pin connector, right?

How are the hex meshes held in place? Just by having them a little bigger than their hole?
Don't you plan to add one to protect the CPU fan?
Nice fan duct btw, fits perfectly!

It does not seem to be the premium version of the Thermaltake riser.
Must be the 200mm or 220mm one, are you happy with it?

More on the internals to follow

Would be cool to see more of the inside, especially how you did the motherboard tray and how it is attached to the back and front sides.
Is it made out of a super thick alu pannel?

This may also clear things up about what we see on top of the 2nd pic. LED tubing that goes through all the case?
Can this act somehow as a power button?

[Sorry for all these questions...]

 

[AleksandarK]

That aluminum work is great(plus i am huge aluminum fan)! Superb job


Just one Q - Are you going to paint it?

 

[BaK]

I have fabricated the 4.4L case from 6061 aluminum plate and sheet stock with the idea of sending the final parts out for bead or sand blasting and anodize.

 

[neilhart]

I currently have the system diss-assembled and I am going out for quotes on bead blasting and anodize. More on that when I know more...da

Anyway the riser cable is Thermaltake PCI-E 3.0 X16 Reinforced Cable, 200mm available on line and at my local Fry’s store. I have not had any issues with these (as I currently have three in this and other projects).

The center rib is derived from "My way #21" and is .250 inch (6.3mm) 6061 T5 aluminum. With this width I am able to drill and tap for M3 screws. The is photo is from late in the process but before I started adding ventilation windows to the panels.

I own a 10" Jet table saw that I reworked to get proper blade to fence alignment to within 0.0004 inch. And for cutting aluminum I use an 84 tooth carbide tipped blade. With this alignment, I can cut aluminum with ease.

The 0.125 inch (3.1 mm) aluminum used is from another project that my client bailed on.

The front to back distance of the center rib is 2 mm greater then motherboard. I did this without much fore thought and drove the placing the HDPLEX 160 on the bottom panel and caused me to generate the short 24 pin harness.

The center rib is 7.75 inches (195.7 mm) which provides a little space top and bottom for cables and now the bottom intake fan.

You will note that the right side panel has only one ventilation window and ducting is added to insure the CPU cooler takes outside air and does not re-breath it's own hot air. The top and front right side vents allow the hot air to escape.

neil

 

[neilhart]

The system has a unique All In One Power Switch, Reset Switch, Power LED and Drive Activity assembly.

The light pipe emitts blue light when power is on and then flashes white when drive activity is heppening. Press the sliding light pipe fron the front of the system for power on/off. Press the light pipe from the rear of the system for system RESET.

Made up of fairly common bits:

7.5 inch clear acrylic rod
3mm Blue LED (Adafruit)
3mm White LED (Adafruit)
330 ohm 1/4 resistor (qty 2)
1/4 heat shrink sleeving
3/8 heat shrink sleeving
front panel wiring accessory kit
Hitachi 2.5mm male/female 4 pin connectors X000WJCPML (qty 2)
3 mm and 6mm ABS Sheet stock and ABS solvent glue
M3 6mm socket flat head SS screw
small momentary switches (Adafruit)

neil

 

[BaK]

Thx a lot for the detailed explanations!

I knew there was something special with this power switch / pipe!
As you say this is really unique, great inventiveness, congrats!
Reset at the back is the way to go, I also put it there on my NCase build!

From your previous #21 build, which I had missed, there are better views of the hex meshes.
It seems like they are just 'clipped' in place into their holes. Is that right?
If so, is that sturdy enough to prevent them from dropping into the case when they are touched from the outside?

 

[neilhart]

The hex mesh is 0.032 inch thick aluminum that appears to be clear anodized. I acquire the mesh from McMaster Carr.com in a fairly large sheet. I trim the pieces and try to align the mesh pattern. I cut window inserts from aluminum or ABS just 0.064 inch underside and press the mesh into the window. Then when I am "done" I go back and epoxy the edges of the mesh to the panel. The epoxy that I use is JB Weld and has a 24 hour cure cycle. Needless to say the mesh can be damaged by rough handling otherwise this is a neat trick for high flow windows.

When I am not done on a project, I use silicone adhesive to secure the mesh and some projects have never had the epoxy applied.

I have my panels out for bead blasting and Type 3 Anodize which should give me a nice uniform grey finish. These are due at the end of this week.

more to follow...
Neil

 

[BaK]

I had used a gel super glue to keep two aluminium pieces together, bond looked strong.
I keep note epoxy and silicon adhesive are working fine, as well as your press method for the mesh insertion!

Can't wait to see the grey finish!

 

[neilhart]

Small update.

I was pleased that the anodized parts were ready for me on Friday.

I reassembled the system and took these photos.

With the bead blasting and Type 3 Anodizing the parts are very uniform in texture and appearance.

Next, I need to epoxy the mesh pieces as they are just set into place. And then do a photo shoot.

Currently dust is a real problem. Some of the dust may be from the fires burning in California.

Anyway more to follow.

Neil

 

[BaK]

Love the grey you've chosen!
Keeping the aluminium meshes natural color gives a nice touch too!
I still think that such a mesh is missing on the fan aperture. It's up to you though, or more precisely up to your fingers!

It misses a few mm to the lateral sides in order to be flat with the top one, is that on purpose?

 

[neilhart]

Love the grey you've chosen!
Keeping the aluminium meshes natural color gives a nice touch too!
I still think that such a mesh is missing on the fan aperture. It's up to you though, or more precisely up to your fingers!

It misses a few mm to the lateral sides in order to be flat with the top one, is that on purpose?

I intend to have the hex mesh flush with the exterior surface. I will try to achieve that when I epoxy them but this will be a real trick to avoid getting epoxy only where it is needed and not onto exterior surface.

I will make up a hex mesh for the CPU fan and go back through my thermal stress tests. Presently the system idles at 28 to 32 C and under Prime95 Torture Test system does peak to 80 to 84 C with most of tests running in the mid 70's.

Neil