[Multiple Build Thread] Mega build thread.

[3lfk1ng]

Since this section is for "Non-SFF related banter", I guess this would be the best place to post my upcoming "large" build-out extravaganza.

1. Moving a 2011-2013 era machine into a smaller case (42.44L to 33.4L).
   Progress [||||||||||||||||||||] - 100% (Link)
2. Making my HTPC quiet (HSF, Fans, PSU).
   Progress [||||||||||||||||||||] - 100% (Link)
   
3. Building the wife a new gaming computer.
   Progress [||||||||||||||||||||] - 100% (Link)
4. Documenting a garage remodel.
   Progress [||||||||||||||||||||] - 75% (Link)
   
5. Threadripper build: Project 1920x1080
   Progress [||||||||||||||||||||] - 100% (Link)
6. Documenting the build of a new sim rig.
   Progress [||||||||||||||||||||] - 100% (Link)

Why is this happening?

• In the garage is a simulation rig cockpit that takes up a parking space (4' x 6'). I plan to park a car in its place so the large sim-rig has to downsize.
• Going to renovate the garage.
• Going to build a new, more compact simrig, with an integrated computer and audio system.
• The Caselabs case at 42.44L is too big so the contents will migrate into the new Fractal Define Mini C.
• I will be selling my Caselabs Mercury S3 and putting that money towards a beastly 2017 SFF build.
  This also happens to be the perfect time because I am currently without my rig (typing from laptop):
• My 2011 Corsair AX850 appears to have failed and the custom length, custom sleeved, PSU cables that I made won't work on the AX860 replacement that Corsair plans to send back to me as a comparable model via RMA (horray for 7 year warranties!).
• I don't feel like to remaking custom cables for an ATX-sized PSU that will remain with this old rig that I plan to replace next year.

You can quote me, "After this build, I will never build a big chassis again."
UPDATE: "I failed you all" -Me, 2017

Current PC:
Intel i7-4770k @ 4.7GHz
Asus Z87 Maximus VI Impact
EVGA GTX690 Hydro Copper 4GB @ 1153MHz
16GB G.Skill Trident X 2400MHz

Cooling:
Koolance 380i CPU block
EK X-TOP D5 PWM drive
Swiftech Hydro Copper GPU block
EK X3 150 Reservoir
Alphacool NexXxos 240mm XT45
Alphacool NexXxos 280mm UT60
2x Bitfenix Spectre Pro 120mm
2x Bitfenix Spectre Pro 140mm
Lamptron FC-5V2 PWM

This was a particularly fun build because I used my love for 3D design to 3D print some custom parts:

The problem is that it's just too big and won't lay down on its side to be thin enough to fit in the redesigned sim-rig.
Left to right: Cooler Master Elite 110 (ITX), Fractal Define Mini C (MATX), Caselabs Mercury S3 (ITX).

I plan to do a 1:1 migration from the Mercury S3 to the Mini C.
The Mini C was ordered and shipped today, it will be at my doorstep tomorrow
Hopefully it WILL misbehave and require me to buy new liquid cooling components.

Thank you for reading,
Drew

 

[3lfk1ng]

Ready for tomorrow ...and ready for sleep.

 

[3lfk1ng]

The new Fractal Define Mini C case arrived so I decided to make a little progress today.
Thankfully, it did misbehave and it wasn't able to fit all my current equipment so I bought a few goodies to help complete the build.

Here are a few screenshots illustrating the difference in size between the ITX-based Caselabs Mercury S3 (Right) and the mATX-based Fractal Define Mini C (Left).

That strange top panel section pops off for top-mounted radiator installs. It comes with a really slick magnetic dust filter that fits that whole area.

During the process, I was delightfully surprised at how well made the case was. There are lots of wonderful little details and the sound deadening material is quite robust. For the price, this case punches well above its weight making it one of the best cases I have ever had the pleasure of working on.

Then, the first thing I did was gut it...
I removed the HDD tray followed by the shroud that enables the addition of a 360mm/280mm/240mm radiator up front.
From one review to another I was seeing some conflicting information on what would fit up front so I decided to measure it.

Provided the front-mounted radiator was no more than ~148mm wide, it would fit in this case with a little bit of work.
Radiators up to 60mm deep will fit in a little groove that is slotted into the shroud that houses the PSU.
Note: These dimensions would completely exclude the use of all Hardware Labs radiators (their radiators are all 153mm wide)

During my tests, I was legitimately surprised that it would fit a massive 280mm Aquacomputer Modularity Radiator. I've had some lovely Lian-Li cases that couldn't fit this beauty so it was a welcome surprise -even though it's not going to see use in this build.

With a setup like this (60mm thick rad), once you install the fans, you wouldn't be able to use a full-size graphics card anymore as it would be consuming a full 85mm(3.346") of space at the front of the case. However, two 1070 mini's on an mATX board would fit no problem!

Because my current Alphacool NexXxos 280mm UT60 is just as thick, I had to order a Alphacool NexXxoS 280mm ST30 to take its place.
The 279.4mm (11") GTX690 didn't stand a chance.

Even with my Alphacool NexXxos 240mm XT45, there wouldn't be enough room for any fans.

The 30mm rad combined with 25mm fans will have no issues fitting (combined 55mm).
With my GTX690 in place, it looks like I will have 60mm of space up front, nice n' tight.

Now, onto the fun!
The top mounted radiator will only work if all the objects at the top of the motherboard stick out no greater than 40mm from the motherboard tray.

As you can see, the G.Skill Tridents were too tall compared to the radiator mounting points that can be seen on the right side of this picture in the grill (those adjustable slots)

With the top portions removed, I had no issues meeting EXACTLY 40mm. In fact, the only parts that will give me issue are the Koolance mounting hardware; they are about 1mm too tall but that shouldn't be an issue.

Test fitting the radiator proved that this will be a very tight fit, it was definitely touching the mobo/ram.
I'm not even remotely concerned about it, if anything it will double as a heatsink for the ram and VRMs, perfect!

I wasn't too happy with the default White PCI covers so I pulled out a few spares from my parts bin.
White, Black, Chrome.

With the little bit of chrome accents coming off of the GPU and CPU block, I decided to slip on some rubber anti-vibration gromets and go with chrome.

The SSDs mounted neatly on the back.

With all that out of the way, now I need to plan my loop and wait for the remaining parts to arrive.

Thanks for reading,
Drew

 

[jeshikat]

You know it's a good SFF build when parts are touching or fit with just 1mm to spare

 

[Phuncz]

If it ain't touchin', it's using up volume Well done, keep up with the build progress !

 

[3lfk1ng]

In the heat of rebuilding one machine, I got the bug.

So... while I was waiting for some additional parts to arrive for one machine, I decided to do a partial rebuild on my only SFF machine, the Cooler Master Elite 110. Down the rabbit hole we go!

This is my dedicated HTPC/Plex machine that my Roku pulls movies from but the Bitfenix fans that it housed had an extremely annoying whine to them that is unbearable especially during the quieter parts of a movie. Speedfan cannot control the headers on this particular board and setting the fan headers in bios to "silent" did very little.
Update: Finally found a way to control the fans via Speedfan. It's uber quiet now.

Here are the current specs:
AMD Kaveri A10-7850k @ 4.0Ghz
Gigabyte GA-F2A88XN-WIFI
MSI GTX760 Mini
2x4GB G.Skill TridentX 2400Mhz
Corsair H80i AIO (120mm)
2x 120mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro
1x 256gb Samsung 840 EVO
1x 3TB HGST Nas drive

While my main PC was out of commission, I decided to use this HTPC as a backup PC so that I could continue to play games in the mean time. Unfortunately, in the middle of a gaming session, with two fans screaming at around ~70dB, the computer would completely shut off.
Alarmed at this, I found out that the CPU temps were getting well past 85c and the computer was shutting down as a safety measure.
It didn't make too much sense because the computer had a Corsair H80i AIO with two 120mm fans (push/pull) ...apparently the internal pump had failed.

I removed the AIO cooler, installed an old 140MM Bitfenix fan that I had lying around (thinking the 140mm would be quieter) in it's place and then purchased a Noctua NH-L9x65 to cool the CPU.
Upon installation, this led to another issue: my G.Skill TridentX ram wouldn't fit due to the heatpipes interfering with Slot1.
The heatspreaders on the G.Skills are too thick and they cannot be removed from this model without accidentally pulling an IC out of its solder.
Ugh.

Now, in order to have 8Gb of ram (my preferred minimum), I needed to install some ram without heatspreaders.
This also meant that it had to be fast enough to provide the performance that AMD's APUs rely on. As an example for anyone unaware, going from DDR3 1600Mhz to 2133Mhz, the Kaveri gains about 20% increase in performance and gradually tapers off as it gets closer to 2400Mhz.

So I removed the G.Skill TridentX 2400Mhz and decided to pull out 8GB of fancy memory from my old PC (now the wife's PC).
Behold! My old trusty 30nm Samsung 1.35v low-profile DDR3 memory 1600Mhz, capable of overclocking to 2400Mhz.

Without costing anything extra, it fit perfectly! It just narrowly avoids touching the heatpipes as you can see here:

That obnoxiously loud 140mm Bitfenix fan (seen at the bottom of that picture above) is being pulled from the case and replaced with a Noctua NF-P14s on Thursday. I will have silence!

Ok, back to regularly scheduled programming. Here is an update on the progress of my rebuild.

The 140.2 30mm radiator arrived and installed without a hitch.

My GTX690 fit with just shy of 5mm to spare.

The top mounted 120.2 40mm radiator fit. In the screenshot below, I was playing around with my old tubing to get an idea for my loop.
Pump > Front Rad > CPU block > Top Rad > GPU Block > Reservoir > Pump

Notes:
- The reservoir is being mounted there because the case will be laying on its backside.
- While some people prefer the clean look of going directly from the CPU to the GPU, I have always preferred running the water through a radiator between the two heat sources to help keep temperatures low and the overclocks high

While I was at it, I decided to install some EKWB ZMT Matte tubing

During this test-fit (incomplete), I ran out of tubing so I will need to acquire some more but so far it's off to a pretty good start.
The ZMT tubing is extremely flexible and easy to cut so it's been a real thrill to work with.
The barb at the end of the reservoir will go to a remote mounted D5 PWM pump (hidden below) that will complete the loop.
I am still waiting for Corsair to provide a replacement for the AX850 that I had to RMA.

Now, it's time to do some drilling.

Thank you for reading,
Drew

 

[Phuncz]

I loved that Samsung memory for being us much to-the-point as it can be, while being an unbelievable overclocker to boot. Too bad I missed that train, it's sad that VLP memory is somehow disliked while I see nothing but advantages.

 

[3lfk1ng]

It's quite sad when you think about it. That ram came out and made a splash back in 2011/12.
After a few months of explosive success with the SFF community, it started to become super rare and then the prices skyrocketed.

At 1.35v on the 30nm process, it generates little to no heat and overclocks like a champ.
It's still available if you could use it for a build: here
If heat spreaders are important due to lack of airflow, the Ballistix Sport would be a good choice too (also 1.35v).

From experience, it doesn't play well with 1.55v+ sticks.
If anyone decided to get them, all memory will need to be the exact same @ 1.35v.

 

[Phuncz]

Indeed, I wish they would release DDR4, last time I checked there still is no DDR4 VLP memory available...
I have several sets of the Ballistix Sport in DDR3 so I'm good for now. Although my next planned build will need DDR4.

 

[EdZ]

Indeed, I wish they would release DDR4, last time I checked there still is no DDR4 VLP memory available...

Sadly there are plenty of DDR4 VLP DIMMs available... all of which are either ECC or RDIMMS. Both of which have more chips to deal with than standard DIMMs! RDIMMS are no-go for anything with a consumer chipset, but in the past you could put ECC DIMMs in consumer boards and often have them work (without the ECC functionality, of course).

 

[3lfk1ng]

but in the past you could put ECC DIMMs in consumer boards and often have them work (without the ECC functionality, of course).

That is very true. I've seen Linus do that quite a few times.

 

[3lfk1ng]

Mid-day yesterday, during the Star Citizen Anniversary Livestream, I had an epiphany! I knew what needed to be done to complete my loop in a way that I would be satisfied.

As soon as I got home from work, I visually tested my plan and decided to put it into effect.

Now, I know that I've said it before but I'll say it again, the Factal Mini C is the best case that I have ever had the pleasure of working with. For custom loops, the flex mounts for the fans/radiators has been a saving grace where I can quickly relocate them to ensure perfect fitment.

I was up until 3:00am last night trying to make some serious progress but thankfully I was all smiles the entire time.

I'll let the pictures do the talking. Enjoy!

The epiphany=

I took the default cover plate that is provided for those that decide not to mount a radiator to the front of the case. Useing a dremel I then cut it to size and prepped for some Bitspower pass-throughs (typically fillports/ drainports) that I happened to have lying around.

Pump to 280mm X 30mm radiator. Perfect fit.

I cut out an internal template using 17x11 printer paper.

This stuff is durable as all hell, super flexible, forgiving, and easy to work with. Great for modding EVERYTHING.

This is unique swivel-head x-acto for cutting sharp radius'. I'm no hand model.

Before

After

Perfection

...but where do those go?

The pump has zero room to spare

That's a Bitspower T Adapter, more on that in a later post.

More parts are on the way! Stay tuned for the next update.

Thank you for reading,
Drew

 

[3lfk1ng]

The Corsair SF450 arrived today so it was time to make some progress on the HTPC and complete the task.

For anyone unaware, the Thermaltake TR2-500 on the left is often regarded as one of the WORST power supplies ever made.
- It was marketed as a 500 watt PSU.
- See the model number "PSF450"? That's actually a 'generous' typo, it's supposed to say "PSF405"
- Why? Because the components on the inside are rated for only 405 watts.
- Drawing more than 400 watts causes the PSU to shutdown.
- It runs really hot passed 300 watts
- Fans run at full speed.
- It reached maximum efficiency at 145 W and went downhill fast, really poor results ~360watts.

I've had it since a budget build back in 2009. These facts didn't bother me much since the system consumed all of 320watts. Just recently, since the PSU failed in my main computer, I started gaming on my HTPC to hold me over. While gaming, it would shutdown after ~3 minutes in-game due to the TR2-500.

So glad to be done with that!

OLD

New

Step 2 - 100% Complete

Thank you for reading,
Drew

 

[Phuncz]

Good progress and nice epiphany ! It's looking really good !

 

[iFreilicht]

Your Fractal Nano S build is shaping up really well, can't wait for more progress on that!

 

[3lfk1ng]

@iFreilicht
Ha, thank you! It's actually their brand new Fractal Define Mini C. I would say that it's a few leaps and bounds above the design quality of their Nano S but at 33.43L, it's a little bigger than the Nano S' 26.80L.
__________________________________________

That parts delivery was delayed in the mail due to the Thanksgiving holiday but the rest of my Bitspower fittings have finally arrived!

Before I move onto the screenshots, here is a quick update for anyone interested in the RMA status of my 2011 Corsair AX850:
- Corsair confirmed that the PSU had indeed failed.
- Approved the RMA.
- Politely explained to me that they no longer make the AX850.
- Offered to replace it with a what Corsair considers a comparable PSU, the HX850i.

I considered their offer to be somewhat generous...
- Downgrade from $179.99 (retail: $225) PSU to $164.99 (retail: $199.99) PSU.
- Upgrade from 80 Gold to 80 Plus Platinum
- Upgrade from standard to Corsair Link capable.
- Upgrade from constant fan to semi-fanless.

...however, it's 180mm in length vs the 160mm length of the AX850, which won't fit in my chassis.
- I politely declined their replacement offer and explained that the 180mm length would be far too long to fit in my case.
- I ask if they offered another comparable unit that was 160mm in length.
- They said no, they don't offer any other comparable replacement PSUs for the AX850.

Note: Apparently it wasn't eligible for the 160mm Corsair AX860 @ $169.99 (retail $199.99) w/o Corsair Link that's just 10watts more

- Instead they offered to process a refund stating that it could take a few weeks.
- I gladly accepted their offer as the HX850i just wouldn't work out.

Here is an except from Corsair's refund policy:

1) to repair or replace the product at Corsair’s expense
or
2) to refund the price paid less a usage fee of 10% of the purchase price for each year since the date of purchase.

I've not been told exactly what $ amount I will get back yet but according to their RMA policy...and if my math is correct, I should get a refund of somewhere around $90. After the refund, that averages out to owning the power supply for just $1.49/month, NOT BAD!

So what am I going to do with the refund?
I will be putting that money towards the cost of Silverstone's upcoming 800watt SFX PSU ($200)
- This rig consumes up to 760watts at peak.

Sure, I could just save money and get a regular, more affordable, 160mm 800 watt+ PSU but this helps to show support for the SFF market.
It will also provide some nice working space. Because the PSU is separated from the rest of the case, fan noise from the occasional 95% usage shouldn't be an issue.

Unfortunately, it just means that my main rig is down until that PSU becomes available. Hopefully soon.

Onto the progress update!
The new parts have arrived! The H2O loop is now 100% complete!

The 45 degree rotary barb matched my measurements perfectly.

After drilling the holes to install the reservoir, slipping the reservoir into place was not an easy task at all. Worse yet, the rugged knurling on the compressing fittings, at such odd angles, did a number on the skin that lines my fingers. I'll do you all a favor and avoid sharing pictures of my fingers in their current condition.

Because I am building this rig with two orientations in mind (standing up and laying down on its back) I decided to add a 45 degree rotary fitting, to an open/close valve, to a low-profile Aquacomputer Pressure Equalization Membrane. The membrane will equalize excess air pressure in the air-bubble that forms atop the reservoir.

On its back orientation (position as seen in the above screenshot):
When the case is on it's back (which will be its permanent resting position when I build the new simrig), I will open the valve as it will now be in direct contact with the air bubble at the top of the reservoir.

Upright orientation (position as seen in the below screenshot):
Like the picture above, the port it uses is the same height as the reservoir exit.
This means there won't be an air bubble and the valve will need to be closed.
I can remove the Pressure Equalization Membrane and use the valve as a fillport.

Miraculously, the upright angle matches PERFECTLY with the angled corners of the Swiftech GPU Block. With just a slight amount of touching, I couldn't be happier with the result. There is plenty of space to connect the PSU cables to the GPU as well.

Sorry about the noisy phonetatoe quality pictures.

I couldn't have planned that any better.

On the underside, I completed the plumbing with a 90 degree triple rotary fitting and another valve for draining the loop. I closed it now so that I wouldn't forget about that later

That's it for the loop! Now I just need that PSU and I will be back in business just in time to build a replacement ZEN rig come Jan/Feb.

The remaining 10% of this Fractal Define Mini C build will be all about cable routing and organization.
Once that's complete, we'll move onto the Garage remodel which should be pretty intense.

Thank you so much for reading!

Best,
Drew

 

[jeshikat]

Millimeter to spare, just the way it should be.

 

[3lfk1ng]

As I briefly mentioned in a post on the new toys thread, a work deadline has forced me to get a replacement PSU before the hotly anticipated SIlverstone SX800 becomes widely available. As a result, I will now consider this computer 100% complete.

To fit into the case, I needed to acquire the shortest length high-capacity PSU possible due to the location of my drainport. After some research I found that the EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G3 is only 150mm long compared to the 160mm long PSU that I used to have.
It still required a little bit of creativity to get it to fit with all the cables but I managed.

100% Complete
Here is a shot of the whole thing back together again and completely operational.

As a quick reminder, the layout was designed with two orientations in mind; being upright and on it's back.
The fillport that is directly attached to the reservoir (right side) is on a 45 degree rotary fitting. This allows me to change the orientation of the fillport to ensure that it will always remain higher than the reservoir.

According to TechReport, only 20% of all Intel i7-4770k's can run 24/7 stable at 4.7GHz.
With that in mind, I consider the performance of my overclocked i7 to be pretty impressive, even by today's standards.

Now, for the fun part!
Whenever I am about to build a brand new machine, I like to benchmark my previous machine in its most primo state as a baseline for any possible performance improvements the new machine might provide.

My previous computer (2011), now passed down to my wife and still completely operational, was no slouch. It currently houses an Intel i7-2600k @ 5.0GHz. Due to the 17% IPC improvement from Sandy Bridge to Haswell, this translates over pretty well. As long as my i7-4770k is running faster than 4,150MHz, it performs better than the "old" i7-2600k@5.0GHz. At a whopping 4,700MHz however, this 2013-era processor is 26.5% faster. It's my hope that even though it's taken AMD quite some time to re-enter the enthusiast market, that my next PC will also provide at least a 26.5% increase in CPU performance.

As for the eventual bench-off once I build the new rig, this isn't about being fair, there is no apples to apples comparison here.
This is about drawing blood! A fight to the death! Mono y Mono. Old vs New.

Specifications
Intel i7-4770k @ 4.7GHz
Asus Z87 Maximus VI Impact
EVGA GTX690 Hydro Copper 4GB @ 1153MHz
16GB G.Skill Trident X 2400MHz

First, I wanted to compare my rig to the performance of the Ryzen demo that we saw back on December 13th.

Blender Benchmark
Intel i7-4770k @ 4.7GHz (4 cores, 8 threads): 56.38 seconds (For reference: 4.5GHz 7700k - 50 seconds)
Ryzen @ 3.4GHz (8 cores, 16 threads): 36 seconds

In theory, Ryzen architecture and IPC improvements aside, if the i7-4770k had twice as many cores/threads, it would have performed at 28.19 seconds. When I get my grubby paws on Zen, I will overclock it and run this same benchmark in an attempt to break 28.19 seconds. That's my goal.

Other Benchmarks:
AquaMark: 421483 marks
3DMark 2006: 38453 marks
3DMark 2011 Performance: 16899 marks
3DMark 2011 Extreme: 7189 marks
3DMark Fire Strike: 12195 marks.
3DMark Fire Strike Extreme: 6534 marks
3DMark Time Spy: 4253 marks.
Passmark Score: 12978 marks (comparable performance to an Intel Core i7-5820K @ 3.30GHz, beating even the i7-7700k @ 12275)
Single Thread Rating: 2806 (over the top)
Unigine Heaven Basic: 7143.95
Unigine Heaven Extreme: 3979.12
Unigine Superposition Medium: 9986
Unigine Superposition 1080p High: 6793
Cinebench R11.5: 10.14 points
Cinebench R15: 933 cb (For reference: 4.5GHz 7700k - 989 cb)
SuperPI 1m: 7.546 seconds

Update: 2/12/2017:
Ryzen 1700x @ 3.39GHz


Intel i7-4770k @ 4.6GHz


As you can see...and no thanks to Intel slacking off, my current rig still holds up pretty well to this day.
I will add more and update this list to make the comparison as accurate as possible when I build the new rig.

Thanks for reading!
Drew

 

[3lfk1ng]

...and if my math is correct, I should get a refund of somewhere around $90. After the refund, that averages out to owning the power supply for just $1.49/month, NOT BAD!

Turns out, I was right on the money. I just got my RMA refund check from Corsair for 90 bucks!
Soon I will also have that $30 refund check from Nvidia for the GTX970 that is in my wife's PC.

I will be putting both checks towards the new build that will likely start to happen sometime in March if current rumors persist.

It's almost been a full month since the rebuild and the rig has been running flawlessly.
In preparation for the new build, I completely reformatted the machine with a fresh Windows 10 Pro x64 install and ran a few benchmarks to see if I could find any improvements but only managed a few 1/2% gains.

I hope to have an update on the other two building projects in the near-ish future.

 

[3lfk1ng]

This weekend I started work on my wife's new computer. The best part about this build is that she hasn't the slightest clue that I am building it for her as she thinks it's a "birthday-present-to-me" rig, haha!

My wife is a huge fan of products/clothing that are white & black but NOT at all a fan of solid black computer cases. I had initially decided to go with a white InWin 301 to replace her silver Lian-Li v354 but it was just far too large at 25 liters. Instead, I will use it to house my little brothers college graduation present: my wife's old computer. Due to the height of the 301, it also wouldn't fit on the bookshelf next to her desk where the v354 comfortably resides. Enter the Hadron.

I recently built a new computer for my brother-in-law (link) due to his old rig shutting down at random (likely failing PSU, temps non-issue). He then gave the old rig to me for troubleshooting (with the intent to pass down to his son at an older age) and as a result I decided to repurpose the EVGA Hadron while I troubleshoot the issue with his old computer.

Wife's Old Rig:
Intel i7-2600k @ 4.8GHz
Corsair H60
Asus Z68 Maximus Gene-Z/GEN3
500GB OCZ Agility
16GB 30nm low-profile Samsung 1.35v DDR3-1600
EVGA GTX970 4GB
Corsair something PSU...
Lian-Li v354 Silver

Wife's New Rig:
Ryzen R7 1700x
Cryorig m9A
MSI B350M Mortar Arctic
Samsung 960 EVO 250GB
G.SKILL TridentZ 16GB 3200MHz CL14
EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC2 GAMING
Corsair SF600 PSU
EVGA Hadron (yes, it fit's mATX motherboards)

The EVGA Hadron is a solid black, steel/plastic, 15.9L ITX case.

The size of the case was kept super small by the use of a 1U FSP500-501UN PSU (80Plus Gold) rebranded as an EVGA unit.

Being that she would HATE an all black case, I decided to do a complete tear down, disassembly and repaint.
He is the fully repainted (lo-res) comparison shot next to the InWin 301.

Inside is an mATX motherboard. Like. A. Glove.

Being that I had to remove the 1U, I had to get creative with the SFX mounted PSU (which I am still waiting for).
I kept the sticker to keep it looking as OEM as possible.

I am going to have to make a custom-length power cable for this one.

I repurposed some old Corsair 120mm PWM fans that I had lying around.

Here is a picture of my final progress at the end of the day.

To do:
Custom power cable
Custom SFX PSU mount
Waiting for Cryorig AM4 mounting bracket.

Thanks for reading!
Drew