Concept Monitor | Wood Paneled Micro Tower, 12L

SnoWFLakE0s

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Sep 17, 2024
8
2
Hello SFFNetwork,

I am rather new to this forum but always had an interest in SFF PCs. With my recent move back into my apartment, I decided it would be better to build a SFF system. I bought all my parts, and at this point, I had my system up and running--but without a case! So while on the hunt for cases, I was wasn't all too happy on the options, particularly in the way they were designed. So I set out to build my own with a couple main design goals:
  • Have generally good compatibility (i.e. not need risers)
  • Be easy to maintain and fabricate
  • Have a smaller footprint than the typical sandwiched SFF cases
  • Fit in with the look of my furniture
  • Look good!
So here are some quick renders of my mostly finished design.



The design takes after the typical design of a studio monitor, sizing also being rather similar. It comes out to 310mm * 176 mm * 223 mm (HxWXD), putting it in around 12.1L.

With compatibility (at least for this form factor) being a major design goal, this design supports...
  • Up to 205mm long, 2-slot GPUs
  • 130mm CPU cooler clearance
  • SFX, SFX-L PSUs
  • ITX motherboards
  • 1 x 2.5" drive
It also supports 2 x 120mm, 2 x 80mm fans for cooling.

The entire case is designed around wood being a primary exterior design element, with bent aluminum sheets as the main structural component. There even is about about 11mm of cabling area behind the motherboard tray, which is also the point at which the 2.5" drive can be mounted. This results in a very "wooden" look, with the only exposed metal being the rear of the case.

Fabrication & Assembly
I attempted to design this in a way that I thought would be easy to maintain (assembly/disassembly), and most of all easy to fabricate. I originally tried to stay away from bending any metal, but given that my machining costs are $0 (hurrah for engineering school), I can afford to do some bending. There are 3 metal panels that need to be cut and bent into shape. They are then screwed onto the metal base-board and to each other with nuts and bolts--I opted to use readily available M3 machine screws whenever possible.



The side panels have been designed to slide into the case. I don't know how well this will actually go, but the plan is to cut the actual panels with 1/4" wood, then glue on an extra 1/16" sheet that acts as the backing and forms the channel through which the panels can be slided on to assemble the case. These are not load-bearing structures, so my judgement is that they will be fine.

Next Steps...
My major concerns right now to finish designing is finalizing fasteners and adding the power button.

I was originally going to opt for a generic panel mounted button, but I do not think it fits the aesthetic. An idea that came of in discussion was to use a standard rotary encoder with a button, and machine a small brass knob to sit on it. This would fit the overall feel of the case better. I felt bad about letting the other pins on the encoder go to waste, so the potential is there for me to hook up a small board with a HID-capable uC like a ATmega32u4 flashed to take encoder inputs as a volume control output. This would simply be wired to connect to the unused USB 2.0 headers on the motherboard, which would allow this to be permanently installed.


I am open to any suggestions/concerns/questions about this project. Please do let me know if I am doing something gravely wrong.
 
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SnoWFLakE0s

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Sep 17, 2024
8
2
Update:

So I've gone ahead and pretty much finalized the design. I will be using a much lighter wood with the typical staggered slots that many use:


The front panel has been redesigned to take a mesh screen/fabric lining like that on speakers. The bottom of the front panel has been significantly changed to incorporate the rotary encoder-power button idea; I've also gone ahead and bought the parts required for this. Although my hardware will only support the power button for now, I've order a couple uCs to potentially later rig it up to act as a volume control knob as well. I may or may not change the position of the power button--I originally put it center to avoid a potential tolerancing conflict, but I think I can make it work now.


The wood panels have been redesigned to have slightly more interesting geometry instead of the flat slats I originally had; I'm still debating whether or not I want them partially cut like now or adding more slots to the ends to bring it all on the same axis. It took me embarrassingly long to figure out the proper geometry for this, but I am over it.


Overall pretty happy about the design. Now for prototyping/fabrication... I will have to talk to the shop to figure out how much material I will actually need for this.
 

Questors

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Oct 28, 2018
124
82
It's reminiscent of bookshelf speakers and I like it. Though the front fabric may impede airflow. Looking at fan placement in the design, it seems airflow is front to back? Maybe your intent is negative case pressure, in from front and back and out the panels?
 

SnoWFLakE0s

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Sep 17, 2024
8
2
It's reminiscent of bookshelf speakers and I like it. Though the front fabric may impede airflow. Looking at fan placement in the design, it seems airflow is front to back? Maybe your intent is negative case pressure, in from front and back and out the panels?
Yes, very much taken after bookshelf speakers. I could potentially also get a small angled speaker stands to slightly lift the PC off the surface and give it some extra airflow + really sell the speaker vibe. If I were to be really crazy, I could technically mount some speaker drivers to the front fan mountings to just make the thing an actual bookshelf speaker (sound quality not considered).

You are correct, airflow design intent is front to back, a couple 120mms front and a couple 80mms in the back. I'm hoping there's enough venting to allow for reasonable temps given that this is a moderately spacious design by SFF standards. I plan to use pressure optimized fans (I typically use Arctic P12s anyway for a multitude of reasons) for the front, but I have not actually "airflow optimized" this case as the fan mountings simply came as space allowed. I can also potentially experiment with slim fans at the bottom of the case and see if that helps the GPU (although my hardware doesn't really concern me with thermals).

I haven't tested the flow through the "speaker grill mesh" (there seems to be a billion different names for this fabric/foam mesh material), but most list it as "acoustically transparent"... which would imply it gives little resistance to air pressure fluctuations (a.k.a. sound) and thus airflow/pressure. I'm still finding a decent place to buy this, so once I get hands-on it will be more obvious.
 

SnoWFLakE0s

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Sep 17, 2024
8
2
Update: after talking with the shop techs, tolerances are going to be a major problem with this design. I will need to make some considerable changes to how this is all put together in order to make it work.