• Discord! Come chat with us in our Discord server, open to all forum members, but now we've opened it up to all. Join our discussions by clicking the "Discord" button on the side menu!!

Completed MJOLNIR: The minimalistic – but not boring – 9.7L Case

Which MJOLNIR I are you interested in?

  • Standard Version - 299 USD

    Votes: 470 74.7%
  • RGB Version (No controller) - 319 USD

    Votes: 62 9.9%
  • RGB Version (With controller) - 349 USD

    Votes: 97 15.4%

  • Total voters
    629

beerbuddha

Cable-Tie Ninja
Apr 27, 2021
176
181
Batch 2 and 3 are 80% done, we’re shipping the last ones this week. Next week I’m going to get the upgrades organized and shipped :)

The power cable is the biggest obstacle, but we have added plenty of space, 60mm of space to be exact.
Do you know of any "pre-made" 90 degrees power cable?
 
  • Like
Reactions: AlexTzone

beerbuddha

Cable-Tie Ninja
Apr 27, 2021
176
181
I honestly have no idea. I only noticed it after taking apart my build to replace some components. But thank you that would be greatly appreciated! How should I get in contact with you to provide information?
curious - how long were you running the build for to get it this warped? did you post your build? I'm just wondering if I should start checking my o2 lol
 

beerbuddha

Cable-Tie Ninja
Apr 27, 2021
176
181
@AlexTzone

Hi!
Quick question, how does an owner of te case order the new PCIE RISER + the BORG addon?
so on the pre-order page it will tell you "new user" or "add-on"
you click on add-on and it will ask for email and order number. the order number needs the # in front.

once you are in, it will show you what you have ordered so far and the pieces that are not highlighted are the ones you can buy as "add-on"
 
  • Love
Reactions: AlexTzone

Jooff

Chassis Packer
Jul 16, 2021
16
10
Just received my Mjolnirs and I absolutely love them. No imperfections worthy to note but I do have a question about that mod for the psu bracket way back in this thread. Does the zip tie that holds the psu plug in place need to be cut and how much can the bracket raise to accommodate for more room for the fans below?
 
  • Love
Reactions: AlexTzone

RE4MATT3D

Trash Compacter
Jan 11, 2021
54
58
Hey All! My Mjolnir arrived yesterday and I couldn't be more thrilled.. Well I couldn't be more thrilled that it arrived, I have a few comments that I could be more thrilled about. But I won't let this take away from my overall excitement as it's net positive. See my unboxing pics and review below. (the review generally follows the order of the pics)

Thor Zone Mjolnir - Unboxing

Wow! Let's start with saying I'm really excited to have my Mjolnir in hand. Upon first inspection of the box, the shipping carton is much smaller than it was in my mind, but the packaging it very well designed and everything arrived in one piece. Whew! I purchased the Mjolnir-R, x2 panel sets, Booster Cell, and extra O2 panel. The extra O2 panel, God Rays, and Booster were stuffed into the core (makes sense to take advantage of the space, but more to follow on this).

The case has some weight to it and the Stealth really does pick up every fingerprint. This was expected and I imagine after sufficient handling you won't notice fingerprints anymore. It's really is a beautiful case and I have absolutely no regrets purchasing it (except maybe not buying 2-3, but $$ is a thing). The panels all snap into place with little effort and it takes a significant amount of force (but not too much) to pop them off. The "tempered" glass definitely has some some wiggle room in the panels and they feel pretty fragile. I'm hoping they prove to be more durable than they feel, but they're pretty thin so I'm doubting it. I guess time will tell.

I was going to post a joke picture complaining that the PSU bracket was crooked (the screw was loose and it just needed to be adjusted) but that was before I found actual issues. Most of what I found is minor and can be lived with. Some of it has been mentioned before, but I wanted to post all my findings.

Probably most concerning to me is the damaged O2 panel. This was the O2 panel that came installed on the case and I'm guessing that something stuffed in the core must have jostled in transit and poked the mesh on the panel. I ordered the spare, and it'll be on the bottom, but I'll probably end up reporting this one for a replacement.. Or I can eat it because I was gonna try putting the mesh on the other side of the panel anyway to give that smooth mesh look (instead of the glorious 8-pack look).

Another thing I noticed, though it was only on one or two magnets, is the messy glue others have complained about. I also had a couple areas of white which I'm assuming are anodizing issues(?), luckily both on internal faces. Also inside the case, the shell had two scratches where it would rub with the core. I'm happy all these are on the inside and won't be visible as it sits on my desk.

Another minor issue, but it really caught me off guard since this is a "premium" case. The side performance panels are not 100% flush with the shell in a couple of the corners. It's hard to tell in the pics (and it just now dawned on me to put a card or something against the case to show the gap) but I noticed some of the corners "dip in" and one sticks out a tad. It's not all one panel and I even swapped the panels from side to side but it's definitely off. I feel like this is minute and nitpicking and I wouldn't complain about it, but wanted to include it in the review in case others noticed it as well.

When I took the PSU mount out to align it I noticed it was slightly bent. I wasn't sure if this was intentional or not, but it was easy to bend the 2mm bracket straight. No hard here but it could have also been due to the loose items inside the core shifting in transit.

Back to some good comments. The attention to detail in the God Rays packaging is amazing. The instructions can be downloaded via the QR code on the box (I was too excited opening the case carton that I missed the QR for the whole chassis User Manual , LOL). There's even a little spot for the screws! Most companies would just throw the hardware in a bag loose in the box. This felt premium. Can't wait to get these lit!

Opening the Booster Cell I was sad to see the attention to detail was lost. No QR code for the User Manual, no carefully crafted packaging for all the wires and screws, just a loose bag of hardware in the box :(.. It was a minor let down but the Booster Cell is solid and has all the premium-ness of the Mjolnir itself and I love all the thought that went into the pin connections to make this work with the core being removable. I'm a little confused with how to install it still though. I know how to mount it, but the fan connector feels crammed in there and I'm afraid I'm going to jam it into the core. Instructions would be helpful.

I remember seeing the Booster Cell User Manual posted somewhere but I think it should be easier to find. All the manuals should be available on the website, via QR code, linked in the order email, or printed and in the box. It shouldn't be this hard to find supporting documentation.

Overall, absolutely amazing product. I love it more than I imagined I would. Thank you and your team for all your hard work, your passion really shows. I know it's been a rocky road getting here and 2020/2021 were hard years to do business, yet alone launch. Keep the pace and keep pushing your limits, you can only go up from here. Looking forward to more from ThorZone!
Build review time!

Wow.. I'm so in love with this case. I'm finding it hard to just leave it on the desk.. I want to keep playing in it.

Here's my build album, I wish I was better at remembering to take pics as I built but there's still a bunch here.


Mjolnir R Stealth with x1 glass side panel
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black CPU Cooler
Asus ROG Strix x570-i
Patriot Viper Steel 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 RAM
Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB NVME
Gigabyte Geforce GT 1030 (on loan)
Corsair SF 750 W 80+ Platinum SFX PSU
Noctua A12x15 PWM chromax.black.swap 120mm Fan (x2)
Noctua NA-SYC1 chromax.black 4-pin Y-cables (x1)
Noctua NA-SAV2 chromax.black anti-vibration mounts

Overall, this is a beautiful case and super easy and fun to build in. Being able to build directly in the core without the shell in the way was a big perk, especially since it's so tightly packed. The ability to flip it to any side (including top or bottom) while you build made everything stress free.. between the quality and attention to design, I would absolutely recommend this case to anyone willing to spend a little cash for a stunning premium case.

With all that said.. Lets get to the play by play, because if you're gonna spend 20-30% of your budget on a case, you should know what your getting into. My goal for this review was to include absolutely NO MODS. All parts are store (or website) bought and no knowledge beyond PC building is needed. I'll share my no-mod solutions where I can, but in the end, there's at least one issue I can't resolve without a mod. So when I have a mod in mind, I'll share that too.


I wanna start, jokingly, by stating that I can tell it was designed in Sweden because everyone there is obsessed with allen screws, lol. I felt like the case should have come flat shipped with a free allen wrench. All joking aside, the allen screws strip easily and are sadly not magnetic (I think Alex said the coating is to blame for that). I can't count how many screws I dropped during the build. The directions also leave a lot to be desired. I wish I took notes on what was missing but honestly there was more missing than not.

Also worth mentioning right up front is that this is both a really tight case (small size comes at a price) and it feels like there's no thought to cable management, so it would 100% worth investing in custom cables. Or if you don't care about aesthetics, there does seem to be enough free space for all the extra cables, in an air cooled build at least.

First up, I installed the God Rays. In retrospect, I could have installed these after the board and had more clearance to tighten the screws, but I'm not sure how much that would have impeded the God Rays installation. This is the first place the guide gets vague. There's only one way to install them on the rails, so I proceeded blindly. Once mounted, you have to decide how to wire them. If you aren't using the Booster Cell, you have plenty of room on the front (SSD) side of the case for the extra long cross connect 3 pin cable. Not sure why it's so long; it could literally be half the length and still work. The connectors on the cross connect cable are flipped, i.e. not both facing the same direction, but you need them both facing the same way, or you have to twist the cable. Not the end of the world, but not the cleanest either. For now I twisted it, but it would be easy enough to pop the end off and flip it, or if you have the right crimping tools and supplies, you could shorten and flip the end for a cleaner connection. IMPORTANT: as Alex pointed out, this flip is intentional. DO NOT modify this cable unless you make sure the cables keep their intended orientation or you could fry your God Rays..

Still on the God Rays ( I spent a bunch of time here because there were no clear instructions) I had to move the cross connect cable to the back (or board end) because I plan to use the Booster Cell. I thought there was enough clearance to go under the spine, in line with the headers on the rails, but found out when sliding the shell on for a test that it pinches. So you have to wind over to a notch in the spine then to the other header, which is why I think they made the cable so long. Honestly this could have easily fit with a small notch right at the end of the spine to be directly across from the headers.

Skipping ahead to when I had the PSU installed, even the cable input from the board to the God Rays was extremely long and didn't feel like it had a natural route to the connector. I plan to spend a little more time cable managing in the future so maybe I can rectify this one by finding a better path.

After the God Rays was the board, which had it's own challenges. My experiences here could very well only reflect Asus x570-i boards, but I had to apply a decent amount of pressure to the board (towards the back, against the I/O shield) to get the holes to align, but once the 1st screw was in, it was good. The I/O shield isn't going anywhere, but it feels jammed in there. I wish it was recessed just a hair more. I'm not sure how big the tolerances are from board to board, but could a channel been used for the offset screws to allow micro adjustments? I don't even know if this would work, but it would be nice if it did. If not, it's not harming anything the way it is.

Before I moved on, I connected the riser to the board. But it wouldn't quite stretch far enough. The new and improved shorter risers are so form fit (to prevent snagging when being inserted into the shell) it doesn't make it to the connection. This has an easy fix, even if you have to deal with all those allen screws. I simply unscrewed the riser from the GPU end, shifted it enough to insert it into the board, and re-secured it back to the GPU side.. I also noticed here that the riser is offset (lateral with the board) about a quarter inch. This contributed to the difficulty getting the riser inserted to the board. I'm wondering if this is an ASUS ROG Strix x570-i issue or if they're all like this.

Once the board is secured, you'll want to install your PSU. The instructions tell you to install your GPU first, but if you have a long GPU you'll want to make sure you have the PSU bracket in the correct orientation first or it'll be blocked later. I also recommend attaching the bracket to your PSU and then mounting it into the core. I had minor issues tightening the screws due to the rail being in the way.

Installing the GPU was a breeze, I honestly can't add any real value here because my sad little 1030 is swimming in the space allotted. I will take a moment to point out the sick attention to detail on the design clearances here. There is literally no extra room on the riser to the board (riser was cut specifically to avoid a resistor on the board) and on the GPU bracket side where they literally left no room to spare. Check out the picture showing the PCIe slot adapter almost touches the power cord port housing.

When installing the fans, I used the Noctua anti-vibration mounts because I saw complaints about the screws scratching up the rails. These are extremely easy to use any the only issue I had was that the fan under the board was hard to squeeze in since the mounts don't allow the fans to be immediately flush. Easy fix, I unscrewed the rail to give me the extra room to be able to align and secure the fans before re-attaching the rail. I think I only undid one rail (board side and end) and the allen screw actually had a benefit here because the ball end of the allen wrench lets you screw at an angle.

This might be a good spot to mention that as I moved the core around I naturally wanted to grab it by the rails. Do whatever you can to resist this, especially the rails with the God Rays installed because they aren't sturdy enough to be handles. It would be nice if they were a little thicker to be able to handle the weight of a fully loaded core, but I could think of better uses for the precious interior clearance than thicker rails or handles.

Once the fans are in, I was ready to install the core into the shell.. only the fan mounts stick out. These cut easily with scissors and there's enough clearance to cut them and still fit into the shell without rubbing. I have to say, I'm not in love with Noctua's fan cables, they are pretty stiff and don't bend gracefully. I'll probably have to get custom fan cables too. BTW, I used a y-splitter to connect both fans to the single case fan header.

Lastly, You may be wondering where the Booster Cell is. This is the only piece I wasn't successful installing without a mod. First, I had no instructions for it. Surprisingly though, I found the instructions directly on Thor-zone.com with a careful Google search (https://thor-zone.com/manuals/TZ-BC1-UM_eng.pdf). But these too were missing critical information. So I installed the fan, intake like most cases because I don't want hot air blowing in my face, but now the fan cable doesn't reach the Booster Cell header.. unless I stretch it, but it won't fit into the shell like that. The cable extension included with all the Noctua fans is 13in long (and rigid) so I can't wrap that up and stuff it in the Cell. And I couldn't find a 5-6cm 4-pin extension anywhere online. I'll probably splice one of the Noctua cables to 5-6cm and call it done.

While trying to figure the Booster Cell out, I found a thread over on Reddit where Alex made a You-tube about how to test the Booster connections. I really don't think Alex gets enough credit for all he does. He may not be perfect, but he's on every site helping everyone the best he can.

To sum it all up. There was a ton that went into this case, and it shows. It's sad that the areas where that same attention was missed are getting more spotlight, but it's an absolutely amazing case and the quality far exceeds anything you can buy off the shelf. There doesn't appear to be much thought into cable management for the case, but this means custom cables will be king in it. I've stated before that a few more mm in any direction would allow more options (ex. bigger fans), but Thor Zone has definitely maximized the minimum case size. Maybe they'll release a Mjolnir XL that'll fil this ASUS GPUs, a bigger CPU cooler, 140mm fans, etc.. but for now I think they accomplished what they intended.

Thanks Thor Zone team!
 
Last edited:

AlexTzone

SFF Guru
Original poster
THOR ZONE
Sep 23, 2017
1,009
2,431
thor-zone.com
Hi @AlexTzone I am not sure if my emails to Thor Zone end up in your spam folder so I will now just ask here, do you have any idea about Order #2335-B2
Would be great if it was sent out before the next presale will hit.

Hello ,@AlexTzone , my orderid is #1916-B2 , Steel , and i want to know if the case in shipping or next time.

Heey guys, got great news for you! Today our freight forwarder picked up all the remaining cases, which includes both of you, and tracking numbers will be distributed next week :)

Do you know of any "pre-made" 90 degrees power cable?

I checked the clearance with my chonky straight power connector and it still has 10mm of room, so 90 degrees connector isn't a must.


@AlexTzone

Hi!
Quick question, how does an owner of te case order the new PCIE RISER + the BORG addon?

Did this work out for you? :)

Hello @AlexTzone , do you have specs for the pcie 4 riser ? (Length)

Yes it's 18cm double-reversed :)

Just received my Mjolnirs and I absolutely love them. No imperfections worthy to note but I do have a question about that mod for the psu bracket way back in this thread. Does the zip tie that holds the psu plug in place need to be cut and how much can the bracket raise to accommodate for more room for the fans below?

So happy to hear that!! Yes the zip-ties are just to keep the power cable in place during shipping, you can cut & throw them away. The PSU bracket can rise 10mm (or -10 if you mount it on the bottom so that the PSU gets flipped). The main thing about the +-10mm is to get more space for cables (if you need it) when the PSU if flipped upside down, because in the standard position we've already designed the PSU bracket to be as high up above the radiator/fans below as possible (without creating interference between the top panel and the power plug).

Build review time!

Wow.. I'm so in love with this case. I'm finding it hard to just leave it on the desk.. I want to keep playing in it.

Here's my build album, I wish I was better at remembering to take pics as I built but there's still a bunch here.


Mjolnir R Stealth with x1 glass side panel
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X
Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 chromax.black CPU Cooler
Asus ROG Strix x570-i
Patriot Viper Steel 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 RAM
Samsung 980 Pro 2 TB NVME
Gigabyte Geforce GT 1030 (on loan)
Corsair SF 750 W 80+ Platinum SFX PSU
Noctua A12x15 PWM chromax.black.swap 120mm Fan (x2)
Noctua NA-SYC1 chromax.black 4-pin Y-cables (x1)
Noctua NA-SAV2 chromax.black anti-vibration mounts

Overall, this is a beautiful case and super easy and fun to build in. Being able to build directly in the core without the shell in the way was a big perk, especially since it's so tightly packed. The ability to flip it to any side (including top or bottom) while you build made everything stress free.. between the quality and attention to design, I would absolutely recommend this case to anyone willing to spend a little cash for a stunning premium case.

With all that said.. Lets get to the play by play, because if you're gonna spend 20-30% of your budget on a case, you should know what your getting into. My goal for this review was to include absolutely NO MODS. All parts are store (or website) bought and no knowledge beyond PC building is needed. I'll share my no-mod solutions where I can, but in the end, there's at least one issue I can't resolve without a mod. So when I have a mod in mind, I'll share that too.


I wanna start, jokingly, by stating that I can tell it was designed in Sweden because everyone there is obsessed with allen screws, lol. I felt like the case should have come flat shipped with a free allen wrench. All joking aside, the allen screws strip easily and are sadly not magnetic (I think Alex said the coating is to blame for that). I can't count how many screws I dropped during the build. The directions also leave a lot to be desired. I wish I took notes on what was missing but honestly there was more missing than not.

Also worth mentioning right up front is that this is both a really tight case (small size comes at a price) and it feels like there's no thought to cable management, so it would 100% worth investing in custom cables. Or if you don't care about aesthetics, there does seem to be enough free space for all the extra cables, in an air cooled build at least.

First up, I installed the God Rays. In retrospect, I could have installed these after the board and had more clearance to tighten the screws, but I'm not sure how much that would have impeded the God Rays installation. This is the first place the guide gets vague. There's only one way to install them on the rails, so I proceeded blindly. Once mounted, you have to decide how to wire them. If you aren't using the Booster Cell, you have plenty of room on the front (SSD) side of the case for the extra long cross connect 3 pin cable. Not sure why it's so long; it could literally be half the length and still work. The connectors on the cross connect cable are flipped, i.e. not both facing the same direction, but you need them both facing the same way, or you have to twist the cable. Not the end of the world, but not the cleanest either. For now I twisted it, but it would be easy enough to pop the end off and flip it, or if you have the right crimping tools and supplies, you could shorten and flip the end for a cleaner connection.

Still on the God Rays ( I spent a bunch of time here because there were no clear instructions) I had to move the cross connect cable to the back (or board end) because I plan to use the Booster Cell. I thought there was enough clearance to go under the spine, in line with the headers on the rails, but found out when sliding the shell on for a test that it pinches. So you have to wind over to a notch in the spine then to the other header, which is why I think they made the cable so long. Honestly this could have easily fit with a small notch right at the end of the spine to be directly across from the headers.

Skipping ahead to when I had the PSU installed, even the cable input from the board to the God Rays was extremely long and didn't feel like it had a natural route to the connector. I plan to spend a little more time cable managing in the future so maybe I can rectify this one by finding a better path.

After the God Rays was the board, which had it's own challenges. My experiences here could very well only reflect Asus x570-i boards, but I had to apply a decent amount of pressure to the board (towards the back, against the I/O shield) to get the holes to align, but once the 1st screw was in, it was good. The I/O shield isn't going anywhere, but it feels jammed in there. I wish it was recessed just a hair more. I'm not sure how big the tolerances are from board to board, but could a channel been used for the offset screws to allow micro adjustments? I don't even know if this would work, but it would be nice if it did. If not, it's not harming anything the way it is.

Before I moved on, I connected the riser to the board. But it wouldn't quite stretch far enough. The new and improved shorter risers are so form fit (to prevent snagging when being inserted into the shell) it doesn't make it to the connection. This has an easy fix, even if you have to deal with all those allen screws. I simply unscrewed the riser from the GPU end, shifted it enough to insert it into the board, and re-secured it back to the GPU side.. I also noticed here that the riser is offset (lateral with the board) about a quarter inch. This contributed to the difficulty getting the riser inserted to the board. I'm wondering if this is an ASUS ROG Strix x570-i issue or if they're all like this.

Once the board is secured, you'll want to install your PSU. The instructions tell you to install your GPU first, but if you have a long GPU you'll want to make sure you have the PSU bracket in the correct orientation first or it'll be blocked later. I also recommend attaching the bracket to your PSU and then mounting it into the core. I had minor issues tightening the screws due to the rail being in the way.

Installing the GPU was a breeze, I honestly can't add any real value here because my sad little 1030 is swimming in the space allotted. I will take a moment to point out the sick attention to detail on the design clearances here. There is literally no extra room on the riser to the board (riser was cut specifically to avoid a resistor on the board) and on the GPU bracket side where they literally left no room to spare. Check out the picture showing the PCIe slot adapter almost touches the power cord port housing.

When installing the fans, I used the Noctua anti-vibration mounts because I saw complaints about the screws scratching up the rails. These are extremely easy to use any the only issue I had was that the fan under the board was hard to squeeze in since the mounts don't allow the fans to be immediately flush. Easy fix, I unscrewed the rail to give me the extra room to be able to align and secure the fans before re-attaching the rail. I think I only undid one rail (board side and end) and the allen screw actually had a benefit here because the ball end of the allen wrench lets you screw at an angle.

This might be a good spot to mention that as I moved the core around I naturally wanted to grab it by the rails. Do whatever you can to resist this, especially the rails with the God Rays installed because they aren't sturdy enough to be handles. It would be nice if they were a little thicker to be able to handle the weight of a fully loaded core, but I could think of better uses for the precious interior clearance than thicker rails or handles.

Once the fans are in, I was ready to install the core into the shell.. only the fan mounts stick out. These cut easily with scissors and there's enough clearance to cut them and still fit into the shell without rubbing. I have to say, I'm not in love with Noctua's fan cables, they are pretty stiff and don't bend gracefully. I'll probably have to get custom fan cables too. BTW, I used a y-splitter to connect both fans to the single case fan header.

Lastly, You may be wondering where the Booster Cell is. This is the only piece I wasn't successful installing without a mod. First, I had no instructions for it. Surprisingly though, I found the instructions directly on Thor-zone.com with a careful Google search (https://thor-zone.com/manuals/TZ-BC1-UM_eng.pdf). But these too were missing critical information. So I installed the fan, intake like most cases because I don't want hot air blowing in my face, but now the fan cable doesn't reach the Booster Cell header.. unless I stretch it, but it won't fit into the shell like that. The cable extension included with all the Noctua fans is 13in long (and rigid) so I can't wrap that up and stuff it in the Cell. And I couldn't find a 5-6cm 4-pin extension anywhere online. I'll probably splice one of the Noctua cables to 5-6cm and call it done.

While trying to figure the Booster Cell out, I found a thread over on Reddit where Alex made a You-tube about how to test the Booster connections. I really don't think Alex gets enough credit for all he does. He may not be perfect, but he's on every site helping everyone the best he can.

To sum it all up. There was a ton that went into this case, and it shows. It's sad that the areas where that same attention was missed are getting more spotlight, but it's an absolutely amazing case and the quality far exceeds anything you can buy off the shelf. There doesn't appear to be much thought into cable management for the case, but this means custom cables will be king in it. I've stated before that a few more mm in any direction would allow more options (ex. bigger fans), but Thor Zone has definitely maximized the minimum case size. Maybe they'll release a Mjolnir XL that'll fil this ASUS GPUs, a bigger CPU cooler, 140mm fans, etc.. but for now I think they accomplished what they intended.

Thanks Thor Zone team!

Such a wonderful read, thanks a lot for all the kind words and review! Absolutely awesome build you've got going here 😍

As for the riser, I wrote about it earlier but one needs to do exactly what you did, i.e. unscrew it from the spine -> connect to mobo -> screw it down to the spine again. Ensures that there's not slack, but a bit of PITA to install haha. We need to update the instructions manual for this change :)

VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT flip the Godrays plugs (on the cable that connects both Godrays to each other), they are supposed to look like that, otherwise you will accidentally short the lead 5V to the ground and burn one of the strips.
 

RE4MATT3D

Trash Compacter
Jan 11, 2021
54
58
VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT flip the Godrays plugs (on the cable that connects both Godrays to each other), they are supposed to look like that, otherwise you will accidentally short the lead 5V to the ground and burn one of the strips.
Thanks for pointing this out. I think I knew that but it was an oversight on my part. That would have been a disaster 😱.

Edit: redacted the mod suggestion in my review and added your warning as a disclaimer. Don't need someone frying a God Ray because of my review.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: N9neBreak3r

N9neBreak3r

Airflow Optimizer
Jul 17, 2020
308
408
My experiences here could very well only reflect Asus x570-i boards, but I had to apply a decent amount of pressure to the board (towards the back, against the I/O shield) to get the holes to align, but once the 1st screw was in, it was good. The I/O shield isn't going anywhere, but it feels jammed in there. I wish it was recessed just a hair more. I'm not sure how big the tolerances are from board to board, but could a channel been used for the offset screws to allow micro adjustments? I don't even know if this would work, but it would be nice if it did. If not, it's not harming anything the way it is.
I had the same challenge with my asus x570i board. Exactly the same as you, the holes didn't line up with the standoffs and I had to push the board towards the I/O plate quite hard as well. Great idea about a channel to offset the mobo standoffs! My guess is that asus' I/O shield is the culprit as to why the standoffs didn't line up. The I/O shield is too thick and causes the problem, hopefully asus uses pre-installed I/O shields from now on!

The cable extension included with all the Noctua fans is 13in long (and rigid) so I can't wrap that up and stuff it in the Cell.

Here's what I did:


Zoom in to see how I wrapped noctua's cable extension into the boostercell channel.
 

RE4MATT3D

Trash Compacter
Jan 11, 2021
54
58
I had the same challenge with my asus x570i board. Exactly the same as you, the holes didn't line up with the standoffs and I had to push the board towards the I/O plate quite hard as well. Great idea about a channel to offset the mobo standoffs! My guess is that asus' I/O shield is the culprit as to why the standoffs didn't line up. The I/O shield is too thick and causes the problem, hopefully asus uses pre-installed I/O shields from now on!



Here's what I did:


Zoom in to see how I wrapped noctua's cable extension into the boostercell channel.
Looks like yours is mounted as exhaust, but I will try wrapping the 13in cable in there. If it worked for you, it should work for me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: N9neBreak3r

Artimunor

Caliper Novice
Oct 14, 2021
22
14
Heey guys, got great news for you! Today our freight forwarder picked up all the remaining cases, which includes both of you, and tracking numbers will be distributed next week :)

Very good to hear!

My last hard-to-get component (ddr5 memory) is also on it's way after being on order for many weeks.
With a bit of luck i will be tinkering away during the xmass holidays!
And can make my young nephew happy with my old rig.

Also very nice to have found this thread with people sharing information how to build these cases.
Was wondering if anyone knows compatible socket 1700 CPU liquid coolers?

Would the ROG STRIX LC II 280 fit inside the case or is the 240 needed? (And I understand one ventilator has to be dismounted in order to make it fit right?)

However would liquid cooling even make sense for a 12600K CPU? Or is aircooling more than enough? (However the Alpenföhn Black Ridge does not seem to have a socket 1700 version yet?)
Also using a modest 3060 Ti graphics card (Could get my hands on an Asus TUF which should fit by sanding down the risers or so I have red in this thread)

My list of components so far:

[ARRIVED]
- Corsair SF750
- ASUS ROG Strix Z690-I
- Intel Core i5-12600K
- Samsung 980 Pro 2TB
- ASUS TUF Gaming GeForce RTX 3060 Ti V2 OC

[INBOUND]
- Crucial - DDR5 32GB 4,800MHz

[TBD]
- CPU cooling
- Casefans
- Custom cables?
 
  • Like
Reactions: N9neBreak3r

N9neBreak3r

Airflow Optimizer
Jul 17, 2020
308
408
Would the ROG STRIX LC II 280 fit inside the case or is the 240 needed?
Neither of those will fit. The only 240mm radiator I know of that fits in Mjolnir is the hanjiang 240, but I isn't a good option due to how thin it is and the fact that you can only use one fan on it inside Mjolnir.
I'd reccomend a 120mm aio for your 12600k, setting the fan on the radiator to intake and the other top mounted fan as exhaust. And use the booster cell fan as exhaust. Your definetly going to have to use the performance side panel for the gpu side, but you could definetly use the glass panel on the cpu side if you want.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Artimunor

Artimunor

Caliper Novice
Oct 14, 2021
22
14
Also upgraded with the bracket and the Borg!

Meanwhile does the pci-e 3 bracket pose any compatibility issues?
Or is it usable with latest gen vid cards?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wiliker

Jooff

Chassis Packer
Jul 16, 2021
16
10
has anyone found a reputable and reliable custom cable producer that has cables for most of the SFX psu for thorzone? Im still waiting for PSlate customs to put out their offering for the thorzone but i desperately need some cables for some quality cable management
 

N9neBreak3r

Airflow Optimizer
Jul 17, 2020
308
408
has anyone found a reputable and reliable custom cable producer that has cables for most of the SFX psu for thorzone? Im still waiting for PSlate customs to put out their offering for the thorzone but i desperately need some cables for some quality cable management
Just buy the FormD T1 custom cables from Pslate. That's what I have in my Mjolnir, and they fit perfect! I have my PSU in the standard non flipped orientation, I do not know how they will fit if you flip your psu. I also bought the standard psu orientation FormD T1 cables from Pslate, at the time I bought them they offered them in flipped and standard orientation. If you want pictures of how the cables look/fit in Mjolnir just let me know and I'll post them! Hope this helps!
 

CptShiner

Efficiency Noob
Dec 1, 2019
5
12
Just buy the FormD T1 custom cables from Pslate. That's what I have in my Mjolnir, and they fit perfect! I have my PSU in the standard non flipped orientation, I do not know how they will fit if you flip your psu. I also bought the standard psu orientation FormD T1 cables from Pslate, at the time I bought them they offered them in flipped and standard orientation. If you want pictures of how the cables look/fit in Mjolnir just let me know and I'll post them! Hope this helps!
The cheapest place I could find for me living in Australia was Geeekstore.

Pslate are so overpriced for what you get. I could get a single 24pin cable from Pslate for $44 + $38 shipping (USD) or I could get an entire set of cables from Geeekstore for $25 + $20 shipping (USD) shipping, such a massive difference in price, and yes you can specify whatever length you want with the cables.
 
Last edited:

RE4MATT3D

Trash Compacter
Jan 11, 2021
54
58
Looks like yours is mounted as exhaust, but I will try wrapping the 13in cable in there. If it worked for you, it should work for me.
After looking into @N9neBreak3r 's suggestion for the fan cable, I was able to make the Booster Cell work without any mods.. Thanks N9neBreak3r!


It took some careful cramming, the 13in Noctua fan cable does in fact fit inside the Booster Cell without any mods. I might one day make a 55mm cable but for now, it's out of sight, out of mind.

The 10 pin contact board goes on with no fuss and as usual, Thor Zone gives you plenty of cable length. I decided, despite naturally wanting to cross the PSU and run the cables between the PSU and board (shortest run), that it was cleaner to drop down between the end and PSU. This keeps cables off the PSU exhaust and I was able to tie them up with the main cables under the PSU.

Because the x570-i only has 2 fan headers, I had to use another Y-cable. The fan below the board is paired with the CPU cooler and the Booster Cell fan is paired with the other case fan. I was able to take advantage of the space between the fans to hide the extra cables. So far the only issues sliding the core in and out have been the bulk of the PSU cables and they just need a little help staying in during insertion.

One constructive comment I'd like to make regarding the use of the Booster Cell. Since the power button is now in the front, you either need to coil up and hide the length of 2 wire cable from the rear power button, or remove it. If the design is to have folks leave the PCB/button in place, a quick disconnect rather than a hardwired cable would be nice. I can't imagine having to leave any length of unused cable in a case so small so I opted to remove it, only to find that the PCB is the only thing holding in the physical button. I am going to 3D print a solid button/board "blank" to fill the hole.

Lastly, I have so many extra screws right now, you probably could have gotten away with requiring us to reuse front panel screws to mount the 10 pin, but I'll never complain about having extra screws, especially as easily as these strip.

@AlexTzone your team made one dam sexy case! All I need now is some Thor Zone branded case wipes to keep it polished and pretty, because I can't keep my hands off it!

P.S. I had to set the RGB to blue/purple to appease the Mrs. so she would let me keep it on the main desk.. lol
 

TKizzle

Minimal Tinkerer
New User
Dec 20, 2021
4
3
Hi everyone, I got my mjolnir a few days back and can't wait to build in it!
What I want is to build a pc that will still be viable in years to come and I want it to be a gaming PC. I don't have the skills to build a custom loop or anything.. so the options i have are either air cooling or AIO cooling.

I've had my eyes on the Ryzen 5900x as my CPU of choice and wondered whether the 120mm AIO's will be enough to cool such a CPU?

Thanks in advance!