Measures of the tubing pass-throughs of M1?

madmax

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Apr 17, 2019
12
0
I'd appreciate if someone could tell me the following measures of the M1's tubing pass-throughs at the back, as these specs are quite difficult to find.
  1. What is the diameter of the pass-throughs without the rubber grommet?
  2. What is the distance between the pass-throughs, center to center?
I'm looking for this information because I'm wondering if there is a D5 top reservoir available that can be mounted at the back of the M1 in a way that hard tubing could be fed straight through the pass-throughs into the case. Watercool's Heatkiller Tube D5 seems so be a suitable candidate, but it's ports are very close to each other.
 
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madmax

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Apr 17, 2019
12
0
SFF Network really is a great place... receiving a quick and complete answer, and even from the creator himself. Thank you very much :)
 

MSKS

Efficiency Noob
May 3, 2019
6
6
SFF Network really is a great place... receiving a quick and complete answer, and even from the creator himself. Thank you very much :)
I had the same thought about Watercool's Heatkiller Tube D5 combo on the outside rear of M1 recently... 😀 Did you end up into some conclusion about it? Do you think it could fit? Other alternatives based on your investigation?
 

madmax

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Apr 17, 2019
12
0
Hey! Well, no real conclusion, but some thoughts. I've got a Heatkiller Tube D5 here, but it's integrated in my loop (Not in M1). I'm thinking about draining it sometime next week to measure the distance of it's ports. But there are some issues:
  1. The ports of the heatkiller tube are not on the same level, the inlet port is a few millimeters higher than the outlet port. I also think that the ports are closer together than 32mm.
  2. This leads to the next problem: My plan is to use 2 bulkheads mounted directly to the Heatkiller Tube and the M1. So, no soft or hard tubing between reservoir and case. In view of the above mentioned deviations, I'm not sure if this is possible. In addition, they can't carry the load of course, the reservoir must be additionally mounted to the case.
  3. The diameter of the M1's pass-throughs is too high for most bulkheads. 25mm is the diameter of the most bulkheads on the market, which is obviously not enough. Only the bulkheads from Phanteks have 26mm in diameter. But the large diameter of the pass-throughs could also help with the problems in point 1 & 2.
  4. With the in/out ports on the same level as the M1's pass-throughs, the Heatkiller Tube (and especially the D5 underneath) will reach pretty far down, about 7cm (or more). This means, most of the GPUs display connectors will be blocked. I think that only the leftmost connector could be used, maybe the two leftmost (Only talking about HDMI and DP here, everything else is too big and probably blocked completely).
  5. The Heatkiller Tube D5 is also pretty high! Even the small version. Maybe so high that it's going to block the power connector on the top of the back of the M1. This means that the thick real glass tube and the aluminium struts of the reservoir may have to be shortened. They must be shortened to exactly the same length and cut very straight, otherwise the reservoir will no longer be leakproof.
You see, there are a lot of problems in the way. I guess the only way to figure this out is to test it! Unfortunately I don't own a NCase M1 and it probably takes months until you can buy them again.

But I definetely haven't seen any other reservoir/D5 combo yet which could fit better for this than the Heatkiller Tube D5.
 

MSKS

Efficiency Noob
May 3, 2019
6
6
Hey! Well, no real conclusion, but some thoughts. I've got a Heatkiller Tube D5 here, but it's integrated in my loop (Not in M1). I'm thinking about draining it sometime next week to measure the distance of it's ports. But there are some issues:
  1. The ports of the heatkiller tube are not on the same level, the inlet port is a few millimeters higher than the outlet port. I also think that the ports are closer together than 32mm.
  2. This leads to the next problem: My plan is to use 2 bulkheads mounted directly to the Heatkiller Tube and the M1. So, no soft or hard tubing between reservoir and case. In view of the above mentioned deviations, I'm not sure if this is possible. In addition, they can't carry the load of course, the reservoir must be additionally mounted to the case.
  3. The diameter of the M1's pass-throughs is too high for most bulkheads. 25mm is the diameter of the most bulkheads on the market, which is obviously not enough. Only the bulkheads from Phanteks have 26mm in diameter. But the large diameter of the pass-throughs could also help with the problems in point 1 & 2.
  4. With the in/out ports on the same level as the M1's pass-throughs, the Heatkiller Tube (and especially the D5 underneath) will reach pretty far down, about 7cm (or more). This means, most of the GPUs display connectors will be blocked. I think that only the leftmost connector could be used, maybe the two leftmost (Only talking about HDMI and DP here, everything else is too big and probably blocked completely).
  5. The Heatkiller Tube D5 is also pretty high! Even the small version. Maybe so high that it's going to block the power connector on the top of the back of the M1. This means that the thick real glass tube and the aluminium struts of the reservoir may have to be shortened. They must be shortened to exactly the same length and cut very straight, otherwise the reservoir will no longer be leakproof.
You see, there are a lot of problems in the way. I guess the only way to figure this out is to test it! Unfortunately I don't own a NCase M1 and it probably takes months until you can buy them again.

But I definetely haven't seen any other reservoir/D5 combo yet which could fit better for this than the Heatkiller Tube D5.
Man this is a very detailed analysis! I hope you will make it and I am really curious about any new findings. All the best!
 
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madmax

Cable Smoosher
Original poster
Apr 17, 2019
12
0
Thanks! If I really realize this project, there will definitely be photos (either here or I post a link) and tips for those who are interested.