Lukos 17' 144hz help with buying/deciding not to.

Discussion in 'Hardware' started by Haawq, Feb 5, 2019.

  1. Haawq

    Haawq Efficiency Noob
    Thread Starter

    Hey guys. I'm getting desperate about getting a monitor for the road. I sleep in hotels almost more than I do at home.

    I'm not going to get a gaming laptop.

    I've been thinking about getting the lukos on taobao. But I have no clue how to order safely with the proper colors etc.

    Also I'm looking for other suggestions fitting this: 17-21 inches. 120-240 Hz. Sub 5ms.

    Also worth mentioning, I can fly to China to pick up whatever I order.

    Any help /suggestions on here?

    Thank you
  2. thewizzard1

    thewizzard1 Cable-Tie Ninja
    Bronze Supporter

    Could you link to the laptop you're looking at?
    I don't know much about that brand, but you can get pretty nice (and reasonably priced) Clevo laptops, with 17" 144Hz panels. I don't think there are many out there yet with better than 1080p144 / 4k60 panels.
  3. Kmpkt

    Kmpkt Innovation through Miniaturization

    Pretty sure he said he's not getting a gaming laptop. I presume this needs to be carry-on friendly? Can you link what you're travelling with? Might also be worth checking out the Wallye Tactik bas and going with a 21" monitor.
  4. Haawq

    Haawq Efficiency Noob
    Thread Starter

    Not looking for a laptop
  5. Haawq

    Haawq Efficiency Noob
    Thread Starter

    Yeah the 17-21 inches like I said. Flying the airplane myself so I can go a little outside of whatever the restrictions from airlines are. But I don't wanna look like a jerk at the airport with a ultra wide..
    thewizzard1 likes this.
  6. Haawq

    Haawq Efficiency Noob
    Thread Starter

    Anyone have anything?

  7. mantide

    mantide Trash Compacter

    I made myself a 1440p 17.3 inch 144hz display using brand new parts from taobao and the cost is less than $200. The driver board also supports HDR and FreeSync II. I designed the monitor shell using crilic with CAD and ask s factory to laser it for me at a cost $9 including shipping lol. Still can’t believe the price.
    Bjornyyy likes this.
  8. rcbuggy88

    rcbuggy88 Efficiency Noob

    what control board did you use and also you should make a bunch:cool: The lukos on haobao is $780 sooo...
  9. Valantar

    Valantar SFF Lingo Aficionado

    I've been looking at making something like this myself for travel (and couch gaming when the TV is in use), so I'd love to hear how you made yours, @mantide. I'd be interested in going smaller than 17" (there are some nice-looking 13" 120Hz IPS panels on Ebay for cheap, and I don't care much about slow response times (I'm used to gaming on a Dell U2711!)), but any tips on how you got it working would be excellent. From what research I've done, the most difficult thing seems to be getting a datasheet for the panel so that whoever supplies the controller board can program it properly (I've been in contact with some Alibaba suppliers, who all seem very helpful, but can't do much without a panel datasheet). How did you get yours made?
  10. mantide

    mantide Trash Compacter

    Valantar and ECHO like this.
  11. Tazpr

    Tazpr Cable-Tie Ninja

    That's freaking awesome, did you have a build log or parts list of what you used for this?
    Would be totally interested in trying something similar but don't know what to begin haha I didn't realise this was possible!
  12. Valantar

    Valantar SFF Lingo Aficionado

    Looks nice! My only complaint would be not sticking to the SFF ethos - a lot of "wasted" space in that case ;)
    On a more serious note, it's a shame about that one tall capacitor, otherwise it would be a very nice and thin board - the ones I've seen have been thicker/have had taller components. Particularly impressed with that low-profile transformer (?) on the left side of the board. Suppose the cap could be desoldered and replaced with one lying flat across the board if needed, or just made to fit very snugly against the case. If I ever get around to making one of these I'd likely go for a slimmed-down case design, even if that would make it more complicated, potentially more fragile, and force me to make a "lump" on one side of the chassis to fit the board, as a slimmer design would make it that much easier to fit in a bag or suitcase. Decisions, decisions ... I'd likely spend months just figuring out my design, tbh. :p

    Question time:
    - Where did you get the acrylic laser cut? Locally?
    - Does the board support FS over HDMI, or only DP?
    - Is the red connector behind the power jack for power input (if, say, I wanted to rig this up for battery power)?
    - The spec sheet says "3.5mm earphone input" AND "... output". Which one is the jack, an input, or for headphones? And I gather there are on-board speaker headers - which ones are they?
    - The spec sheet also says "DP out". Is that true? Is one DP an input, and the other an output (with the board thus being an MST hub for the second DP signal to pass through)? Or is the spec sheet wrong?
    - Do you have some sort of stand/mount for this? Are the holes on the rear for a VESA mount?