Prototype KIBO K1 DIY Clean Minimal 3D Print Optimized Case

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robbee

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Sep 24, 2016
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PLA suffices in terms of thermal stability as Radiators mostly don’t reach temperatures higher than 60 C
Hey, I can offer some insight as I have made a couple of cases with PLA from different high quality manufacturers like Prusament and Extrudr. I can safely say that PLA is not the way to go. While its glass temperature may be around 60C, it will still warp over time if exposed consequent to much lower temperatures.

I've had 6mm thick parts warp over time being inside a case with a simple Haswell i3 and a 1050ti while not being near any radiator. This was after about 6 months of usage. I've also had parts that were near the backplate of a 3080 warping after a couple of weeks, although the backplate was nowhere near 60C.

Glass temperature is not the only metric to look at IMO when deciding on temperature resistance of a filament used to print computer cases. It only tells you how hot you can go for the case to instantly loose stability, but nothing about stability over time.

On a more positive note, I also have an ABS case which shows absolutely no signs of warping after 2 years so ASA should be equally good!
 

Kiborato

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Jun 3, 2021
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Hey, I can offer some insight as I have made a couple of cases with PLA from different high quality manufacturers like Prusament and Extrudr. I can safely say that PLA is not the way to go. While its glass temperature may be around 60C, it will still warp over time if exposed consequent to much lower temperatures.

I've had 6mm thick parts warp over time being inside a case with a simple Haswell i3 and a 1050ti while not being near any radiator. This was after about 6 months of usage. I've also had parts that were near the backplate of a 3080 warping after a couple of weeks, although the backplate was nowhere near 60C.

Glass temperature is not the only metric to look at IMO when deciding on temperature resistance of a filament used to print computer cases. It only tells you how hot you can go for the case to instantly loose stability, but nothing about stability over time.

On a more positive note, I also have an ABS case which shows absolutely no signs of warping after 2 years so ASA should be equally good!

Thank you robbee for your know-how.
I myself am intrigued by your experience in 3D-printed cases😀.

🤔 I used "Extrudr PLA NX-2" for my previous Prototype.
After disassembly, I couldn’t find any warped parts after 1 months of extensive CPU&GPU rendering tasks, mainly fluid simulation work.
Average 79 C CPU temp(3900x 240mm AIO)
GPU has a blower-style cooler, heat will be evacuated immediately

Second prototype will be made out of ASA, with the thought of a longer lifespan.

I will revise my last statement of the material recommendation of PLA:
  • PLA suffices in terms of thermal stability as Radiators mostly don’t reach temperatures higher than 60 C
    • on the note of Filament-quality, pls mind the cheaper ones and go for suppliers that offer datasheets of material properties, where thermal resistance is higher than 45C
    • expected lifespan +5 years (without constant UV stress; e.g. Sun)
  • PLA will warp after extensive Hardware usage, resulting in warped parts
    • negative case pressure recommended
    • use at your own discretion
    • expected lifespan +2 months😣
 

robbee

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Sep 24, 2016
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Hey @Kiborato , reading my post again, I may have been overly negative about PLA. Looking at the actual parts you're printing, I think the most critical are the ones that make the spine inside the case. They will endure the highest temperature and have to carry the most weight, while also being the smallest parts. These ones probable should be printed in ASA or at least PETG.

The shell parts and top+bottom will be a lot cooler and are probably fine in PLA.
 
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morj

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Hey @Kiborato , reading my post again, I may have been overly negative about PLA. Looking at the actual parts you're printing, I think the most critical are the ones that make the spine inside the case. They will endure the highest temperature and have to carry the most weight, while also being the smallest parts. These ones probable should be printed in ASA or at least PETG.

The shell parts and top+bottom will be a lot cooler and are probably fine in PLA.

I had a 5.5L case fully made of PLA for several months, experienced no warping or melting whatsoever. In my opinion, if you don't have hot parts right up to the plastic, you are good. So just make sure you have a cutout in the spine behind the CPU, a cutout in the spine for the rear M.2 if your board has one, etc.
 
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Kiborato

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Jun 3, 2021
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Hey @Kiborato , reading my post again, I may have been overly negative about PLA. Looking at the actual parts you're printing, I think the most critical are the ones that make the spine inside the case. They will endure the highest temperature and have to carry the most weight, while also being the smallest parts. These ones probable should be printed in ASA or at least PETG.

The shell parts and top+bottom will be a lot cooler and are probably fine in PLA.
&
I had a 5.5L case fully made of PLA for several months, experienced no warping or melting whatsoever. In my opinion, if you don't have hot parts right up to the plastic, you are good. So just make sure you have a cutout in the spine behind the CPU, a cutout in the spine for the rear M.2 if your board has one, etc.
Thank you for your Feedback and Insight! 😀
I will change it to a parts-differentiated material recommendation:


RED Spine-parts are recommended to be printed with ABS, ASA, PETG or other thermal resistant materials
WHITE Shell-parts have no material-restrictions


More about the print:​



Base configuration 89h + 2x 20mm Module 32h = 121h​



Printing-time with the following settings:
Layer height: 0.2mm
Wall thickness: 1.2mm
Top&Bottom thickness: 1mm
Infill: 30%
Printing speed: 50mm/s
 
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Kiborato

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Jun 3, 2021
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K1 1. Prototype disassembly​

I got all the parts printed out for the second prototype, so I got all the Hardware out of the old one.


I can not promise when I will post the next update. SOON!😇

RIP

 
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Kiborato

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Jun 3, 2021
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K1 2. Prototype​


zoom in!

Expactations vs Reality​

Renders are very easy to create and are usefull to visualize a project in its early stages.
But they do not mirror the flaws and cosmetic defects, which will surface during 3d printing.

SOooo... --> DISCLAIMER/WARNING: Take past & future Renders with a spoon of salt!

Here are some examples for cosmetic defects that will occur during 3D printing:

For your information: most of these defects can be corrected through sanding or ironing with a soldering iron.

2. Prototype summary​


Printing with ASA this time brought me lots of troubles, mainly because of the high temperature printing.
I was met with a lot of lacking bed-adhesion and underextrusion problems, resulting in lot of scrapped parts & wasted time😭.
What I learned: never save on bed-adhesion glue-sticks!😑

In conclusion this "Project" has mainly four chapters:
1. Printing
If you trust your 3D printer😒 you could print everything out in a week of time, initiating a print every 12 hours.
12 Prints x 30 min initiating time + 2x 60min scheduled maintaince =
8h
2. Processing😞 BTW I skipped this part
Freshly printed parts always have some small defects.
You have the option to sand them down, which is very cost effective, but time-consuming(15 min per part ~3h).
Second Option: use an electric hand sander ~1h.
TIP: Assemble the Case before Sanding --> sand only protruding defects --> uniformity


Third Option: use your (unavailable) Woodwork-(200€), NC-(500€) or CNC-router(2000€) with a flush trim bit <1h. I want a CNC too
3. Having Fun Assembling🥳
Now you have all the needed parts and you can start assembling your case.
4. Modding😗
- Want to add another Radiator? Print yourself an expansion module!
- Want to change the look of the case? Design yourself your sidepanels!
you got the hang out of it!

I will put the printfiles online after some small tweaks.😏
I plan to dissassemble the case to make a step by step Assembly video at the end of this month.👀

Printtime: ~110 hours
Printsettings:
- Layerheight: 0.2mm​
- Bottom/Top-thickness: 0.8mm​
- Wallthickness: 1.2mm​
- Innerwall Flow: 102%​
- max Speed: 50mm/s​
- Infill: 30%​

Material-list(Case only)


necessary rigid & aesthetic
Base Module
Filament
~570g(ASA)=700g(PLA)

M3 x6mm 24 36
M3 x10mm 20 28
M3 x14-20mm 4 4
M3 x6mm insert 0 30
M3 x6mm standoff 4 4
6-32 x6 HDD screw 4 6
6-32 x6 hexagonal head 0 1
Sidepanels (two sides)
Filament
~130g(ASA)=160g(PLA)

6x3mm cylindric magnets 16 20
10mm Nickel/Steel band 1.2m 1.2m
Expansion Module
Filament
20mm:
~90g(ASA)=100g(PLA)
10mm:
~50g(ASA)=62g(PLA)

M3 x10mm 4 12
Radiator Mounting Screws
M3 x6mm 4 8

Fan Mounting Screws
15mm Fan:

M3 x20mm 2 4
25mm Fan:
M3 x10mm 2 4
Countersunk Screws if not mentioned otherwise

Necessary Tools:
2mm Allen-key
Philips-key
Superglue
Solder Iron for inserts

Gallery​


6mm Honeycomb Sidepanel


28 inch monitor for reference

 
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Kiborato

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Jun 3, 2021
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K1 2. Prototype free Files​

Before I fall in to the Spiral of endless prototyping😅, I will share my Prototype stl-Files with you!

You can get the Files here on cults3d for free.
Prusa Printers
Current specs:
SFX&SFX-L PSU
Variation 1 CPU-Clearance: 64mm / GPU thickness: 44mm
Variation 2 CPU-Clearance: 65mm / GPU thickness: 43mm for NH-L9x65
Variation 3 CPU-Clearance: 49mm / GPU thickness: 59mm
Added Versions with non-requirement of threaded inserts
Warning: if you dont add inserts in the specific parts, it may split apart the layers of the part.​
You can notice the splitting apart in the 1st prototyp, where I didn’t use inserts.​
If u want to start printing, Print the Parts marked in white first except the Backplate!

Added a German Desription to cults3d

With the addition of non-requirement of threaded inserts, I consider the Kibo K1-lite File completed!

Note that this is only the Prototype!
I may make drastic changes to the design In future iterations!
But I will try to make a majority of the parts backwards compatible! (main-Beam, Hats, Side-&Front-panel

A peek what I am working at:


This will be the 3rd Iteration
 
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Kiborato

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Jun 3, 2021
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K1 2. Prototype small side-dishes​

Since Prototyping the K1 I had some Ideas that I wanted to do.
Here are some results:

1. Rainbow-Puke​

I am honestly not a fan of RGB, I like monochrom lights more.
So here you go for either of both teams.



2. Floating lines​

This one involves a bit of creativity 😗.
The idea is having a background mesh for form-stability and a second layer, which you can design to your wishes.
The second layer can be emphasized through contrasting paint, in this case Gold on Matte-black Mesh.
Generally all black on white designs(Text, cartoon/manga characters, geometric lines ...) can be realized with this method.



You can find these under Sidepanels: Two-tone-Squares
inspiration marshall speakers.
 
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