Prototype jottwehh 3.99l

[jottwehh]

After reading about the Hdplex 300W AC-DC a couple of weeks ago, I attempted to design my own case.
I started studying @Aibohphobia s STX160.0 build "guide" I started designing my Case, but honestly I wasn't feeling comfortable with all these metal bend radius stuff, and was afraid of the manufacturing cost....
So I started designing it in a 2D version, by using @Thehack s 3D Printed Mod Corners for 2D Panel Construction.
He was very kind sending me corners for a 1.5mm side panel version and after purchasing 20 of those corners for like 8$ I thought “that's the way to go".
I never did any research on 3d printing before, but after a while I thought "hey lets try to print a skeleton and simply add the 2D side panels.


(don't wonder about the hardware, these are all just models out of our resource section for better imagination)

Specs:
205mm x 195mm x 100mm = 3.99l
m-ITX MoBo
GPU up to 175mm
dual 92mm 15mm fan
internal HDPlex 300W/250W DC-ATX
internal HDPlex 300W AC-DC
no internal SSD (I've got the Asus strix 270i, so I've got space for 2x m.2 SSD and was thinking about adding space for a SSD, but it doesn't felt right, since like 80%of a 2.5” SSD is empty...)

So I'm not ready and currently finishing up the design. I am welcome to feedback.
Next step is ordering the prototype and If it's OK I will order the side panels of 1.5mm anodized black aluminum.

 

[zovc]

I like the idea a lot! One issue I see with the design is that "most" motherboards will have RAM sticks blocking your fans' airflow.

 

[|||]

Having the power connector coming out the side doesn't really have a clean look to it...perhaps you can point in downward and have a space on the bottom to let the cord plug up into it with a slot for the cord in the back?

And do you need to fans in the front? Could you use down wash from the CPU and GPU fans to cool the power components? Other cases like the S4 Mini only rely on the internal air movement by the component fans and do not need dedication system fans.

 

[zovc]

I definitely agree that the AC-in would look a lot cleaner on the same panel as the rest of the computer's I/O.

 

[Jonny727272]

It looks like an awesome start and I'm super excited to see people building around the hdplex 300w AC-DC converter.

 

[Thehack]

Hey glad you like them. Let me know if they turn out okay. I got some curious questions...

Why not use an HD-Plex 160 instead?
How will you handle the middle board?

The issue with printing a 3d skeleton is it becomes very cost prohibitive if you don't have free access to 3d printing. It's also very time consuming to 3D print such a large chassis, and if the 3d printer messes up, it is a large setback. Do you have access to 3d printing?

 

[CC Ricers]

Very cool concept. I also had the idea of taking the Hutzy XS layout but using a AC-DC from HD-PLEX and putting it right beneath the video card. Seems like a natural place to put it in.

One major problem I see is with the placement of the 300W DC-DC board. Most of the power connectors get in the way of the motherboard, and it looks impossible to plug the cables in there. You could make the case 2-3cm taller to accommodate the board, but that will also get it over the 4L limit. I wonder how you'd feel about making the case shorter from front to back and sacrifice the front fans? (Or at least allow slim fans only)

 

[Thehack]

Very cool concept. I also had the idea of taking the Hutzy XS layout but using a AC-DC from HD-PLEX and putting it right beneath the video card. Seems like a natural place to put it in.

One major problem I see is with the placement of the 300W DC-DC board. Most of the power connectors get in the way of the motherboard, and it looks impossible to plug the cables in there. You could make the case 2-3cm taller to accommodate the board, but that will also get it over the 4L limit. I wonder how you'd feel about making the case shorter from front to back and sacrifice the front fans? (Or at least allow slim fans only)

HD PLEX 160 would be superior or G-unique/12V build. I hate cables.

 

[DontPeek]

What's the maximum CPU cooler height?

 

[Boil]

What's the maximum CPU cooler height?

The answer is Noctua NH-L9i…?

 

[|||]

What's the maximum CPU cooler height?

I'd think it would be very similar to the S4 Mini at 45mm, possibly slightly less, with the HDPlex DC-DC board it's side.

 

[Parge]

I love it, but what about using the 300W HDPlex + Brick and placing the HDPlex underneath the GPU. Would allow you to slim the case right down.

 

[br3nd0]

Great concept and feedback, looking forward to seeing more updates

 

[Boil]

I love it, but what about using the 300W HDPlex + Brick and placing the HDPlex underneath the GPU. Would allow you to slim the case right down.

The CPU side of the chassis is already just wide enough for the needed surround on the I/O shield; I do not think there is much to slim down…

If anything, the change you propose would allow the chassis to reduce its height some…

But who wants a massive power brick attached to a diminutive chassis…?

 

[jottwehh]

Alright! Thank you for all the comments and suggestions. Nice feedback! I will try to answer as much as possible:
@zovc @ |||
Power connector:
You are right, this isn't the cleanest solution, but at this point I don't see any other option.
The problem is, that this EMI filter is HUGE! Even a normal c14 connector is huge in comparison to this build.
Actually we need a new AC-plug for those usff builds... anyway I've found a small 90° C14 power cable from another build,
that I could use for the bottom connector. The only problem: I can't find such a small 90° connector anywhere.
So this could work for me, but none else could use it... I will add some pictures later, but even with this small cable,
the EMI filter got a total height of 67mm (which is about 1/3 of the hole case....)

@zovc @ ||| @CC Ricers
Airflow:
As you can see on my MC600 build, I love tiny builds, but also won't make and compromise at cooling.
This case should be able to handle a 1070 and a K-CPU and maybe. And if you take a look at MoBo temperatures
and all these additional heat source like 2x SSD or even overclocked RAM, at least I'm not feeling comfortable
only using a tiny CPU cooler throwing hot air in all directions.
And even the s4 mini offers the option of adding a 120mm fan above MoBo and if I got @Josh | NFC right, it
makes a Hugh difference for MoBo temps & CPU temps (and even RAM temps for sure).
Talking about RAM, yes @zovc you are right, the RAM will block most of the air,
but in my opinion its not optimal, but definitive better than no additional airflow.

@Thehack @CC Ricers @Parge
Power management:
first of all, the hole idea of this case is an internal PSU that can handle at least 300W for builds like 1070 & i7-7700k.
So no chance of banning the Ac-DC out of the case or going for the 160W AC-DC.
G-unique instead of Hd-Plex DC-ATX? Honestly till now i don't get this g-unique solutions....
To be fair, i didn't really tried to understand all the differences between the different versions. Especially the sizes...
Is there an at least 300W direct plug version that is around 40mm height? Why would anyone bus a HDPLEX DC-ATX then?
And if so, would it be compatible to the HDPLEX 300W AC-DC? (12VDC vs. 19VDC)
Alright, lets talk about the 300W/250W DC-ATX cable plug in solution. You totally saw that right, in this configuration
you won't be able to simply plug in the connectors. But, if you take the 30ww DC-ATX version, the connectors would be next to the
side panel so there would be space to plug them in. On the other hand, if you use this case you'll have to do custom cables!
I do have the 250W Versions and I think I will solder the cables directly to the board.
This is one thing I noticed while designing this case:
Yes, I hate cables too, but I hate connectors even more! They are huge! DC as well as AC connectors.... huge!
And for sure you need them, and a company like hdplex cant just solder some cables on the board, so they are either too short
or too long for your build, but honestly: everyone here is doing custom cables and sleeving but in my opinion soldering isn't
more complex. And if I know where to put the DC-ATX i dont even need the modularity....
Maybe I've got a special point of view here... and maybe I will change it, but at this point,
I hate connectors more than cables and don't mind soldering them to the HDPLEX.

@Thehack
3d-printing:
I don't have a printer on my own. I was planning to print it at shapeways ant at this point it's about 90-110$ for the skeleton + ~50$ for side panels.
That's not cheap for sure, but right now I don't see any other option.

@DontPeek @Boil
Space:
right now you've got about 40mm for the CPU cooler, so NH-L9i is the answer

Last night I was thinking about all your feedback and I will try a different layout today. Not sure if it works,
but the plan is to change dimensions to 110mm x 202mm x 180mm = 3.99l
This way I would lose about 3mm height for GPU from 140mm to 138mm (from riser to power connector),
both 92mm fans wouldn't be there anymore,
CPU-Cooler up to 50mm, higher RAM (like G.SKILL) would be possible, and/or small CPU Cooler paired with a slim 120mm (like s4 mini)

OK, that's it for now. Thanks again for your feedback! Much appreciate that!

 

[Thehack]

If you want to run a proper i7k you will need a bigger cooler than an NH-L9. Something like what dondan is working on.

If you check out the meanwell threads I have, they are a better option than running with a HD Plex 300. Your cables will be the cause a lot of design issues.

Alternatively you can wait for the HD Plex Dynamo that is being designed here.

 

[jottwehh]

@CubanLegend
You're using a 7700k on an Asus Strix 270i inside a s4mini, right?
So, if I didn't miss anything, you also tested many cooling options.
Zalman CNPS2X, Noctua NH-L9i, Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM and finally you went for the Thermolab LP53 with the slim 92mm Noctua fan and removed the VRM heatsinks of the MoBo, right? So basically you're the expert for the question:
What's the way to go? Slim CPU-Cooler combined with slim 120mm above or is LP53 with noctua slim fan the best option, even if you wouln't be able to get the right orientation of the LP53? And whats the best option if you dont want to remove the VRM heatsinks?

 

[CubanLegend]

@CubanLegend
You're using a 7700k on an Asus Strix 270i inside a s4mini, right?
So, if I didn't miss anything, you also tested many cooling options.
Zalman CNPS2X, Noctua NH-L9i, Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600 PWM and finally you went for the Thermolab LP53 with the slim 92mm Noctua fan and removed the VRM heatsinks of the MoBo, right? So basically you're the expert for the question:
What's the way to go? Slim CPU-Cooler combined with slim 120mm above or is LP53 with noctua slim fan the best option, even if you wouln't be able to get the right orientation of the LP53? And whats the best option if you dont want to remove the VRM heatsinks?

Thanks for considering me an expert, I just happened to be an average SFF enthusiast.. who spent too much money in search of the lowest CPU temps within the S4 mini for my 7700k, lol. Okay, so the context of this post is regarding the best CPU cooler solution, that can fit inside an S4 Mini, so a maximum of like 40-49mm of height:

A: a slim CPU cooler with a 120mm fan will be loud, all the slim120mm fans are SUPER loud when reaching full load/full RPMs, and they arent as good as the A9x14 at cooling in a SFF case (SADLY. I have the Rosewills and the custom-ordered Scythes, all SUPER loud @ load) plus the A9x14 is whisper quiet... you just have to settle for that brown and beige color scheme lol.

B: The LP53 with the Noctua is the best option now but, only IF you can get the fins on the LP53 parallel to your RAM and you remove any VRM heatsinks blocking airflow on either ends of the fins exhaust areas. Oh and also only IF you are comfortable with surface mounting the A9x14 PWM Fan on top of the LP53 with Zip ties like I did. Because without a parallel fins mounting solution, fixing airflow restrictions by removing troublesome VRM heatinks, and the amazing A9x14 PWM fan itself... the LP53 is only marginally better than the NHL9i (by maybe 2-4c, if they are both in the same orientation & using the same A9x14 fan). And also, the LP53 with it's stock fan, it wont sit inside an S4 Mini.

C: But IF you dont want to remove VRM heatsinks that restrict airflow slightly, and aren't worried about slightly higher CPU temps (3-5c) from using and a CPU-heatsink-parallel-fin-to-RAM mounting solution, then the NHL9i is the best all-around option. It's the easiest install with minimal hassle option, plus it's less expensive than the LP53 and the A9x14 combo. Also you dont have to wait 3-6 weeks for shipment like I did with the LP53.

Just remember than in an SFF case, every bit of airflow and proper fin orientation can add or remove a few C in CPU temps. If you hands down want the lowest CPU temps then option B is it, if you want low CPU temps but without messing around with your mobo VRM heatsinks and zip-tying a fan & stuff, & for cheaper... then, option C is your best bet. EDIT: Option A is good if you dont care about temps and just DO NOT want that A9x14 beige fan and want a nice black fan on your CPU heatsink.

any other questions, please feel free to let me know. Hope this answered your question.

 

[jottwehh]

Since my wedding is next weekend I won't have time to finish this project that soon. Anyway, I still want to share some pictures:


Still waiting for the 300w AC-DC but for a first try everything seems to fit well.

 

[|||]

Hey, the vertical plug fit!

A word of caution: you may fry the memory module immediately next to the heat sink with the fins oriented like that. Take a look at the mod that @CubanLegend did to get it to fit rotated 90 degrees.