Log Is it an Xbox Series S? No! It's a 4.19L modded K29 PC! (Lots of pics)

princess_daphie

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So, as I was saying in my other build post, I already put my black modded Goodisory A02 case on my shelves and started working on my new love, the K29 I ordered from Amazon for like 67$CAD a while ago, quite the steal for such steel! Even though the modded acrylic panel was like too perfect on my previous case, it was still acrylic and somehow bothered me. That plus a few minor nitpicks. It was also bigger than it needed to be, so the SFF fanatic that I am was annoyed by that empty space at the bottom of the case, LOL

Enter the K29. Basically no dead space in this case. All the empty space is useful for cable routing and not injuring my fingers while working in it.

Step 1: The first thing I knew I had to do was mod the RTX A2000 PCIe bracket so it fits in the case. I ended up ordering a regular-sized bracket off eBay for 17$CAD (the low profile one was 10$ more and I had to cut it anyways) because I didn't want to fuck up the original plates that came with the card. A month later, I got it.



Step 2: Get a riser card of the right orientation and height, those are quite rare, but I didn't want to deal with a cable, as I've had bad experiences with those, they seem flaky and easy to damage. I've killed one before. That also took a while and cost me like 22$CAD.



Step 3: Test fit the GPU in there



Step 4: Mod the PCIe bracket (drill 2 strategically-placed holes) and the case (drill matching holes in the case) to properly secure the card to the case. That was the best solution I came up with after spending so many hours of pre-sleep thinking about how to deal with this without needing a dremel, because I'm scared of that tool with my shaky hands, and because it feels like any mod made with a dremel always ends up a bit messy.

NOTE: It's very secure!!!




Step 5: Test my full build, but without the side panel, because I wanted to see if everything was working fine before testing airflow restriction conditions etc.

Also, I had no choice, as I needed a solution to allow plugging the power brick to the Pico, through the case!

NOTE: Mean Well 330W (GST360A12-C8P) power brick is in the foreground! Cost me 200$CAD shipped from mouser.ca



Step 6: Research and choose connector to use for the power brick -> case -> pico connection. I've settled on aviation connectors, as those seem to be secure and cool, and allow for such a customized number of pins. I bought a bunch to offset the shipping costs and all, and in case I need more sometime, or break some while trying to solder things :D Cost me around 12$ for 11 pairs of connectors, 4pin and 7pin, 12mm. Wait a month for it to arrive.

NOTE: I also had to buy a female 8pin EPS connector, and my best solution was a pack of 2 extensions off amazon.ca for 11$CAD, which I cannibalized the female connector I needed.



Step 7: I also had to buy a new soldering iron as my older very cheap hardware store unit was on its last leg.



Step 8: I made a small blunder there, as I didn't realize the 12mm version of the connectors had such a small opening for cables, so I was unable to fit 6 cables as I was planning to, so as things are, I wouldn't be able to safely carry 300w through my cable, but up to 240w should be fine.

The whole thing was fun to do though, my first time making connectors like that. The end result looks really good I think!






Step 9: Wiring things up. I like how the little free space that's available in that case allows me to freely position and wire things up.



Step 10: Install and secure the GPU using my custom mounting method.



A look at the backside, ALMOST looks factory, haha! I can use the 4 mini displayport connectors.



A couple shots of the finish build:









Size comparison:



In its natural habitat, with the massive power brick on my desk for the moment, until I decide to move it to the bottom of my desk!

NOTE: Yes, I keep a Swiffer duster on the ready on my desk, hahaha...





There are a couple more pics in the imgur album, if you're curious:


My build specs are as follows:
  • Case: K29
  • PSU: 300w 12v PicoPSU from AliExpress
  • Power Brick: Mean Well 330W 12V (GST360A12-C8P)
  • Motherboard: Asus Prime A320I-K
  • CPU: Ryzen 5 5600G
  • CPU Cooler: ID-Cooling IS-40X
  • RAM: 2x Timetec 16gb DDR4-3000
  • GPU: PNY Nvidia RTX A2000 6gb
  • Storage NVME: Samsung 970 evo plus 1tb
  • Storage SATA: Samsung 860 evo 500gb
Hope y'all like it! I'd love your comments, suggestions, questions, appreciations, etc. My first time taking so much time making a build log 😅
 

Snerual

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Jul 3, 2020
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Such a great project! Repurposing PSU-space for an RTX A2000 is so ingenious. Very creative thinking for mounting it as well.

How is the IS-40X? I assume that is close to max height for a cooler in this case.

Looking at the space between motherboard and front of the case... would an HDPlex GaN fit in there? If so that would be a SICK idea for a brickless build...

I just realized that with that APU in there... this might well be the smallest PC in the world that can power 6 monitors at once!
 

princess_daphie

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Such a great project! Repurposing PSU-space for an RTX A2000 is so ingenious. Very creative thinking for mounting it as well.
Thanks! I'm not the only one to do it for sure, I've seen this mod done a couple times over reddit and youtube, but I thought of it before I saw anyone do it, it just took so much time for parts to arrive from AliExpress, and i had to do it in a few phases, hahaha!

How is the IS-40X? I assume that is close to max height for a cooler in this case.
There's actually a bit more than 10mm left of clearance I think, but the closer to the panel you get, the higher chance of noise from turbulence! Unless you also make a modded panel too I guess. As it is, my case is almost silent on idle and very tolerable under load, and there's no turbulence noise coming from the CPU fan.

Looking at the space between motherboard and front of the case... would an HDPlex GaN fit in there? If so that would be a SICK idea for a brickless build...
I went and checked the 250W GaN and it says it's 55mm wide, and the case is 75mm wide, so yeah, there's all the chances it could fit comfortably! You'd have to permanently sacrifice the USB-A port, though, I also checked. The power button and USB-C port are safe.

I just realized that with that APU in there... this might well be the smallest PC in the world that can power 6 monitors at once!
It certainly is among the smallest ones you can build with a dedicated GPU! And it's not too expensive for a solidly-built case. Drilling a 1/2" hole through this case was no easy job!
 
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princess_daphie

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TEMPERATURE TESTING

So I tried playing a bit of games with my build and seems like playing games is fine temps and performance-wise, without knee-capping the system.

I was playing Shadow of the Tomb Raider for like 15 minutes or so and it reached equilibrium at
  • ~65C CPU cores
  • ~56C CPU socket
  • ~46C System Temp
  • ~45C NVME
  • ~35C SATA drive
  • ~85C RTX A2000 (I followed a tip I saw in another thread, set a flat curve @1400mhz, 750mV, works really well, barely any throttling, no mods on the card)
You can see it coming back down after I closed the game.



STORY TIME

There's one thing I had to fix after my initial assembly and all. This might be of interest to anyone of you who bought the same PicoPSU I suggested.

The PicoPSU would shut down when I was running intensive 3D benchmarks like Unigine Heaven. Then I tried running it without the case panel, and it lasted a bit longer before shutting down, so I tried with a fan pointed at the Pico and it didn't crash. But then I tried stress testing it with Prime95 at the same time, and it shut down again. It wouldn't shut down during Prime95 alone, case open or close. I suspected overheating. And in particular, some overheating from the 12V line going through the 24pin connector, since the RTX A2000 doesn't have a PCIe connector, and consumes 70w through the PCIe slot.

So what I did to try and fix the issue was to apply a similar mod to the unit as I've seen on the "mining version" of the same PicoPSU on AliExpress by some sellers, which is to add a bypass wire from the direct 12V line to the 12V pins of the 24pin connector. I actually failed at doing it like I wanted, and my soldering job is a mess, but I couldn't manage to remove the excess solder and I don't have a solder sucker on hand (I ordered on just now, I'll try to clean it eventually), so I only added one bypass wire instead of two, but it seems to have fixed the issue so far.



With the case open, I was able to run Prime95 + Unigine for like 15 minutes without crashing. I don't like doing long stress testing, so I'm not leaving it on for hours on end, haha, and I don't think I'll try it with the case closed, but I did manage to play a bit without issues. Time will tell if things are gonna stay kosher!

Oh, and with the case open again, I decided to add some status lights to the case with a set of LEDs I had and some hot glue, since it has none, LOL, it's so kitsch...

 

Snerual

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Ah, interesting to know about that PSU! I swear at default the RTX A2000 has spikes that are straight up out of spec... I have een HWInfo report spikes upto 1850 MHz which would mean like 1V or so... Have you tried undervolting? Now that I properly undervolted my A2000 using Afterburner, I have higher performance and at the same time my PSU never ever trips anymore!
 
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princess_daphie

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Ah, interesting to know about that PSU! I swear at default the RTX A2000 has spikes that are straight up out of spec... I have een HWInfo report spikes upto 1850 MHz which would mean like 1V or so... Have you tried undervolting? Now that I properly undervolted my A2000 using Afterburner, I have higher performance and at the same time my PSU never ever trips anymore!
That might explain why it's hard to drive for a bunch of picos!!! I also followed the tip about setting a flat voltage curve on it to prevent it from going above 0.700 something V and wow did it make a difference!

This gpu's just like my i5-11400, which also has quite rapid power spikes when you don't castrate it!!!
 

SFFMunkee

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Jul 7, 2021
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I'm so glad to see someone else using the 1U/Flex PSU space for a 2-slot GPU! This gives me more confidence in my next build ;)

Looks great, If you wanted to add some final polish you could make a white cover plate for the PSU cutout, in place of the GPU IO plate (similar to the SFX to ATX adapter plates) so you have the perfect alignment for the original PSU mounts plus the A2000 to mount to it. :)

::EDIT:: Yes the A2000 will often have spikes when OC'd if you don't prevent it with a custom V/F curve - definitely worth undervolting and forcing max volts to 750mV!! I'd also recommend a custom fan curve if you prefer cooler temps but if you're happy with 85C (which is totally safe) then all sweet anyway
 
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princess_daphie

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I'm so glad to see someone else using the 1U/Flex PSU space for a 2-slot GPU! This gives me more confidence in my next build ;)

Looks great, If you wanted to add some final polish you could make a white cover plate for the PSU cutout, in place of the GPU IO plate (similar to the SFX to ATX adapter plates) so you have the perfect alignment for the original PSU mounts plus the A2000 to mount to it. :)

::EDIT:: Yes the A2000 will often have spikes when OC'd if you don't prevent it with a custom V/F curve - definitely worth undervolting and forcing max volts to 750mV!! I'd also recommend a custom fan curve if you prefer cooler temps but if you're happy with 85C (which is totally safe) then all sweet anyway

Happy it helps you in your confidence, haha! I was almost certain myself, and then I saw a youtuber do it and I was a bit annoyed he beat me to it, because of AliExpress shipping delays, haha, but i made me 100% sure it was possible.

As for the plate, I thought about it, but there's so little space between the card and the back panel that I can't fit anything else than like the stock GPU plate that's 1mm thick, and the reason I can't move the GPU back is because I used a riser card, I don't want to use a riser cable. It was just so cool that the spacing for the PSU was just perfect to make it work this way. I also used the GPU IO plate as mounting support. I'm pretty happy about how things turned out!

And yes, the custom voltage curve is more than satisfactory! Even though the GPU reaches 85C, it still expels a lot less hot air than it did with the stock curve!
 

SFFMunkee

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Happy it helps you in your confidence, haha! I was almost certain myself, and then I saw a youtuber do it and I was a bit annoyed he beat me to it, because of AliExpress shipping delays, haha, but i made me 100% sure it was possible.

As for the plate, I thought about it, but there's so little space between the card and the back panel that I can't fit anything else than like the stock GPU plate that's 1mm thick, and the reason I can't move the GPU back is because I used a riser card, I don't want to use a riser cable. It was just so cool that the spacing for the PSU was just perfect to make it work this way. I also used the GPU IO plate as mounting support. I'm pretty happy about how things turned out!

And yes, the custom voltage curve is more than satisfactory! Even though the GPU reaches 85C, it still expels a lot less hot air than it did with the stock curve!
Do you need the IO plate? I removed mine and just used the two screws to mount it directly to the back panel :)
 
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princess_daphie

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Do you need the IO plate? I removed mine and just used the two screws to mount it directly to the back panel :)
Well, I thought about it, but in the end I realized that for my means and what I was ready to do to the case and GPU itself, using a modded PCIe bracket was my best solution. Also, with the positioning of things, if I remove the PCIe bracket, I'm left with a gaping hole and the 2 screw posts don't line up to anything, they're in the hole of the case. And like I said, there's about only 1mm of clearance between the card and the case, so that's not enough to fit a custom acrylic bracket for example. I could've used angle brackets with sticky tape and a hole in the case to hold the GPU, but that would've needed me to leave the card without its IO shield. I really prefer the card with it. And it would've been difficult to execute.

I'm wondering, what's bugging you about the IO plate on my build currently? 😅
 

princess_daphie

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I made an improved version of my adapter cable (8-pin to GX12-4 connector) to plug the Mean Well brick to the aviation connector. I used thicker gauge wires (AWG18) and twisted them together, plus used a few pieces of shrink tube to keep things in place! These 4xAWG18 wires are the absolute MAXIMUM you can fit in that 12mm connector, LOL, I tell ya, it was a challenge! But I'm very happy about the outcome.

Haven't had issues with heat with the connector so far.

Here's the 2 cables in comparison. The old one has its 8-pin female part chopped off, as I reused it:

 

princess_daphie

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I wish I was better at soldering, and maybe had better equipment, I dunno, but while trying to fix the blobs of solder on my PSU, and trying to get used to the desoldering gun, I eventually ended up fucking it up past what I'm able to repair. So I did my mod on a new unit, it's shitty soldering quality, AGAIN, but I can't attempt to fix it, lol. So it is what it is I guess. Hopefully I have no issues with it :confused:

It's a bit humbling/embarrassing to post about my failures, but I guess they're as much part of the journey as the successes, so here I am telling you all about it.





I'm hoping that my bypass wire is connected to both 12V pins, but I have no way to check, so it remains up in the air. Plus the solder quality on the other end of the short cable is, like, abysmal. Half of the wire isn't even covered in solder. I only noticed it when it was too late, but it seems solid and I think there's enough contact for it to work well enough.

le sad.
 
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princess_daphie

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I took a new picture of my build with its status LEDs at the bottom where they're inconspicuous, I just keep loving the look.



Also, I'm waiting for a bunch of different LED PCBs from AliExpress and might use them if I can do something good with them.
 
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Snerual

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That's a really nice glamour shot! (and I saw your thread on Reddit gathered a lot of traction!)

Re: crappy soldering: Have you tried using Flux? I heard it can really make things much easier. Both for soldering and de-soldering.
 
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princess_daphie

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That's a really nice glamour shot! (and I saw your thread on Reddit gathered a lot of traction!)
Thanks! I was happy that my second try worked much better, haha!

Re: crappy soldering: Have you tried using Flux? I heard it can really make things much easier. Both for soldering and de-soldering.
Yeah I did, but either my flux isn't the right type (I bought it way back when I was trying to revive a PS3 with reflowing, which turned out pretty useless as it didn't last, hahaha) or I didn't use enough, or at the right moment :confused:. I've decided to buy proper flux soon, so eventually I might have better tools and also get better at it. Hopefully XD!

I now have a proper soldering iron, a solder sucker, and I even bought a genuine$$ chisel tip for my iron, because the pointy tip made it so hard to transfer heat in so many angles.

As for my build, things have been very stable so far, so as long as this is the case, I'll resist the urge to revisit my soldering job. That's one thing I remember from Louis Rossman's advice with soldering, hahaha!
 

princess_daphie

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So I started working on my next mods for this case, which I've been thinking about for a while. All these talks about internalizing the power brick eventually got the better of me, especially after buying that compact 250w AC/DC 12V power supply from AliExpress! It's a perfect fit, really.

Here are some pictures of the process:











I had to cut an existing power cable and solder it to the Gx12 connector, then build the other end of the connector. I used the proper color cables to avoid making an error with the 120V AC. Working with this kind of power is so much scarier!!! I did my best to make sure it's safe, every step of the way, isolating every contact point.

I then soldered a bunch of ring connectors, so I'll have perfect connections to the PSU. After that, I positioned the PSU, using masking tape to avoid scratching anything and this confirmed the size was perfect. I then used thermal pads and lots of thermal paste to have good thermal transfer of the PSU to the metal case, then used screws and nuts to secure it in there. I used the 2.5" screw holes and they're perfect for the job. I was happy I had screws with height that works.

What's left now is testing an actual build in there!!!
 
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princess_daphie

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So I kept working on it, here are some pictures!


I tested a build in and everything fits. 12V cable from PicoPSU to PSU is too long, so I made a shorter version, using silicone wire (more flexible), just like I did for the AC cable (green, black, white cable).


Shorter wires, cleaner.


Added my SATA data drive at the bottom using double sided tape.


Final build, including riser and RTX A2000, as usual. Now wish me luck, I really hope the PSU doesn't overheat. I'm testing it as I type, and the enclosure is getting quite hot soaking up all the heat. I wasn't expecting it to get that hot. Hmm...
 

SFFMunkee

King of Cable Management
Jul 7, 2021
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Looks great!

Final build, including riser and RTX A2000, as usual. Now wish me luck, I really hope the PSU doesn't overheat. I'm testing it as I type, and the enclosure is getting quite hot soaking up all the heat. I wasn't expecting it to get that hot. Hmm...
You'd be surprised how effective even a tiny amount of extra airflow will be at bringing those temps way down. Test any fan you've got at low speeds over grille or pointing up through the PSU and see if it helps a lot. If it does, then you can think about more permanent mounting.

It could also just be that the AC/DC adapter is far less efficient than you planned for (e.g. 75% vs 90% at 150W converting 120VAC to 12VDC is a fair amount more heat)