How hot should a Ryzen 1400 run?
- Thread starter laughing man
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For some reason when I reset and do things other than use the bios, then reset again the cpu is MUCH cooler. Why is that? It wouldn't cool that fast so the temps should be an accurate reflection of what they were when I hit reset. Why does viewing the BIOS heat up my cpu?
If temps are normal during usage in windows or your OS of choice it’s probably a Bios quirk.
I had the same issue with an early bios on the MSI Mortar b350 Board. This was with the 1700 and spire cooler. The cpu fan ran at a fixed rpm and the cpu voltage stayed at a fixed full turbo voltage. Like 1.375 if I remember. So slow cpu fan and high fixed voltage ran up the temps to like 50-55c if I let it sit in bios too long.
It ran fine in windows and real usage. Try a bios update. Try some different cpu fan settings in bios perhaps.
I had the same issue with an early bios on the MSI Mortar b350 Board. This was with the 1700 and spire cooler. The cpu fan ran at a fixed rpm and the cpu voltage stayed at a fixed full turbo voltage. Like 1.375 if I remember. So slow cpu fan and high fixed voltage ran up the temps to like 50-55c if I let it sit in bios too long.
It ran fine in windows and real usage. Try a bios update. Try some different cpu fan settings in bios perhaps.
I switched to agressive 4 pin. But... nothing changed. Better than if I had installed cpu cooler wrong at least. SFF cases are HORRIBLE to build in. Was getting 47 on reset. And that is typical, right?
Yeah small builds can get nerve racking at times. The challenge is part of the fun though!
In windows idle at 47 is high in my opinion on that cpu. Other things like what cooler you have, what chassis it’s in and ambient temps etc come into play.
If it tops out at under or around 60c it’s probably ok. All opinion here just offering it up.
In windows idle at 47 is high in my opinion on that cpu. Other things like what cooler you have, what chassis it’s in and ambient temps etc come into play.
If it tops out at under or around 60c it’s probably ok. All opinion here just offering it up.
Also, I reapplied the paste. I am guess when Arctic ways to RECHECK the goop they didn't mean set the CPU down the rip it back up and look. Which is what I did the first time. And why would a BIOS reset during a rebuild? I didn't move the pin thingy. My OS is gone and BIOS is reset.
- Jul 19, 2015
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With as much respect as I can muster, it might be time to take the opportunity to enlist the help of someone IRL w/ a little more experience building PC's and doing the first boot & install process to aid and advise you through the this, ideally someone who is both willing and capable of explaining things clearly and walking you through whats going on.
Um, I have done builds before. BIOS is supposed to be secured by the motherboard battery. And the OS should still be on the hard drive.
Static couldn't have done it. I was using a well grounded Desco mat and wrist band and had the humidity up. Only thing that could come close is when my screw driver slipped at whacked the board, but I could not see any damage.
Plus, there are no other such people to help.
Static couldn't have done it. I was using a well grounded Desco mat and wrist band and had the humidity up. Only thing that could come close is when my screw driver slipped at whacked the board, but I could not see any damage.
Plus, there are no other such people to help.
With all due respect, @laughing man, you're not going to get much help (on any forum) if you reply to helpful suggestions with poor attitude and demands for assistance.
The BIOS temperature monitoring isn't always that accurate, you should rely on the temperatures reported by your motherboard manufacturer's software from within your OS.
The BIOS temperature monitoring isn't always that accurate, you should rely on the temperatures reported by your motherboard manufacturer's software from within your OS.
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With as much respect as I can muster, it might be time to take the opportunity to enlist the help of someone IRL w/ a little more experience building PC's and doing the first boot & install process to aid and advise you through the this, ideally someone who is both willing and capable of explaining things clearly and walking you through whats going on."
That isn't a helpful answer. My BIOS shouldn't reset just because I repasted and replanted my CPU. Nor should my OS dissappear from my hard drive.
With as much respect as I can muster, it might be time to take the opportunity to enlist the help of someone IRL w/ a little more experience building PC's and doing the first boot & install process to aid and advise you through the this, ideally someone who is both willing and capable of explaining things clearly and walking you through whats going on."
That isn't a helpful answer. My BIOS shouldn't reset just because I repasted and replanted my CPU. Nor should my OS dissappear from my hard drive.
Because the BIOS does not support the processor in a dynamic power mode like a modern operating system, but runs it at full clock and thus high core voltage.
OS'es don't disappear from hard drives. Either it was removed by user action (knowingly or unknowningly) or the hard disk has lost or corrupted the MFT. Are you sure the OS is gone (ie. all files are gone) or might it be that it's just not booting ? You can't wipe an OS by resetting the BIOS but you can make it from not booting it.
If you need straight answers maybe go to superuser.com since the format there is Q&A. Forums are more discussions.
And if you want to know 'how hot/cool it should be' then try using the stock cooler first, that's the closest you can get at 'should' cos, you know, they designed and test it and all.
If it doesn't fit do an open bench setup first. Then fit it all again with your aftermarket cooler and work towards your reference temp.
And if you want to know 'how hot/cool it should be' then try using the stock cooler first, that's the closest you can get at 'should' cos, you know, they designed and test it and all.
If it doesn't fit do an open bench setup first. Then fit it all again with your aftermarket cooler and work towards your reference temp.
- Jul 19, 2015
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You are right but probably not for the reasons you think. i'll take this opportunity to revise my advice: Buy a Dell, make sure it comes w/ a support contract. I'll explain why below.
Communication is key
I'll start here w/ two main points. The first relates to vocabulary & lingo, as much as I hate industry lingo it exists for a reason, it enables people who understand what their doing to communicate quickly and clearly. Its hard for people offer you their support when they have to decode and infer what your looking for support with from somewhat vague descriptions. Ive had a similar problem to this when my kid was younger "dad look at this thing over there w/ the bits on", sometime you just have to use your words and take the time to describe something specifically. Pictures can often really help in these situations too though. This is a difficult situation to resolve because it requires one to have a base level of understanding before they ask for help which seems unfair but its compounded by my next point.
Attitude, first impressions count and im sorry to say but yours are fucking atrocious. This is an enthusiast forum full of people who are more than happy to put their time, effort and skills into supporting you free of charge and w/ zero expectation of anything in return. What it isnt, however, is an on-demand support channel. If thats what your looking for then i'll say again, buy a Dell. Taking an entitled, angry & demanding tone isnt going to win you any friends, its not going to get you any support either. Whilst i understand you are frustrated (at this point its obvious) no one here is obligated to deal w/ the shade your throwing at them, its not their fault your computer doesnt work.
Attention to detail
No one will take the time to support your problems when you dont read their answers
This does somewhat tie back into my point above about communication, none of us have the ability to telepathically reach through the monitor to find out what case you have.
How long is a piece of string. Whats your ambient, case, cooling hardware (CPU HSF, fans, GPU, case layout), what kind of loads have you run on it, do you have any photos or screeshots that might help people to troubleshoot your computer for you, what TIM are you using, what steps have you already taken to try and troubleshoot this, what were the results of those steps?
Misc
it is, there are literally standards documents detailing this (the exception is some embedded and server stuff)
why is the earth round. The great thing about standards are they exist outside of computing, screws and screw threads exist in a standardised format as well, its amazing, it means you can go to literally any well stocked hardware store, buy your own screws and be confidant they will fir the desired application.
Im not sure i agree w/ they are but i'll assume for the moment that your assertion is universally correct and make some inferences that its likely related to ensuring a secure mechanical and electrical contact thats not susceptible to vibration, knocks, thermal cycles, etc
This is on you, Read your motherboard manual, if your still not sure about something watch some build videos on youtube. I understand its frustrating when things arent obvious or easy immediately but much like riding a bike it sometimes takes some effort, research, practise and time to learn and master a new skill.
Maybe it would have been prudent to have taken a look before jamming a screwdriver in there?
Watch some videos about it on youtube, there are loads of them, 10 minutes of time here would have saved you significantly more time after the fact
It didnt, there isnt much room to negotiate on this point. Your doing it wrong, something you did or did not do wrong may have created a situation where it failed to boot. Unfortunately w/out you having taken any time to troubleshoot the issue, provide documentation of what you did, how you did it and what the results of that process were its almost impossible for anyone to tell you what, specifically, that was.
Sure bro, im not going to call you a liar.
So, to conclude, buy a Dell and make sure it comes w/ a support contract. Not only will they go out of their way to try and solve your computer problems but they will also be substantially more tolerant of the manor in which you demand it.
EDIT: typos
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This is the second answer I have gotten as to why the CPU runs hot on BIOS screen. The other was that the BIOS might be buggy and need updating. I am mentioning this here because it is relevant to the next post I will be making.
Mine just did. I have the boot sequence set right. And it should boot. Note that I have done numerous builds this is the first time I have had an OS dissappear. The hard drive is detected, but not booting.
Furthermore, why did the BIOS reset when I replanted hhe CPU? The dissappearance of the OS and the reset of the BIOS both happened when I replanted the CPU. I was using a Desco 18576 kit and had the humidity high when doing this, so static is unlikely to be the culprit.
For your first assertion is a straw man. What "that stupid metal thing" is was made clear in the thread with "1) What is up with with that stupid metal thing that goes around the mother board ports?"
And the second post made it quite clear that people could clearly understand what I was talking about as that second post contained a message from a user showing a picture of how ASUS had solvex this issue.
On quotes 3-5 you noted: It was warranted. The thread starter was an arrogant ass that seems to think all this info is clearly and easily accessible when it isn't. Here is a hint: You are clearly in the market of selling SFF. You might want to use your lines of communication with these companies that you are in contact with and urge them to actually put out all the info regarding their products. I shouldn't have to call power color to get the measurments for a GPU. I shouldn't have to endure a call to Biostar to get info on the I/O plate. I shouldn't have to scour the net to get the height of a stealth cooler. I shouldn't have to look all over the place for info that should be readily available. You don't want an attitude? Don't have such poor accessibility of info and then expect me to be tolerant of an arrogant jackass who just can't seem to figure out why people don't just hunt all over the place for info that should be readily available, not hidden in some obscure forum with information generated by people I do not know and do not trust to be accurate.
And yes, impressions do count. My impression thus far is that this whole process of doing a build is made hard by two things 1) Assinine companies that can't be bothered to put out useful info but can waste plenty of my time on all sorts of marketing garbage 2) Assinine people who think I haven't bothered to try something, then make silly strawman arguments in an attempt to act like they have a justification for their "elitist" behavior. (I use the term "elitist" loosely as I do not believe you people to be worthy of such a term, an example of the reasoning for which will be seen in the next post).
And I do read the answers. The problem is that I get numerous answers. At this point I have to wonder if even the manufacturer know which answer is the right one. As far as the I/O plate is concerned I have seen the following answers:
1) It is for EM and radio shielding
2) It doesn't matter. It is for dust and air flow issues
3) It is for grounding (which makes no sense as the case is painted)
4) Everyone seems to lose them. No one knows why the exist
5) I forgot this one. "Oh, some stupid Euro country mandates I/O plates, but like, theys stupids so you don't need it! I think it was the Germans or some crap. Dumb chocolate eating Germans."
"Meh, should be fine" is not an answer most inspiring of trust. So yeah, I will kinda ignore such answers. Might wanna include detail as to how the conclsuion was arrived at.
As for my reply about the fan filter material. You again raise a strawman. It was clear from the question of "Is there anyway to buy large pieces of that air filter stuff" that my request was not for a normal issue. Perhaps I could have spent a bit more time looking for that stuff, but at that point I was rather sick of searches thanks to having to hunt all over the place for all the info that should have been in the instructions or on the manufacturer website, but just magically wasn't, because like, who needs measurments, right?
As for the Ryzen temps question, again you raise a strawman argument. When I ask how hot a Ryzen 1400 should run any reasonable person would realize that I am looking for the operating temperature range, which usually includes measurments for idle, max safe ongoing temps, and max safe peak temps. That should be duh obvious.
And no, the faceplate connectors are not standardized. They involve multiple individual little pins that are a PITA to attach. They could just create a standard that involves one big connector that covers all the faceplate functions. It would definately clean up the wiring and make it to where I do not have to deal with all those itty bitty connectors. The only standard currently applied is that they all have itty bitty connectors in varying amounts with varying polarity systems.
As for the screws issues, again you raise a strawman. Using thumb screws would not require different threads nor thread pitch. And one could still use hardware screws in a pinch if necessary. Thumb screws are also harder to lose since they are larger, and you can hold onto them while you install them.
As for the connectors issues, again you are wrong. You don't have to make a connector hard to remove and insert to secure it against vibration. The cpu lock is a perfect example of this. Plus it would be nice to have somthing to grab onto other than wires and a short smooth plastic surface.
As for the fan connector hook issue. It is partly on me. I should have realized someone would be dumb enough to put a hook on the motherboard connecter even tough the fan connector had nothing for that hook to latch onto. I thought releasing that hook by jamming a flathead screwdriver in there would save me the risk of ripping out the wires to the connector as those wires were the only thing to grab onto thanks to the wonderful ergonomic design of the connector...*sarcasm*
As for the cpu goop. Shouldn't have to watch videos since I had the instructions in front of me, and right now I am stuck at 30kb/s so cannot watch the videos. Plus I have no guarantee the videos are correct. Did arctic silver make them?
As for the BIOS and OS issue, yeah, sure. Trouble shoot a BIOS that reset on its own and an OS that no longer shows. No way to troublesboort the BIOS issues as far as I know, which is why I asked. And I checked to make sure the boot order was right, which is the only troubleshooting I can do with the OS issue, as far as I know, and which is again why I asked.
And as for trusting Dell, no thanks. I like high quality PSU and caps and not refurbished parts.
Frankly you are an ass, and not a smart one at that. Whoever funded this forum clearly wanted to promote SFF builds and the associated products. And yet here you are acting as though strawmen, imbecilic arguments, and recomendations that people just go buy a Dell will somehow help sell all these products. You should be fired. And I am not being hyperbolic when I say that.
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I am using the stock cooler. Your assertion is sensless. Just using the stock cooler does not tell me what the temeperatures should be. There could be other issues.
*Deep Breath*
He's not site staff, so he's a volunteer. Not being paid at all for the wonderful service he provides to this forum as a moderator. Frankly I'm glad he put in te time and effort to attempt and rectivfy your interaction here, in a way I never could.
You clearly also misunderstand the relation this forum has with manufacturers and OEM's: tangential at best. We aren't their customer service, we don't have any say in standards, and we most certainly don't have to put up with the shade you're throwing.
Enough already.
If you don't want "shade" then you (all of you) should adhere to some advice another poster made in another thread, which was basically to either help out, or move on.
And you do have SOME clout with the manufacturers if you are reviewing their products. And you should definately use it. The current state of lack of basic info and HORRIBLE ergonomic design would have remedied most of my questions. And then to deal with this crap on top of that... it is ridiculous.
And you do have SOME clout with the manufacturers if you are reviewing their products. And you should definately use it. The current state of lack of basic info and HORRIBLE ergonomic design would have remedied most of my questions. And then to deal with this crap on top of that... it is ridiculous.
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