Production FormD T1 Classic (READ FIRST POST)

Increase volume from 9.8L to 10.5L to support MSI Suprim X 30XX?

  • Yes, worth the trade off to be more compatible with components

    Votes: 116 24.7%
  • No, not worth it b/c it is not better than the ROG 30XX, which fits now at <10L

    Votes: 353 75.3%

  • Total voters
    469

PBJ

Airflow Optimizer
Jan 6, 2019
358
546
Would've been better to use end terminals. In any case take care that no strands are sticking out.
Thanks for the advice! I carefully bent the strands inward so that they’re not sticking out of their slots and used the screws to pin down the wires. The strands are then sandwiched between the wires and the button’s contacts.

I have no idea if that’s an acceptable way of doing it, but wanted to avoid damaging the strands with the screws. If I try to crimp just the strands, it’s too loose anyway.

Below are some pictures of what I’m talking about if anyone’s interested. The first picture is just an example and not the actual wire or screw.

 

seckzy

Chassis Packer
Aug 2, 2019
20
32
Thanks for the advice! I carefully bent the strands inward so that they’re not sticking out of their slots and used the screws to pin down the wires. The strands are then sandwiched between the wires and the button’s contacts.

I have no idea if that’s an acceptable way of doing it, but wanted to avoid damaging the strands with the screws. If I try to crimp just the strands, it’s too loose anyway.

Below are some pictures of what I’m talking about if anyone’s interested. The first picture is just an example and not the actual wire or screw.


I may be off base, having never actually seen the case, but would it be possible to just solder the wires onto the switch?
 
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Killdoc

Trash Compacter
Mar 25, 2020
40
29
I may be off base, having never actually seen the case, but would it be possible to just solder the wires onto the switch?
Not having the switch in person, I can't guarantee that I am not wrong. But it looks like this switch requires you to use the screw in terminals. I do not think that should be a problem. On the contrary, it would allow you to easily transfer the switch to another case (but why would you want to) or if you need to add more length to the wire.
 

PBJ

Airflow Optimizer
Jan 6, 2019
358
546
I may be off base, having never actually seen the case, but would it be possible to just solder the wires onto the switch?
Yeah, sure, you could do that, but if someone does not have soldering equipment, they can easily wire it with a screwdriver as the wires already come stripped.

This might be only for test shippers, because if the Optimum Tech video is anything to go by, the button will already come wired.
 
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PBJ

Airflow Optimizer
Jan 6, 2019
358
546
Not having the switch in person, I can't guarantee that I am not wrong. But it looks like this switch requires you to use the screw in terminals. I do not think that should be a problem. On the contrary, it would allow you to easily transfer the switch to another case (but why would you want to) or if you need to add more length to the wire.
Yes, you’re correct. They’re screw in, but nothing will stop you from soldering it if one is so inclined, but there’s no real reason to do it.

edit: Sorry for making 2 consecutive posts
 
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notbitcoin

Average Stuffer
Aug 3, 2019
77
204
How did the santoprene tubing do with kinking? I got this EPDM tubing and it's a bit too flexible. It kinks very easily in my NCase M1.
i used the same epdm tubing previously, and the santoprene is noticeably more rigid/works a lot better for a bend I'm trying to do (the epdm would just outright collapse without anti-kink coils, but was fine for my bend with them). i also had trouble with that epdm twisting way too much when screwing the stock compression fittings down, and while the santoprene does twist a bit, you really only need to pre-twist it by ~180 degrees so that when you're done screwing the fitting down it's at the ideal bend on a non-rotary fitting.

i have some of this viton tubing as well that i'm saving for the final t1 loop if everything works as planned.

McMaster.com has the best searching and filtering experience ever designed. I routinely use this website as an exemplar in my line of work.
and you aren't kidding. i'm just some weekend booger-picking hobbiest, and i still managed to spend something like $200 on tubing / foam / various tapes / sorbothane that last time i was on the site because it was all so easily accessible and the information so detailed (+ they practically have your order boxed up by the time you submit it).
 

Brude27

Master of Cramming
Jun 21, 2018
384
878
@PBJ Thanks for the info on the power button! I was way too busy when I got home yesterday to inspect and figure out how simple the wiring design was. Would I prefer that it was plug and play? Yes, but it isn’t really an issue as long as one knows how to use a screw driver lol.

Edit: I realized I tagged the wrong person... oof.
 
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KaranB

What's an ITX?
New User
Jun 3, 2020
1
0
I want to do custom color on it, hopefully, re-anodize each panel. And the most promising way to do it is using oven-cleaner.

The question is :
Are there any plans for naked color? So it's easier for us to anodize it.
 

gwertheim

King of Cable Management
Nov 27, 2017
938
1,555
I want to do custom color on it, hopefully, re-anodize each panel. And the most promising way to do it is using oven-cleaner.

The question is :
Are there any plans for naked color? So it's easier for us to anodize it.

No naked case, any color changes you need to do it yourself at your own risk.
 
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DrLeroy

Noob Saibot
May 15, 2020
186
117
28mm according to EK (check the part number - 3831109860465).

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-coolstream-se-240-slim-dual-5001

Interesting,
I was going by the dimensions here:

however, I see your point now, as the EK website says 28mm . . . . must have been an update? or perhaps my local vendor stocks the older version still?
 

fabio

Shrink Ray Wielder
Apr 6, 2016
1,885
4,325
Interesting,
I was going by the dimensions here:

however, I see your point now, as the EK website says 28mm . . . . must have been an update? or perhaps my local vendor stocks the older version still?
it's just a vendor website mistake. There are not 26mm EK Coolstream available NEW in store. Only the 28mm.
 
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FischOderAal

Average Stuffer
Apr 15, 2020
73
77
Thanks for the advice! I carefully bent the strands inward so that they’re not sticking out of their slots and used the screws to pin down the wires. The strands are then sandwiched between the wires and the button’s contacts.

I have no idea if that’s an acceptable way of doing it, but wanted to avoid damaging the strands with the screws. If I try to crimp just the strands, it’s too loose anyway.

Below are some pictures of what I’m talking about if anyone’s interested. The first picture is just an example and not the actual wire or screw.


While every electchicken will likely tell you it is wrong, my personal experience says that it will be fine. That's how I did it 13 years ago, just directly on the wiring. (It was a watercooled Lian Li. God I loved that case.)
 
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DrLeroy

Noob Saibot
May 15, 2020
186
117
I found a supplier in Australia for the XSPC 20.5mm 240 rad, not sure if it will have enough performance for a 3950x and whatever Nvidia drop as next-gen replacement for the current TI though?
out of stock though, but I don't mind waiting on parts.

Gotta see if I can find something similar in Australia!

Is not the EK similar tubing similar? its EPDM, the same material the use in industrial fire hose systems for orings. I don't think Santoprene is much different as far as TPE materials go?
 

Luke NK

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Nov 17, 2019
126
116
Got it Today! Exactly the same as yours. Looks like you just have to crimp the wires with the silver screws already installed on the power button. No idea what the black screws are for though...




That is really easy to wire! there is no skill required for these, I'm sure everyone won't find any problems with it
 
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Luke NK

SFF Lingo Aficionado
Nov 17, 2019
126
116
Thanks for the advice! I carefully bent the strands inward so that they’re not sticking out of their slots and used the screws to pin down the wires. The strands are then sandwiched between the wires and the button’s contacts.

I have no idea if that’s an acceptable way of doing it, but wanted to avoid damaging the strands with the screws. If I try to crimp just the strands, it’s too loose anyway.

Below are some pictures of what I’m talking about if anyone’s interested. The first picture is just an example and not the actual wire or screw.


Ideally you want to use the second or third one, more clean and avoids harming to the wire, but just using the screw into the wire is okay

 
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