Production FormD T1 Classic (READ FIRST POST)

Increase volume from 9.8L to 10.5L to support MSI Suprim X 30XX?

  • Yes, worth the trade off to be more compatible with components

    Votes: 116 24.7%
  • No, not worth it b/c it is not better than the ROG 30XX, which fits now at <10L

    Votes: 353 75.3%

  • Total voters
    469

PBJ

Airflow Optimizer
Jan 6, 2019
358
546
The people that bought it in China got the power button with their cases, but I don't think any test shippers got the buttons shipped to them. I haven't gotten one, but it's no big deal because I got one from pslate and it works as expected. It's longer than the one you get with the T1, that's for sure, but it's perfect otherwise.
No it hasn’t. A while back around march/april @Wahaha360 said the power button shipment for the test shippers was refused by the shipping company due to the pandemic. I don’t know when it will actually ship, but I’m sure he’ll let us know as soon as it does.
 
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denys_349

Chassis Packer
Feb 11, 2020
15
76
Well, finished my T1 build, it took a lot of time, but i'm pretty happy with it, at least because everything fits nicely. It's not a final version, as I already have an LT240, and just waiting while SF750 will return to stock. GPU is also non-optimal for this case, as I have to move the rear part with connectors closer to the side a bit, but it was only 2mm, so nothing critical imo.

The case itself is very high quality and made with a high precision, except for one point, which is the rear top GPU cap, I had to apply some force to fit it in place, and it's not possible to get it back without a screwdriver, which left some scratches on the rear panel, they are not visible while cap is installed, so I don't worry about it. I think that reducing the cap height for a 1mm should solve the problem. Also I do not exclude the case that I did something wrong, and that's not an issue at all, but I haven't found any other way to install the cap.

Regarding the shipment, package was valued at 47 USD so no fees were applied at all, I just got it from the local post office. Outer box was in a very good condition with only some minor dents on angles, inner box and the case itself was in perfect condition.


Well, finally I have some time to post my updated build, which is much closer to the final look.
Made some major changes to it:
- got SF750 from Amazon (still is not available in my country);
- bought 11/8 tygon tubes and aquacomputer premix coolant to replace LT240 stock;
- inspired by @fabio custom cables photos decided to made my own :)
- used long standoffs from the package to move riser 1-slot closer to the side and solve the issue with GPU height (still have to modify power connectors a bit);
- finally bought power button and also changed the ram to trident z rgb.

The most time consuming was to made custom cables, it took something like 2 days of work to complete all of them, but nothing too complex there IMO, just a lot of patience.
Replacing LT240 tubing is absolutely another thing, problems arose starting from the disassembling, had to use pliers and adjustable wrench to unleash tubes from two fittings, and even using such tools it was pretty hard to do, no need to say that 50% of their surface was damaged significantly.
I hoped that there will be no issues with assembling, but they were. I've painted all the fittings with a spray, but when I tried to assemble the loop there was no chance to do that without using of a pliers again.
Apart form that, when fittings are almost fully tightened tube starts to rotate together with a fitting, so I have to mount all the fittings to the tubes initially and then to the rad/pump.
Filling the loop using fillport on the pump wasn't the problem at all, just a time consuming task.

That's about what was done, but I still have some things to improve in the build.
First of all, bitspower set of 11/8 mm fittings already on the way to me, should be delivered in a week, as I'm really unhappy with the stock one. Together with fittings I want to add second short spring to the tube (even such bend across the psu going to kink the tube, especially during workload, but that was mentioned by some member, and expected with 1.5mm tube wall thickness) and move long spring to the front for a better look.
Also need to buy two black nf-a12x15 fans, but can't find them in stock, so have to wait some time.

** sorry for the photos quality, illumination is far for perfect **

 

Navic

Master of Cramming
Jan 6, 2019
587
1,341
Well, finally I have some time to post my updated build, which is much closer to the final look.
Made some major changes to it:
- got SF750 from Amazon (still is not available in my country);
- bought 11/8 tygon tubes and aquacomputer premix coolant to replace LT240 stock;
- inspired by @fabio custom cables photos decided to made my own :)
- used long standoffs from the package to move riser 1-slot closer to the side and solve the issue with GPU height (still have to modify power connectors a bit);
- finally bought power button and also changed the ram to trident z rgb.

The most time consuming was to made custom cables, it took something like 2 days of work to complete all of them, but nothing too complex there IMO, just a lot of patience.
Replacing LT240 tubing is absolutely another thing, problems arose starting from the disassembling, had to use pliers and adjustable wrench to unleash tubes from two fittings, and even using such tools it was pretty hard to do, no need to say that 50% of their surface was damaged significantly.
I hoped that there will be no issues with assembling, but they were. I've painted all the fittings with a spray, but when I tried to assemble the loop there was no chance to do that without using of a pliers again.
Apart form that, when fittings are almost fully tightened tube starts to rotate together with a fitting, so I have to mount all the fittings to the tubes initially and then to the rad/pump.
Filling the loop using fillport on the pump wasn't the problem at all, just a time consuming task.

That's about what was done, but I still have some things to improve in the build.
First of all, bitspower set of 11/8 mm fittings already on the way to me, should be delivered in a week, as I'm really unhappy with the stock one. Together with fittings I want to add second short spring to the tube (even such bend across the psu going to kink the tube, especially during workload, but that was mentioned by some member, and expected with 1.5mm tube wall thickness) and move long spring to the front for a better look.
Also need to buy two black nf-a12x15 fans, but can't find them in stock, so have to wait some time.

** sorry for the photos quality, illumination is far for perfect **

Do you manage cables for a living? Because that cable management is perfect.
 

Killdoc

Trash Compacter
Mar 25, 2020
40
29
Well, I've tried that configuration in other case, like Steck, Ghost, MI-6, and with the great airflow in the T1 can only be better!!
I don't know why you're interested in synthetic test, BUT, I've personally tested that a 9900K locked till 140W is cooled perfectly under Prime95 (80/85C max) by a Noctua L12s (this means also the BS3).
After 140W the cooler starts to suffer. I remember the max was 160W at around 90/95C (Every 10W add 5C, at least it was my 9900K behaviour).

In the T1 you have a great airflow and exhaust options from the top, so, as I've said, can only be better!!

@fabio Thank you for your prompt response. I suppose that I used the synthetic test just to get an impression on how well the BS3 would cool my 9900K. I do not believe that it represents real world usage, but as I mentioned earlier, I was trying to decide on whether or not to begin ordering water cooling parts.

I have used undervolting of my GPU in the past, but now run at stock since my case has additional fans that keep it around 70 to 80s on Heaven Benchmark. I suppose I need to learn more on undervolting my CPU if it becomes an immediate issue when I transfer to a T1.

But if I decide to go to water-cooling, I am laying the blame on people like those on this forum who are corrupting my malleable mind!
 
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Reactions: DrHudacris

DrHudacris

King of Cable Management
Jul 20, 2019
918
1,720
@fabio Thank you for your prompt response. I suppose that I used the synthetic test just to get an impression on how well the BS3 would cool my 9900K. I do not believe that it represents real world usage, but as I mentioned earlier, I was trying to decide on whether or not to begin ordering water cooling parts.

I have used undervolting of my GPU in the past, but now run at stock since my case has additional fans that keep it around 70 to 80s on Heaven Benchmark. I suppose I need to learn more on undervolting my CPU if it becomes an immediate issue when I transfer to a T1.

But if I decide to go to water-cooling, I am laying the blame on people like those on this forum who are corrupting my malleable mind!

The long and short of it is, if you're not overclocking, you need to undervolt. Technically, undervolting is also an overclock, if you consider maximizing clocks for a given voltage. You are simply finding the lowest stable voltage for a clock you are happy with. You won't lose performance if you don't want to.

Here is a guide to undervolting that walks you through it step-by-step. Undervolting is amazing!

Edit: You don't need a Kill-a-watt if you don't want; it's really for measuring power consumption at the wall only and validating internal sensors a bit.
 

rfarmer

Spatial Philosopher
Jul 7, 2017
2,588
2,702
The long and short of it is, if you're not overclocking, you need to undervolt. Technically, undervolting is also an overclock, if you consider maximizing clocks for a given voltage. You are simply finding the lowest stable voltage for a clock you are happy with. You won't lose performance if you don't want to.

Here is a guide to undervolting that walks you through it step-by-step. Undervolting is amazing!

Edit: You don't need a Kill-a-watt if you don't want; it's really for measuring power consumption at the wall only and validating internal sensors a bit.
I used that guide and found it extremely helpful, I was able to keep my 2080 Super from thermal throttling and still maintain good performance.
 

Truth

Formerly TutorialIsland
Mar 19, 2020
86
43
Well, finally I have some time to post my updated build, which is much closer to the final look.
Made some major changes to it:
- got SF750 from Amazon (still is not available in my country);
- bought 11/8 tygon tubes and aquacomputer premix coolant to replace LT240 stock;
- inspired by @fabio custom cables photos decided to made my own :)
- used long standoffs from the package to move riser 1-slot closer to the side and solve the issue with GPU height (still have to modify power connectors a bit);
- finally bought power button and also changed the ram to trident z rgb.

The most time consuming was to made custom cables, it took something like 2 days of work to complete all of them, but nothing too complex there IMO, just a lot of patience.
Replacing LT240 tubing is absolutely another thing, problems arose starting from the disassembling, had to use pliers and adjustable wrench to unleash tubes from two fittings, and even using such tools it was pretty hard to do, no need to say that 50% of their surface was damaged significantly.
I hoped that there will be no issues with assembling, but they were. I've painted all the fittings with a spray, but when I tried to assemble the loop there was no chance to do that without using of a pliers again.
Apart form that, when fittings are almost fully tightened tube starts to rotate together with a fitting, so I have to mount all the fittings to the tubes initially and then to the rad/pump.
Filling the loop using fillport on the pump wasn't the problem at all, just a time consuming task.

That's about what was done, but I still have some things to improve in the build.
First of all, bitspower set of 11/8 mm fittings already on the way to me, should be delivered in a week, as I'm really unhappy with the stock one. Together with fittings I want to add second short spring to the tube (even such bend across the psu going to kink the tube, especially during workload, but that was mentioned by some member, and expected with 1.5mm tube wall thickness) and move long spring to the front for a better look.
Also need to buy two black nf-a12x15 fans, but can't find them in stock, so have to wait some time.

** sorry for the photos quality, illumination is far for perfect **

You're supposed to replace the fittings, not reuse them o.o ...
 

Killdoc

Trash Compacter
Mar 25, 2020
40
29
The long and short of it is, if you're not overclocking, you need to undervolt. Technically, undervolting is also an overclock, if you consider maximizing clocks for a given voltage. You are simply finding the lowest stable voltage for a clock you are happy with. You won't lose performance if you don't want to.

Here is a guide to undervolting that walks you through it step-by-step. Undervolting is amazing!

Edit: You don't need a Kill-a-watt if you don't want; it's really for measuring power consumption at the wall only and validating internal sensors a bit.

Thank you, @DrHudacris. I actually think that at some time in the past I might have browsed thru this website, or something very similar. Many of the programs I already have used on other projects (3dmark Timespy, CPUID HWMonitor, GPU-Z). I also do have a Kill-a-Watt.

So undervolting my GPU is not an issue, really.

It is undervolting my CPU that I am researching. This is in case I do end up with high temps which I can not manage well in the T1. I have followed JaysTwoCents YouTube channel for years, and he actually has had a somewhat understandable tutorial that came out last month.

BTW, two personal questions, if you are not offended. Are you actually a Dr (I am an anesthesiologist)? And are you in Dallas by any chance?

Once again, thank you so very much for the community support you and others provide us all. You deserve praise for contributions.
 

DrHudacris

King of Cable Management
Jul 20, 2019
918
1,720
It's pretty funny that you mention undervolting a CPU, because there is a guide for that as well on the same website! If you're using Intel, I think they are more straightforward to undervolt and guides on undervolting them are more abundant.

No offense taken! Yes, I'm an internist in Nashville, or will be soon anyway in a couple of months :D
 

dyjsh.14

Cable Smoosher
Apr 17, 2020
10
31

I rendered one myself while waiting for sidearmd t1 to arrive.
Workflow: Sketchup-Lumion 10
System Specs: 2700x-rtx 2060
 

denys_349

Chassis Packer
Feb 11, 2020
15
76
Do you manage cables for a living? Because that cable management is perfect.
nope
I'm just trying to do my best, especially when it comes about my pc :)
I also think that they can look much better with cable combs, but standard solutions are no go here. I'm thinking about some custom 3d-printed ones, but this require some effort even to investigate the possibility.
 
Last edited:

bubumac

Cable Smoosher
Apr 19, 2020
9
9
For anyone that can understand Mandarin. Not as cinematic as Optimum’s video, but much more informative. There is supposed to be a ‘Part II’ coming, which compares different cooling options, such as top radiator vs. bottom radiator. Credit goes to ‘suming li’ on YouTube and please subscribe if you like his contents. Enjoy!


I just saw someone in China was inspired by your build:
www.chiphell.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=2219940

Check it out


Found this guy... he's the same dude on Chiphell with the amazing blue hard tubings.

He posted another vid... for those interested...