unfortunately not.
I will be doing an all on air, but missing the T1 ?
With a Corsair H60 you won't need a slim fan.
Also you should look at the NF-F12 instead of the NF-S12A.
Even better would be to wait for the NF-A12x25 chromax and get 2 of those.
Other than that, the list looks solid.
I may already asked that @fabio .
If I remember correctly, someone replied, that the static pressure wouldn't benefit more, than having less noise with fans under the radiator, but don't quote me on that.
Aluminum panel is the horizontal stripe one.
There will be some sort of Two Tone media coverage before it goes on sale.
Just wanna help out as many people as I can. If people are interested I can try and get together a list of the most useful posts people have made and make a post here. I might have to go back and find some post because I saved things that would help my future build (3slot config and 240aio). Might take a bit to get the list together, and a couple cups of coffee.
Maybe it will benefit thermals more to have some sort of rubber shroud between fans and radiator, depending on the radiator thikness. Also the fans under the radiator of course, what will also help with routing the tubing.
I can only give you thumbs up for your activity, that will be great for others too.. waiting with snack in the corners.
About to get started on it! I just need someone to suggest me an album to listen to while I do this haha.
Has anyone tried the "quick disconnect method" to fill their small form factor loop? Optimum Tech mentioned it in one of his videos that he was waiting for specific quick disconnects to try it out but then ended up not doing it.
I assume it works by having two sets of disconnects, one in your loop and then the other set attached the reservoir. You attached the reservoir and fill up the loop normally, then you disconnect the reservoir and reattach the two ends of the quick disconnects. Completely filled and bleed loop without needing to have a reservoir permanently in your system.
Anyone have any tips or advice about whether to use this method?
I assume it works by having two sets of disconnects, one in your loop and then the other set attached the reservoir. You attached the reservoir and fill up the loop normally, then you disconnect the reservoir and reattach the two ends of the quick disconnects. Completely filled and bleed loop without needing to have a reservoir permanently in your system.
Anyone have any tips or advice about whether to use this method?
Chromax NF-A12x25? When will those be released? They're gonna sell like crazy I'd assume haha
And @aexeq
They won't be released any time soon.
I already got in contact with noctua last year because of that.
And as I already expected they told me that ist'n not just changing colors.
The NF-F12x25 has just 0.5mm of clearance between blades and frame. And the special plastic the need to achieve that can not be colored black in an easy way by adding black "paint" cause that changes.. well just everything (different material behaviour in general).
So... I would NOT wait for it...F12x25 might never reach the market in a black version..
The last statement I found was a YT comment saying, that noctua plans a release in Q1 2020, but that obviously hasn't happened yet. It could be very soon, but could also take until end of the year. I would suspect a release this year, but nactua proofed to take quite a long time to release some stuff.
Noctua showed a prototype at Computex last year.
Of course, repainting their Sterrox material isn't a thing, so another colour takes much longer.
We may need to contact Noctua again, to get reliable information.
I would't be too concerned right now, because it was already stated, that @Wahaha360 needs numbers for producing batches.
I guess he will make sure to get the T1 to as much people in the survey as possible.
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I plan to run the H60 for now and grab the distro-plate for a custom-loop if I decide to upgrade to Ryzen 4XXX/Nvidia RTX 3XXX down the line. I figured using the thin fan from now won't hamper the performance of the 3600 while also leaving me with more usable parts for future builds.
If that is your intetion, I suggest getting one NF-A12x15 and one NF-F12 if you want to build with the LT240 or EK Classic SE 240 for example.
If you have poor cable management, two NF-A12x15 may work better for you.
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I don't see the reason why with the EK you have to drop the F12. You can do exactly the same, mounted in the same exact way.
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