Stalled DICE CASES - FLOW : expandable SFF case for watercooling enthusiast (built in distroplate)

alauder

Trash Compacter
May 10, 2019
53
282
www.pcdesignfoundry.com
Finished the bottom cover today and installed most of the PEM clinch nuts. Parts can go out to powder coating tomorrow.








There is a gap between the covers because I am using socket cap screws. I need to change to countersunk screws to allow the covers to be flush and the gap should go away.



Started some fit checking.





pcdesignfoundry
 

ermac318

King of Cable Management
Mar 10, 2019
655
510
This looks so awesome! How is the bottom rad slider being held in place? Was just thinking it needs to be strong enough to hold up the entire case, are the screws there strong enough and not going to wear down and slide? Is there some way to add "notches" to the area so that it clicks into place and is held there by the metal and not just the screw?
 
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diceboii13

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Nov 4, 2018
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dicecases.com
This looks so awesome! How is the bottom rad slider being held in place? Was just thinking it needs to be strong enough to hold up the entire case, are the screws there strong enough and not going to wear down and slide? Is there some way to add "notches" to the area so that it clicks into place and is held there by the metal and not just the screw?
I talked about that with Andrew, and he said its rigged enough to hold the weight of the pc. But after some testing we will see for sure. Also in the mass product version there are different type of bends made by 40 tonn machines, so it will be even stronger imo.
 

Skullassfreak

Cable Smoosher
Apr 19, 2019
12
13
I talked about that with Andrew, and he said its rigged enough to hold the weight of the pc. But after some testing we will see for sure. Also in the mass product version there are different type of bends made by 40 tonn machines, so it will be even stronger imo.

I'd be more worried about the screws scraping off the paint. Are you going to use some sort of rubber/plastic washers to prevent that?
 

diceboii13

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Original poster
Nov 4, 2018
620
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dicecases.com
I'd be more worried about the screws scraping off the paint. Are you going to use some sort of rubber/plastic washers to prevent that?
Yes, I want to use big thumbscrews with plastic or rubber pieces in the contact point. What you see is just a current prototype solution. This way Andrew and I (and everybody) can see how it fits together.
 

ermac318

King of Cable Management
Mar 10, 2019
655
510
I talked about that with Andrew, and he said its rigged enough to hold the weight of the pc. But after some testing we will see for sure. Also in the mass product version there are different type of bends made by 40 tonn machines, so it will be even stronger imo.
I might suggest adding notches to the sliding hole like a long capital E where you can slot the screws into the horizontal notches and then screw them in, so they are resting on the metal and not floating.
 

diceboii13

King of Cable Management
Original poster
Nov 4, 2018
620
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dicecases.com
I might suggest adding notches to the sliding hole like a long capital E where you can slot the screws into the horizontal notches and then screw them in, so they are resting on the metal and not floating.
It might be to late for me but I cant imagine what you said..lol if its not a big deal for you, can you make some sketch about it? It'll really help me out :D
 

Skullassfreak

Cable Smoosher
Apr 19, 2019
12
13

Something like that just so the screws are always resting against a "bottom". That shape is reversible so it doesn't matter if on top or bottom.

That being said you could accomplish the same thing that @ermac318 said by just making holes instead of a slot
 
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ermac318

King of Cable Management
Mar 10, 2019
655
510

Something like that just so the screws are always resting against a "bottom". That shape is reversible so it doesn't matter if on top or bottom.

That being said you could accomplish the same thing that @ermac318 said by just making holes instead of a slot

Indeed that's what I was imagining. Just doing holes would do the same thing, as you point out. That might be smarter.
 
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diceboii13

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Nov 4, 2018
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Something like that just so the screws are always resting against a "bottom". That shape is reversible so it doesn't matter if on top or bottom.

That being said you could accomplish the same thing that @ermac318 said by just making holes instead of a slot
Indeed that's what I was imagining. Just doing holes would do the same thing, as you point out. That might be smarter.

I know it can be better, but in fully expanded there is not much surface area anyway for contact (only 4 points). If the material gonna be strong enough, it will hold up nice. Also Andrew added some self clitching threads for the screws, and they are seems pretty strong. In the first days of the design, i tried holes, but looks ugly imo, thats why i went with the rails. But thanks for the idea!

Edit: Also there will be the acrylic sidepanel under the top/bottom parts, that will hold the them streight when its closed.
 
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Skullassfreak

Cable Smoosher
Apr 19, 2019
12
13
I know it can be better, but in fully expanded there is not much surface area anyway for contact (only 4 points). If the material gonna be strong enough, it will hold up nice. Also Andrew added some self clitching threads for the screws, and they are seems pretty strong. In the first days of the design, i tried holes, but looks ugly imo, thats why i went with the rails. But thanks for the idea!

Edit: Also there will be the acrylic sidepanel under the top/bottom parts, that will hold the them streight when its closed.

I'm actually in agreement with you I don't really think it'll be an issue.

In the off chance that you do find that it isn't held opened properly with component weight, it may be better to have inserts that fit on the opened sides (near the top and bottom of the rad) and mount into the channels. This would be pretty simple (basically some aluminum c-channel) but at increased material cost.

Alternatively, you could just have the slots there for alignment (or forego them entirely) and have long bolts at the 4 corners of the top plate that can be tightened/loosened into the body of the case to adjust height. Excess threads would just be hidden inside the body of the case. That way there's no chance for slippage.
 
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diceboii13

King of Cable Management
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dicecases.com
I'm actually in agreement with you I don't really think it'll be an issue.

In the off chance that you do find that it isn't held opened properly with component weight, it may be better to have inserts that fit on the opened sides (near the top and bottom of the rad) and mount into the channels. This would be pretty simple (basically some aluminum c-channel) but at increased material cost.

Alternatively, you could just have the slots there for alignment (or forego them entirely) and have long bolts at the 4 corners of the top plate that can be tightened/loosened into the body of the case to adjust height. Excess threads would just be hidden inside the body of the case. That way there's no chance for slippage.
I know now what you are saying :D I think about that but first I try the easier, more simple way first, to see how it perform. The c-channel is a stronger way to do for sure.
 
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