EK-AIO (Basic) 240 + NCASE M1 v6

AlexTSG

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Original poster
Jun 17, 2018
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I've been considering the EK-AIO 240mm as an option to go into my NCASE M1 v6 since I saw it reviewed on GamersNexus.

However, I'm not interested in the RGB lighting, and would have probably left it disconnected.

Now I've seen the newly released EK-AIO Basic 240 with no RGB (and the associated cables to manage), and priced at $90, I'm thinking of getting one.

The Basic version looks very similar to the D-RGB version with the differences I could see being: Fans that are quieter, with better airflow on the Basic version (33.5dbA/77CFM vs 36.4dBA/66CFM), and a higher minimum pump speed (850RPM on the Basic vs 450RPM on the D-RGB).

I just wanted to know if anyone had installed one into their NCASE, and if there had been any problems, either with the installation, or the quality or performance of the AIO itself.

If not, I think I might order one over the weekend.
 

Ravaiel

Cable Smoosher
Jan 12, 2021
12
0
Interesting. I've just ordered the D-RGB version (like two days ago - looks like I missed the launch), but now I'm thinking that maybe the basic variant will be a better option (I don't care about RGB).
Question is... what has changed within the pump that the minimum speed has increased. I bought this AIO after the GN review showed it be a really high quality product. Will it be the same with a different pump?
 

AlexTSG

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Jun 17, 2018
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I can understand the fans being different from the RGB ones, but I would think the pump would be the same.

So, either it's a typo on the spec sheet, or they found that running the pump at a lower RPM could cause some kind of issue on the D-RGB model, and decided to increase it on the Basic model.

The manual recommends running the pump at full speed at all times. Page 3 (Numbered 4) of the PDF here:


It looks like the specs are different in the PDF, with the minimum stated as being 600RPM for the D-RGB and the fans listed as having the same 77CFM airflow as the non RGB ones, so there's a good chance it's all the same thing and someone needs to fix the specs on the website, or in the Installation Manual.
 

AlexTSG

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I opened a support ticket with EK to check on the differences between the AIOs and mention the discrepancies between the manual and the website specs.

This is the reply I've received:

Hello,
Thank you for contacting us today 😄
the only real difference is the rgb. While certain parts are made slightly different all the pieces that touch water are made exactly the same and cool the same across all of the aios, the only real difference is the rgb and the number of fans. The elite comes with a nickel cover, 3 extra fans and drgb, and a very slightly upgraded pump (only about 700rpm max difference) while the basic is just that, basic and just meant for cooling and has the same pump as the normal aio.
If you have any other questions or need any additional help please feel free to ask :)
Best regards, Chris
 
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Ravaiel

Cable Smoosher
Jan 12, 2021
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So I've aksked EKWB to change my order. And just realised I didn't answer your original question. The AIO should fit without the problem in the case, but a mobo compatibility might be an issue. I've seen a couple of pics with D-RGB in Ncase.
 
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birdsliveoutthere

Caliper Novice
Aug 24, 2020
21
9
I just transplanted my build from my Dan A4 to my NCASE M1, and will have the EK AIO 240mm basic when it finally ships. I had the RGB version waiting to install, but don't care about the lighting.
 

Ravaiel

Cable Smoosher
Jan 12, 2021
12
0
Looks like it's the same construction for Basic and D-RGB - difference are RGB fans and cover on the pump unit.
 

ThatThereTim

Cable Smoosher
Aug 30, 2020
10
3
Really interested to hear how you guys find the EK AIO 240 D-RGB. I have one in my Ncase v6.1 now, cooling a 5900X on the Asus Crosshair VIII Impact, with two Noctua NF-F12 Chromax as intake (so pulling in cold air from outside, through the rad) and a Noctua NF-A9x14 Chromax on the rear as exhaust, using thermal grizzly kryonaut, and I'm getting some crazy high temps. This is using Asus FanXpert4 for fan tuning, on the standard profile with the pump set to 100% all the time.

Idle is on average 60 degrees, spiking to 80 on light loads (4 edge tabs, onenote, discord). e.g. see attached:
I've even re-seated the block and quadruple checked the thermal paste like 4x. And the side panel temp at intake is super chilly.

Maybe there's something I need to monkey with in the BIOS to rein in the CPU a bit? And maybe I should be using Argus Monitor for fan control instead?

I do have an Asus 3090 TUF in there too, so of course there's heat rising from the back of the card when it's in use, but not at idle (note: it's been undervolted to 850mV/1850mhz so it doesn't actually even go over 65 degrees on full load on the GPU)
 
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yimingwuzere

Chassis Packer
Dec 2, 2020
19
3
Really interested to hear how you guys find the EK AIO 240 D-RGB. I have one in my Ncase v6.1 now, cooling a 5900X on the Asus Crosshair VIII Impact, with two Noctua NF-F12 Chromax as intake (so pulling in cold air from outside, through the rad) and a Noctua NF-A9x14 Chromax on the rear as exhaust, using thermal grizzly kryonaut, and I'm getting some crazy high temps. This is using Asus FanXpert4 for fan tuning, on the standard profile with the pump set to 100% all the time.

Idle is on average 60 degrees, spiking to 80 on light loads (4 edge tabs, onenote, discord). e.g. see attached:
I've even re-seated the block and quadruple checked the thermal paste like 4x. And the side panel temp at intake is super chilly.

Maybe there's something I need to monkey with in the BIOS to rein in the CPU a bit? And maybe I should be using Argus Monitor for fan control instead?

I do have an Asus 3090 TUF in there too, so of course there's heat rising from the back of the card when it's in use, but not at idle (note: it's been undervolted to 850mV/1850mhz so it doesn't actually even go over 65 degrees on full load on the GPU)
Does flipping the fans to exhaust help with thermals in any way? Wanted to check that in case I find the NH-C14S isn't up to par with my 5800X.
 

AlexTSG

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Jun 17, 2018
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@ThatThereTim, that sounds concerning. Especially since I plan to upgrade to a 5900X eventually.

The EK-AIO 240 got some pretty good reviews, and as far as I can remember, was even outperforming the larger 280mm NZXT AIO.

I wonder if there isn't some kind of issue with your unit. Something blocked, or a manufacturing fault perhaps.
 

ThatThereTim

Cable Smoosher
Aug 30, 2020
10
3
Does flipping the fans to exhaust help with thermals in any way? Wanted to check that in case I find the NH-C14S isn't up to par with my 5800X.
I tried flipping the rad fans so they were exhausting rather than intake and the rear A9x14 as intake... but the temps were about 5 degrees higher. Even at idle the system was ramping up the fans pretty aggressively to cope with it. So, in my test at least: exhaust was worse than intake.

@ThatThereTim, that sounds concerning. Especially since I plan to upgrade to a 5900X eventually.

The EK-AIO 240 got some pretty good reviews, and as far as I can remember, was even outperforming the larger 280mm NZXT AIO.

I wonder if there isn't some kind of issue with your unit. Something blocked, or a manufacturing fault perhaps.
I'm wondering the same - originally I was going to go for the Kraken X53, which is kind of a default option thanks to OptimumTech's videos on it, but I saw the EK-AIO 240 was significantly beating it in benchmarks/reviews so went for the EK instead.

If I get the time over the weekend I'm going to do both intake and exhaust tests again using the Vardar S' that came with the EK-AIO 240 (though I really hate the sound profile on them, they're more "sharp scratching" than the Noctua "hummm"). I don't have any NF-A12x25 to try instead of the NF-F12s sadly.

Edit: I've disabled PBO on the 5900X, and tbh should probably clock it down to 4Ghz max. I've been reading a few threads in various places about the EK 240, other folks do recommend keeping the clocks on the CPU down - which to be fair I thought I might need to do anyway, but the idle temp still seems to spike way too high at times. ((2) NCASE M1 OWNERS GROUP | Facebook)
 
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Ravaiel

Cable Smoosher
Jan 12, 2021
12
0
Hmm... I plan to use mine AIO on the 5600x, when I finally build the thing I'll update with temps. I planned to do a push-pull with a combo of a12x25 and 12x15, but I'll defo test just a12x25 set config.
 

AlexTSG

Master of Cramming
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Jun 17, 2018
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If I get the time over the weekend I'm going to do both intake and exhaust tests again using the Vardar S' that came with the EK-AIO 240 (though I really hate the sound profile on them, they're more "sharp scratching" than the Noctua "hummm"). I don't have any NF-A12x25 to try instead of the NF-F12s sadly.

If the fan swap does make a difference, and you're open to trying something else that's not a Noctua, then I can recommend Arctic's P12 120mm.

I have some with a PST feature which allows them to be daisy-chained, which makes for a neater cabling. I don't have a 120mm Noctua to compare noise to directly, but based on my other Noctua fans, the Arctic still won't be as nice. Perhaps just a more pleasant sound profile than the Vardar fans.

Also, when set to exhaust, did you remove the dust filter from the NCASE M1?
 

birdsliveoutthere

Caliper Novice
Aug 24, 2020
21
9





I got the EK-240 basic installed in my M1 today. 4 Noctua NF-A12x15 as intake with filter in push/pull idle 40% speed, pump always at 100%.

Ambient room temp 20C, CPU (OC to 4125Mhz at 1256mV) maxed out at ~74C, but stayed around ~59C during 25 minutes of blended stress test in prime95.

Ryzen 3700x
Gigabyte B550I AORUS (backplate removed for CPU cable to route behind)
EVGA 2070 Super (deshrouded, using the 2 120mm Vader fans for this as intake)
Corsair LPX 32GB 3600 C18
Corsair SF750
Crucial P1 NVMe 1TB
JHack m2426
GPU and CPU 8-pin cables from DreambigbyRay on Etsy.

The tubing pushes against the PSU with this fan setup which made it difficult to attach the bracket to the case.
 
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rfarmer

Shrink Way Wielder
Silver Supporter
Jul 7, 2017
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I got the EK-240 basic installed in my M1 today. 4 Noctua NF-A12x15 as intake with filter in push/pull idle 40% speed, pump always at 100%.

Ambient room temp 20C, CPU (OC to 4125Mhz at 1256mV) maxed out at ~74C, but stayed around ~59C during 25 minutes of blended stress test in prime95.

Ryzen 3700x
Gigabyte B550I AORUS (backplate removed for CPU cable to route behind)
EVGA 2070 Super (deshrouded, using the 2 120mm Vader fans for this as intake)
Corsair LPX 32GB 3600 C18
Corsair SF750
Crucial P1 NVMe 1TB
JHack m2426
GPU and CPU 8-pin cables from DreambigbyRay on Etsy.

The tubing pushes against the PSU with this fan setup which made it difficult to attach the bracket to the case.
Build looks great. Bonus points for no brown Noctuas or RGB.
 
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Ravaiel

Cable Smoosher
Jan 12, 2021
12
0
Looks great! How much space do you have at the back (between rad and rear case bracket)? I was thinking of putting there the a9 92mm, but looks like a tight fit?