Is the 1080 classified compatible? Tossing between it or a strix (classy is slightly cheaper)
Not quite. The EVGA GTX 1080 Classified is within the graphics card height limit but ultimately incompatible since the additional height from the PCI-E power connectors would make the whole thing not fit. Therefore, get the Strix 1080, its recessed power receptacles makes clearance not an issue.
Sliger's working as hard as they can. Sorry about the delays. I'm antsy too.
Well, it hurts to pay more for an inferior card but what can you do? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
https://******/images/evKXfS
Anyone have a lead on a 1080 for 450 - 500? Classy was too big, FTW and STRIX sold to other peeps.
Anyone have a lead on a 1080 for 450 - 500? Classy was too big, FTW and STRIX sold to other peeps.
*Update: I really wanted to have a stable overclock for my 1600 at 3.8ghz at 1.35v, so I tried attaching an external 140mm thin fan that blows air right over the cpu fan and motherboard.
To my surprise, even running the fan at a dead silent slow rpm of 500-800 rpm, I was able to maintain temps around 80c with my overclock, which I am using the cryorg C7 Cu with a slim 92mm noctua fan attached. Its not icy cold temps, but I'm pretty impressed with how much extra power I can squeeze out now.
Temps stabilized to 80c after 2 hours of rendering inside blender3D. Hope this helps others if they want to overclock as well.
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To my surprise, even running the fan at a dead silent slow rpm of 500-800 rpm, I was able to maintain temps around 80c with my overclock, which I am using the cryorg C7 Cu with a slim 92mm noctua fan attached. Its not icy cold temps, but I'm pretty impressed with how much extra power I can squeeze out now.
Temps stabilized to 80c after 2 hours of rendering inside blender3D. Hope this helps others if they want to overclock as well.
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That looks really good actually. It's quite ridiculous, but I have half a mind to "cut out" a portion of the cover so that any cooler could ultimately be installed (with the needed supports of course) - but I might just ask for an additional cover piece to "play with" at some point. Similar idea - just not reversible, (unless of course I had the extra cover piece).
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) I've got one of these exact 140mm cryorig fans coming my way for use in project hermes, hoping I can finagle it on to the final design
@myfirstpcyay I wouldn't be so quick to modify the panel, especially since its just a flat piece that has multiple simple cutouts. If you have time, or know anyone with a laser cutter or cnc (like Tap Plastics Store), just get quick measurements, cutout a replica plastic/acrylic panel, and test out the mod on that replica first. Recreating the flat panel is super simple to do, and it would be a shame to damage such a striking designed case haha.
Oh I fully agree 
that's why I said "spare cover." But your advice on getting an acrylic piece made for it in the interim is also a great idea.
Full disclosure, I currently don't like overclocking my 5 1600. I get audio artifacts playing BF1 with any type of overclock, and seem like I'm not the only one. Scratch that - it seems it's more prevalent if OC'ing via p-states, vs just inputting a constant OC. So it's running stock.
that's why I said "spare cover." But your advice on getting an acrylic piece made for it in the interim is also a great idea. Full disclosure, I currently don't like overclocking my 5 1600. I get audio artifacts playing BF1 with any type of overclock, and seem like I'm not the only one. Scratch that - it seems it's more prevalent if OC'ing via p-states, vs just inputting a constant OC. So it's running stock.
@myfirstpcyay Hmm thats a shame, I don't play video games that much, only 3d rendering, but hopefully you can get that sorted out soon.
