Log [COMPLETE] X300-M(AX): A watercooled sandwich style X300M build! [5.6-5.9L, 12V!]

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Figured out why my GPU was overheating. GPU block was hitting the pcie 6pin legs (which I knew) which was lifting it off the die. Current plan is to chop the legs and replace them with 18ga wire to create clearance for the block.
 
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Update:
Got the wires soldered in place of the pins, worked like a charm! My joints aren't the cleanest and I'm not too proud of them, honestly but I can't complain too much.



Pics in the sun are much better than pics in a dimly lit house haha

I noticed some oxidation or corrosion or something that I think finally freed itself in the loop on the boot, so I suppose I'll need to drain and flush the loop at some point when I can.

Temps were much better this time on the GPU, ran part of the time spy so tress test and it was at 84c, sustained testing later with doom eternal :)
 

petricor

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Update:
Got the wires soldered in place of the pins, worked like a charm! My joints aren't the cleanest and I'm not too proud of them, honestly but I can't complain too much.



Pics in the sun are much better than pics in a dimly lit house haha

I noticed some oxidation or corrosion or something that I think finally freed itself in the loop on the boot, so I suppose I'll need to drain and flush the loop at some point when I can.

Temps were much better this time on the GPU, ran part of the time spy so tress test and it was at 84c, sustained testing later with doom eternal :)
Haven’t checked in in a while- great progress! What do you plan for the enclosure?
 

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Haven’t checked in in a while- great progress! What do you plan for the enclosure?
thanks!
currently the plan is make the center I beam from 5mm aluminum, the 'floor' from 2mm aluminum, and the top and sides from 2mm acrylic so it's all visible.
 

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Teeny update:

Got an ender 3 and was able to print a new rear panel at home, very convenient with the maker space I was using being closed. Moved the power supply inlets + power button and wifi antennas away from where the wlp350 will go. They're all a bit too close, all the nuts were impacting each other, but I was able to secure everything.

Hopefully I can get the spine v2 printed (in two pieces) and fused together soon.

Also trying to think of a good (free) way to connect a DC jack to one of the CPU power connectors so I can use one PSU instead of 2 until I get the wlp350.
 

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Bigger update: printed the new spine, dovetailed since the ender is too small lol
After filing the dovetails for a tight fit, gluing for strength, and adding standoffs:
Front:

Back:

Some mess from forgetting to support a section that will be hidden under the mobo:


I'll move the parts over to this spine tomorrow. :)
If you're wondering about the indent and smaller than 140mm hole:
I'm planning to try to use an a12x25 on noctua's 120-140 adapter and to save space I'm planning to set the fan into the frame.
If it doesn't work I'll just go back to using a 140.
 

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Printed the new spine and rear plate!
Temporarily air cooling since my cats bit the tubing and I just wanted to play games all week instead of spendmost of the day assembling bleeding.





Watercooling again in about a week, probably. Though I really should get a 120mm fan since that's what the cutout in this spine is designed for. An a12x25 in noctua's 140mm adapter..
 
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You're doing a great job on this. Makes me want to invest in a 3d printer.
Thanks friend, I'm doing my best.


Having a printer, or even just access to one makes figuring out dimensions and stuff MUCH easier for sure. If you can justify the cost and think you'll use it for more than just prototyping the case it might be worth it. I talked my wife into buying the ender 3x by saying we would/ agreeing to print a lot of ppe type stuff for hospitals. I'll periodically steal away some time for my prototyping. :)
 

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It's been a while, but here's a brief new update!

Got the system water-cooled again on the new spine, and have several small modifications planned for it. Having the inch or so of water above the pump made a big difference in bleeding, lol.
Oh! I also upgraded my single 8gb hynix stick to a pair of 8gb ramaxel sticks.




Also improved the loop order.
At this point I still need to order the PSU, wire it, and make the case from metal.
Thinking of using sendcutsend, but I'm not sure they can cut the holes for things to screw into that I need.
 

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New print today, updated rear plate with a floor plate attached, to facilitate attaching my WLP350 CK, short term plan is to coil up the Archdaemon inside and run the 4 wires +6pin pcie out of it to clean up wiring and remove the acbel PSU from the equation. (Pulling 12v from the 24pin for the mobo + riser.
It also partially serves as a partial mockup for my bottom panel.
Planning to print a new front plate in a similar fashion and glue it to the edge of this one to make a more rigid structure for once.

Creeping closer and closer to making the parts from metal!
 

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Coiled up the Archdaemon inside the WLP350 Chassis kit. I regret not running the riser power cable into so I can use the PC until my mainframe order gets here.
That order has a 24pin male connector, some male pins, presleeved/terminated wire lengths, and some heatshrink, which should allow me to run everything from the Archdaemon.
With the psu installed I'm realizing I might need to redo the gpu-cpu tube, the chassis fills up the space a little more than I expected. I also had some weird fitment issues but those will be resolved/ are a result of the print being slightly off, not quite 90°.


 

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Update:
Printed the front panel with provisions for grommets to mount the pump with. Unfortunately the holes were a little too close to the spine so I had to flip the pump, which broke the +12v wire. Which is why the pcb cover is off.
I was also able to print the spine in one piece at a 38° angle on my Ender 3X, with a little inconsequential warping on the front plate mount face. Also used brass inserts for the first time this go around.

Currently remixing my case file to change some orientations and stuff, as well as an attempt to make it print In one piece except for left/right side panels on my local maker space's Ultimaker S5.
 

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just an update on how it looks on both sides.
I'm going to use my local makerspace's Ultimaker S5 to print the case as one piece, top bottom, front, rear, and spine next week. hopefully that will be more sturdy AND have all my little bugs tweaked out. But we'll see. :)



also worth noting, the version of the case I'll be printing moves the PSU chassis to the top of the case, mobo/ gpu as low as possible, and flips the rad 180* vertically. This should help with bleeding and mounting the GPU using the riser I already have, as well as potentially give me enough space to mount a more standard GPU block to a card in the future.


current (final?) exterior dimensions are 310mm x 179mm x 100mm, for a total volume of 5.55L. We'll round that up to 5.6L I think? :)
 
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Current status of the build:
Let the PC sit in the car and it got all bendy from the New Mexico heat. Sadness.

Decided to try printing the case in one go on my ender, worked ok though I'm dealing with warping currently. Here's the outcome:


Current air design has flaws, I need to move the power inlet to the bottom of the case to clear the GPU, make it a smidge longer to give space for the barrel jack (maybe by making a relief in the front panel?)
Also forgot to make an allowance for the actual rider cable to go under the riser PCB so I'll need to add that in.
 

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Hey howdy. Just thought I'd drop an update to explain the lack of updates.

Currently in fighting with warping issues on my printer the attached picture happened using a raft.that makes it pretty hard to prototype anything of notable size so progress has kind of stopped.
I think my current plan. Is to just buy a roll of 3mm filament and print the wc case at the makerhub in one piece, then assuming everything lines up it'll be laser time.
 

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robbee

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What material are you printing with? As long as it's not ABS, you should be able to print large things without it warping. An enclosure helps, a brim or raft does too. Personally, I like to combine (custom) rafts with magnets as can be seen in this picture. It's a bit trial and error, but this allows me to print a 25cm x 21xm object with no warping.

F95OBDOJXEYETT23.jpg
 

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That print was hatchbox pla. Using seeing that hadn't given me issues before on a bed just cleaned with 70% isopropyl.
The old frame that was yellow and orange was printed on the same printer without warping.
I thought it might be related to my AC, but now I don't have it on and have been using heat.

I'm kind of starting to think it's related to my bed heating element somehow, maybe it's not evenly heating the glass bed?

Warping off start is something I've had trouble finding info to help me troubleshoot with.
 
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The printer is working!
Printed a test case with a few dimensional issues, but generally it worked out.
I also swapped the R34UR for a R42SL so I could flip the motherboard 180* so the Rear IO is actually the rear IO, nailed the alignment first try, much easier haha.
Ordered a USB-C to USB-C ribbon as well so I don't lose that nice 'front' USB-c port.

Currently completely reworking my design so it can be made from sheet metal. Looking at doing a U shaped front/top/bottom panel with removable IO panel and spine. Current holdup is the spine and it's associated holes in the U panel.
Feeling a lot closer than ever before though!