A300-M(ax): A watercooled sandwich style a300M build!

Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Howdy y'all!
I've finally gotten some parts in so I can now say I'm committed to this build for sure now!

So here's the plan:
Asrock A300M-STX
up to 290mm dedicated GPU (for now my old 1060, later on a 5700?)
Room for a single 30mm 140mm rad
Internal PSU
sandwich layout

All around 6L.
It could probably be cut down to about 5L if I was willing to keep GPU length under 200, but honestly I've been limited to 180mm or less for a few years and I'd like to be able to use nearly any gpu I'd like again.

Drawings/ pics of progress so far:

So far I've gotten my A300W, tested the riser, and basically just gotten it set up as my daily driver for now.
Recieved a full Supremacy EVO to dedicate myself to the WC plan, and have a big list of parts I want to use but have to wait on because money for now. :)
Case will ideally be bent stainless, the makerspace near me has a laser cutter and a finger brake.
 

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To do in the order I expect it to happen:

-Properly draw the case in case software
-gain access to makerspace (classes to use equipment)
-first draft of case made from cheap steel
-test fit parts, get a better riser
-get it right, final draft in stainless
-get rps-200-12-c x2 and stepup converter
-wire build up
-get wc parts
-build loop
-done!
-upgrade to 4200g?
 

Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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The stx board needs 19v, and the GPU needs 12v. :)
The converter I was planning on using does 8-40v in>12-60v out.

Long term power plan is 2x rps20012c's, short term I think I can get away with 1
 
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Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Recieved my koolance fittings and nickel bracket. Also the adtlink r34ul has been ordered.
Need some fittings, eiswolf and rad now.
...and to actually build the case.
 

ermac318

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Mar 10, 2019
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I believe other people have gotten the Dynamo360 to work with the A300 board. It has a 19v passthrough which you can plug into the board itself, and then the Dynamo powers the GPU.
 
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Curiosity

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I had considered that as an option, but I think that if I use 2x meanwell 12v 200w psu's+ a setup converter it will be a slightly smaller and better shaped package for my plans.
 

Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Current plan for power is:

Set up the build with the 1060 connectors, and a killawatt between the a300 power brick, run prime 95 and see what the name power draw is in a dgpu situation.
If it's 82W or less, I'm going to use the HDPLEX 80W ACDC unit to power the stx board. That will eliminate the stepup and a ton of volume from the stx power solution.
Gpu will be powered from an rps-200-12-c or epp-200-12 with a 3d printed case.

For power in, I'm thinking an xt60 or xt30 for live and neutral, and a 3.5mm mono jack with both poles wired to ground.

Tldr:
Test cpu power draw, if <80W, HDPLEX 80W ACDC. 200w meanwell for gpu. XT60/30 for power in, 3.5mm mono for ground
 

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Used easy off to strip anodizing off of the vrm heatsink and M.2 heatsink
 
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Curiosity

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Weird but cool, not sure if it's just my 1060 cooperating or if this is normal, but my 1060 6gb is perfectly happy to run on the riser with the 5v line snipped.


So at least for my 1060 it seems like I can get away with only running 12V power to the GPU, fantastic.
 

Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Multi Update!
You may have seen it already, but I tested if the a300 can run on 12v instead of the 19v the power brick provides, and it can!
This greatly simplifies the power problem. No longer will I need a stepup converter or 19v solution. I can go 100% 12v!



I designed a rough test layout of the mobo/ GPU sandwich and a custom cosmetic ram heatsink and started the print last Friday:




It finished today and I test fitted the GPU+ riser to it without issue, now I need to drop out the holes for the standoffs, acquire standoffs, and drill holes for the riser mounting screws to test it!
The ramsink is designed to fit over a double sided sodimm like a glove and is slightly too narrow to fit over 2, so I'll need to adjust the spacing a little. Or just make it a tiny version of the EKWB monarch sink.









Poor picture of the ramsink, it needs a few more mm of separation between the two slots.
Also the sodimm in the picture is a ddr3 dimm since I only have one ddr4 dimm which is in my build at the moment. 😂[/Img]
 
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robbee

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Sep 24, 2016
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Following this! And props on the Prusa, got one happily running here myself :)
 
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Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Unfortunately it's not my prusa, it's one of several at a local makerspace.
Though I'm definitely considering getting one.
 

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Measured my EKWB Supremacy EVO X99 block w/ koolance low profile 90° fittings, 40mm from the bottom of the cold plate to the top of the fitting. Barely taller than the L9i :)
 

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Print for the MWLP350-1001 is complete!

Turned out great! The brim was a little spaghetti for some reason but the actual print was great. Also printed a 140mm to 120mm fan adapter, also turned out pretty well as well.
Pic of PSU print:
 
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W4RR10R

Cable-Tie Ninja
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Jan 29, 2019
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Are the display outs from the gpu and the rear io of the the stx board on the same side using that m.2 adapter? Ive been thinking about switching to the "stx" version of the r43 for my build just havent been able to visualize how everything would sit.
 

Curiosity

SFF>Speed
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Unfortunately (?) It's the front io lined up with the GPU IO. (The audio in/ out, type c and 3.0A)

For me that works out great, I don't mind working on passing the USB and Ethernet through manually, and it lets me hide the dc-in inside the case. But it sounds like that might be a negative for you.

The picture in post #11 kind of shows the io situation.

Maybe adtlink could build a riser that flips the gpu on request?
 
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Curiosity

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Got to roughly mocking up the mobo+rad+psu.

Looking good so far, gets me a better idea of spacing needed for mobo-rad.

Minimum is 6mm, which puts the vga connector touching the rad, if I do 9mm the back of this busted USB connector touches the rad. So a safe bet is 1cm, but I'm 100% going to try to get the gap as small as possible.

Fan adapter basically failed, the print was clean but my hole spacing was off.

New ram heatsink fits like a dream, I'm encouraged to but some metal stock and try making it for real now.
 
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