Log 16L high end SFF case in wood and aluminium!

[Ameubius]

Pictures of the final build per november 2023

Original sketchup models

External dimensions:
D: 355mm;
H: 370mm;
W: 122mm;
Voulme: 16L

Internal volume: 14L

PC components:
CPU: Core i9 9900K
CPU-cooler: Corsair Hydro H115i RGB
MOBO: Z390i gaming (Asus Rog Strix)
SSD (nvme): Samsung 970 evo plus 2 TB
RAM: G.Skill TridentZ 3200 MHz CL14 32GB
GPU: RTX 3080ti OC (Asus Rog Strix)
PSU: Cooler Master V850 SFX Gold
Fans: 2 x Noctua NF-A14 black
PCIe riser cable: Linkup
PC case: AmeubiWood productions (c)

The main feature is the two 140mm exhaust fans behind the GPU, removing the bulk heat from that unit mixing with the rest of the system.

I would like comments, especially on the close proximity between one of the radiator fans and the PSU intake. As I understand, air temperature doesn’t increase that many degrees passing through the rad, so hopefully the PSU will be fine?

I also guess the cables that comes with the PSU will be far to long and bulky, thus we’re talking customization, either home made or Cable Mod.

I will have to place the on-button somewhere, but I don’t plan any front panel connectors.

Cheers

 

[Ameubius]

Every detail isn't worked out yet. I seem to end up getting "better" ideas while making my builds, but I'm really committed to this, I think ;P

The problem with SFF is the increasingly higher power targets of the internal components, such as the GPU, CPU as well as VRMs and PSU.

I believe this design could work with the highest end components, now and in the future, retaining an inner volume of about only 14L.

I really can't see how much smaller I can make it without compromising the temps, and perhaps I've already crossed the line with this build?

Anyhow, my plan is to include the 3080ti (rog strix), a SFX-L PSU (above 1000W), and for the time being; the 9900K cooled with a 280mm AIO.

The main feature is the two 140mm exhaust fans behind the GPU, removing the bulk heat from that unit mixing with the rest of the system.

It will be interesting to see how this will work out.

External dimensions: D: 355mm; H: 370mm; W: 122mm; Voulme; 16,02L

I would like comments, especially on the close proximity between one of the radiator fans and the PSU intake. As I understand, air temperature doesn’t increase that many degrees passing through the rad, so hopefully the PSU will be fine?

I also guess the cables that comes with the PSU will be far to long and bulky, thus we’re talking customization, either home made or Cable Mod.

I will have to place the on-button somewhere, but I don’t plan any front panel connectors.

Cheers

A little update. I've cut the four sides and used a router to make half blind dovetails at the corners. I'm currently gluing it up (see pics). For those interested, I've used teakwood. It's exactly 120mm wide and 12mm thin, thus perfect for my project.

 

[Ameubius]

A little update. I've cut the four sides and used a router to make half blind dovetails at the corners. I'm currently gluing it up (see pics). For those interested, I've used teakwood. It's exactly 120mm wide and 12mm thin, thus perfect for my project.

Another small milestone.

The backplate/mounting bracket made the GPU 4-5mm too long, but luckily it's removable, thus I decided to make my own out of aluminum.

I also made this little 5 mm thick frame out of teakwood, so the GPU gets centered perfectly.

Next I'll make a small "knob" for the GPU to rest on at the front. Then I'll start on the cutout for the MB, as well as the ventilation holes at the top.

I've finished the "knob" business, and fixed the pcie riser expansion to the bottom of the case. I need to purchase a longer riser cable, though. I continued with cutting and bending the aluminium plate that is going to separate the lower (GPU) and upper (CPU/PSU) compartments. The two-way bend wasn't that straight forward, but turned out alright I think.

Well, that's all for now. More updates in a week or so.

Cheers

A minor update. I finished mounting the alu plate, and started measuring the fitment of the aio rad placement.
My recently bought BeQuiet 280mm CPU cooler has too short, and far to ridgid tubes for my plan to work. Besides, the pump/block combo sticks out more than allowed, so I'm changing back to my old Corsair H110, where I need to figure out the cable mess due to software controlled RGB and pump/fan control. I also needs separate power, so I'm looking forward fiddeling with the cabel management. At least I'll have RGB to marvel al... ;P

 

[Ameubius]

The build is slowly progressing...

Using my table router to carve out these shapes in an aluminum panel. It will be spaced between the radiator and the fans, and help to secure them to the inside of the case.

It will be mounted at the opposite side, between the rad and the fans.

Test fitting. Seems to be nice and snug.

 

[BaK]

I would like comments, especially on the close proximity between one of the radiator fans and the PSU intake. As I understand, air temperature doesn’t increase that many degrees passing through the rad, so hopefully the PSU will be fine?

I had a similar setup on my NCase build, push pull though, with the idea of removing the PSU fan for less noise.
Never tried it as I ended up switching the PSU intake on the outside of the case to improve the cable management.

You can have a look at some Ncase builds to see if others don't have issue with a similar setup than yours.
Should be ok as the air should not be heated that much as you say, but what is the reason of not having the PSU the other way and get fresh air from the outside?

I continued with cutting and bending the aluminium plate that is going to separate the lower (GPU) and upper (CPU/PSU) compartments. The two-way bend wasn't that straight forward, but turned out alright I think.

Two compartments, sounds good!
Isn't a cutout to let pass the riser missing?

Using my table router to carve out these shapes in an aluminum panel. It will be spaced between the radiator and the fans, and help to secure them to the inside of the case.

I did a similar job with a dremel lately, the table router seems to be a much better tool for such work, looks so neat!

 

[Ameubius]

I had a similar setup on my NCase build, push pull though, with the idea of removing the PSU fan for less noise.
Never tried it as I ended up switching the PSU intake on the outside of the case to improve the cable management.

You can have a look at some Ncase builds to see if others don't have issue with a similar setup than yours.
Should be ok as the air should not be heated that much as you say, but what is the reason of not having the PSU the other way and get fresh air from the outside?


Two compartments, sounds good!
Isn't a cutout to let pass the riser missing?


I did a similar job with a dremel lately, the table router seems to be a

I had a similar setup on my NCase build, push pull though, with the idea of removing the PSU fan for less noise.
Never tried it as I ended up switching the PSU intake on the outside of the case to improve the cable management.

You can have a look at some Ncase builds to see if others don't have issue with a similar setup than yours.
Should be ok as the air should not be heated that much as you say, but what is the reason of not having the PSU the other way and get fresh air from the outside?


Two compartments, sounds good!
Isn't a cutout to let pass the riser missing?


I did a similar job with a dremel lately, the table router seems to be a much better tool for such work, looks so neat!

Thanks for your reply,

Firstly, there's only 2-3 mm between the radiator fan and PSU. I'm concerned that turning the PSU will block the fan exhaust more than with my current plan?

Secondly, there will be cutouts for the riser cable and power cables.

Lastly, It's amazing what carbide can do to aluminum

 

[Valantar]

This is looking really nice! I've never seen half blind dovetail joints before - any particular reason you went that route? Are you not going to round over the corners like in the renders? Also looking forward to seeing how the side panels end up looking - hopefully they manage to stand up to the gorgeous woodwork

 

[BaK]

Firstly, there's only 2-3 mm between the radiator fan and PSU. I'm concerned that turning the PSU will block the fan exhaust more than with my current plan?

Obvious reason which occurred to me soon after my reply...
A slim fan could be handy if the PSU doesn't like the hot air and you want to try turning it.

Lastly, It's amazing what carbide can do to aluminum

Would your table router be able to do small openings such as the GPU ports on the bracket?

 

[Ameubius]

This is looking really nice! I've never seen half blind dovetail joints before - any particular reason you went that route? Are you not going to round over the corners like in the renders? Also looking forward to seeing how the side panels end up looking - hopefully they manage to stand up to the gorgeous woodwork

Thanks Valantar;

Half blind is faster with my dovetail jig from Porter+Cable. I can cut both sides of each corner at once, and round over the corners later. Through dovetails may look a bit nicer, but when you round over the half blind types, they look somewhat alike. I'm not a big fan of hand made dovetails, at least if I'm the one doing the hand work.

I don't believe the side panels will end up looking that great. I'll have to use M3 flat head screws to fasten them to the sides (or alternatively I could use M3 thumbscrews, but they'll stick out more).

Ideally I'd like to use a bit wider stock of wood than 120mm, but the one I had bought only comes that width. 125-130mm would allow to cut a shallow rabbet from the inside where the side panels could be placed, thus leaving some wood around on the outside, like a thin frame. The components also would get a little more space, especially between the radiator fans and the other parts in the upper compartment.

 

[Ameubius]

Obvious reason which occurred to me soon after my reply...
A slim fan could be handy if the PSU doesn't like the hot air and you want to try turning it.


Would your table router be able to do small openings such as the GPU ports on the bracket?

Yeah, slimmer fans is definitely an option, but good quality slim 140mm fans are harder to come over, and likely don't work that well when it comes to noise and airflow? I actually bought a couple in silver and with continous blue LEDs, but they appear quite cheap and I'd rather not use them. No PWM if I recall correctly.

No, I don't believe my table router is up for that task. I always try to use templates as guides when cutting out different shapes with my table or hand held routers. Because of the small size of the GPU ports I think I'll have to opt for my Dremel, and most likely these small hand held metal files I have. I've done something similar before.

 

[Ameubius]

Got my riser cable today. 200mm

Used my spindle sander to adjust the shape of the opening to the fan. Small steps.

 

[Ameubius]

Seems to fit as intended.

The ram modules are close, but still clears the back of the fan.

Close up.

Not much space to work, but I plan to mount the motherboard first, securing it with screws from the back side. Then the radiator gets in, and lastly the PSU.

The GPU and fans in the bottom chamber, I guess, can be mounted either before or after.

It's starting to look better and better...

This picture shows how all the parts will come together (apart from the GPU).

I think there is room for a sfx-l PSU, I might buy one of the new +1000W ones that Cooler Master has announced, but the 850W I've shown, should be all I need for now. I actually have plenty of room for cables, although I have ordered a custom short 24 pin for the mobo. I'll also be making three really short power cables for the GPU ( +/- 6cm?).

Just rounded over the edges.

 

[Ameubius]

One way to make a lot of holes, 52 to be exact.

Made a cutout for the motherboard i/o

 

[BaK]

Wow, all by hand, beautiful!
Even with the right tools I would probably have half of the holes off centered or have destroyed parts of wood between the holes!

 

[Ameubius]

Wow, all by hand, beautiful!
Even with the right tools I would probably have half of the holes off centered or have destroyed parts of wood between the holes!

Thanks, it worked out well enough, but the underside left a bit to be desired. It's not CNC grade accuracy, but you'll have to inspect it a bit close up to notice. Next time I'll drill the holes before the glue up using a stepping drill bit. Cheers

 

[NegativeONE]

Cool, any concerns with heat and using timber? i was thinking of using "kerfing" years ago and doing a mixture of timber and 3d printed panels, but but it on hold.

 

[Ameubius]

Cool, any concerns with heat and using timber? i was thinking of using "kerfing" years ago and doing a mixture of timber and 3d printed panels, but but it on hold.

Well, no. As you can see, I'm concerned with temps in general, but I believe sufficient airflow will keep the hottest components cool. The hot parts will not be mounted directly onto the wood either, so I'm quite confident the hot air inside won't exceed the self ignition temp of teakwood.

If you're thinking about the wood drying and possibly warping, I can ensure the glued joint are rather strong, and together with the aluminum parts, will keep the structure intact.

In fact, I've already built two other PCs for my family, although different design (larger inner volums), they have worked just great.

My main concern, really, is sound vibrations. In my other projects I've been able to reduce amplification of the vibrating parts with rubber grommets and such. Because of the limited space in this build, I might not manage controlling this phenomenon as well as before. I'll place small silicone or rubber knobs underneath for it to stand on, and we'll see how it goes.

At least, I don't plan to use mechanical hard drives. ;P

 

[Ameubius]

Ok, so I have a question.
I think it's possible to place the power socket lower, but then I'm wondering if the on/off switch should be placed in front or at the rear side?
Please have a look, and feel free to comment

Be aware, the SketchUp "renders" are not 100% accurate, and I have removed the side panels, as I plan to focus on them later.

 

[BaK]

If the button comes with a LED that could be distracting, .ie while watching movies, having it at the back could be a good idea.
If not, I guess it's up to you if you prefer a clean front panel or not.

In case the sizes are matching, I would probably have put the power button into one of the ventilation holes, in the first row.

 

[Ameubius]

If the button comes with a LED that could be distracting, .ie while watching movies, having it at the back could be a good idea.
If not, I guess it's up to you if you prefer a clean front panel or not.

In case the sizes are matching, I would probably have put the power button into one of the ventilation holes, in the first row.

That's actually a good idea. I'll try that first. Thanks