10L Acrylic PC case! (Previously 14L ATX PSU compatible case!)

Sigmaeleven

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Mar 31, 2016
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Still in design stages, thoughts? It will be totally be laser cut and fastened with the T-bolt construction method.

Link on the T-bolt construction method here:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-Anything-Using-Acrylic-and-Machine-Sc/



As above the T-bolt interlocking construction is still pretty rough and are still pretty much dummied out until I receive my hex M3 screws and finally be able to measure them in person.


How the insides will roughly look like



Fully Assembled: The leftmost being the case (sorry for the crudeness!)



One of the main reasons why I came up with this case is mostly because of the prohibitive costs of shipping SFF cases to my country as well as the price of the SFF enclosures themselves even before shipping. It's also an awesome opportunity to work with acrylics which can prove useful for me in my future endeavours with the material! (Another reason might be that I find my current Node 304 case is just still too big and plain for me.)

It's not the smallest case at 14 liters, and I can agree with that. This case is designed for compatibility with ATX PSUs (even non-modular ones) as well as long graphics cards (because exotic SFX, flex-ATX or even picoPSUs can add a lot to the budget!) but without sacrificing space at that. Most cube cases solve that problem, but it takes too much space (think Corsair 250D or Bitfenix Prodigy).

and then comes the problem with transportation...

I forgot to add that I will be carrying this PC on a luggage along with my clothes for my college, overseas. The Node 304 with its steel construction is just too damn heavy. I plan to do it under 2 kilograms for the case alone (in comparison the Node 304 is 4.7 kilograms without components installed!)

I'm not sure if I'm going to go for MDF or acrylics with this case though, MDF seems like a better material in terms of weight and price but the fire risk it presents as well as burnt edges seem to be a pretty effective reason for me to avoid it, if anyone could dispel that notion, that would be much appreciated!

I think that's all for what I thought of during the conception of this particular case, if there's any critiques or questions or even suggestion for this case it will be much of a help for me!

Update:

Revised it to accept SFX PSUs out of Confusis' advice.... Color me intrigued.

It wont be as transparent in the final design, but to give an idea of what the layout will look like:




It shaved off entire 4 L off my previous draft at the expense of using shorter cards and only able to use SFX PSUs now. Space saving!

Another update! :

It might be my mistake for not telling you guys that this is a bit of a personal project and not a jab in the PC case industry. I'm just a 17 year old trying to figure a smaller case to take with abroad! :D

Casing is to be able to be assembled with minimal outside components as possible (It's going to be fastened by M3 screws! they're pretty plenty out there in various shapes and sizes. Anti-vandal switches as well as those super useful PCI risers too.) as well as the choice of 5mm acrylic the user might want to cut out of. I'm talking something that the user could personalize themselves.

I plan to have this case's schematics released in .dwf ; sure, I might lose a big business opportunity, but I want to give some kind of tribute towards the maker/ PC builder community.

Latest update:

Going for the DAN cases A4-SFX layout, and I can see why it's the rather popular...

Some quick renders on the third revision:




13.7 cm x 34.5 cm x 23.4 cm....

Drumroll......

Exactly 11 L! Where did that extra 1 L come from? D:

It now fits long GPUs. Now you could easily slap a GTX Titan in it. It contributed to extra liter gained, I suppose.

Another that might cause the extra liter is the airflow chamber (as well as PSU mounting). Shaving off that chamber can really save some space but I want a properly ventilated and portable rig too! It can fit two slim 120mm fans up top (no support for radiator due to how the motherboard mounts, currently.

Also, I guess I will need vents on the side panels now.
 
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Sigmaeleven

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Mar 31, 2016
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I sure like the compression factor but it seems to me that you have no room to install the PSU cables.
Actually I did give space for the cables, it will route straight down to a chamber 3.5cm x 32cm x 16cm big, I believe it's enough for most cables to be routed. It's more than an inch of space!



if you look closely there are two levels just before the base of the case, that is the chamber I'm talking about!
 
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Supercluster

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Feb 24, 2016
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if you look closely there are two levels just before the base of the case, that is the chamber I'm talking about!

I see. It seems a bit inefficient for a few reasons (to me at least):

1. The GPU cable would be rather hard to route, although I guess it's a design choice.
2. The motherboard area has no additional space for eventual angled SATA connectors, yet you have an entire chamber dedicated only to cables, so it will be mostly empty
3. The lower chamber also adds material (and cost) as well as complexity and some volume for no practical advantage

Have you considered just having the same volume, or even a little shorter without that "middle plate" and centering the motherboard vertically for some breathing space and, dare I say, a little less cumbersome cable routing?
 

Ceros_X

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Mar 8, 2016
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My only concern would be that acrylic is very brittle - especially if you are packing it in a suitcase with PC components and leaving it to the mercy of baggage handlers. Otherwise, I like the concept - SFF cases that take ATX PSUs are few and far between.

Also, did you consider rotating the PSU to save on width?
 

Sigmaeleven

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Mar 31, 2016
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This.

Polycarbonate would be preferred for something much more rugged (albeit more expensive).

My PSU cables are going to sleeved and shortened for easy management, although it would defeat the purpose of the compatibility for most ATX PSUs. I would later do an alternate version that would be able to accept more ATX PSUs though, so watch out for that!

I think the chamber is necessary for further structural support.

I need time to think on the SATA cables, though. I might just use straight ones instead of angled ones.

What are your thoughts on MDF as a material?

My only concern would be that acrylic is very brittle - especially if you are packing it in a suitcase with PC components and leaving it to the mercy of baggage handlers. Otherwise, I like the concept - SFF cases that take ATX PSUs are few and far between.

Also, did you consider rotating the PSU to save on width?

Rotating the PSU, yep. Straight on would be just too thick. Also, what are your thoughts on MDF as a material?
 
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Supercluster

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Feb 24, 2016
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I don't think that MDF would be a smart choice. It's very brittle, so you would need to use thicker (and heavier) panels which is bad for travel use. It's also porous, every dent can potentially chip it (though it is very cheap). It's also destroyed if you moisten it.

If you wanted to go the wood route I would suggest ply-wood: it is actually wood, not some mush of wood-chips bonded together, can be rigid and durable, quality and thickness dependant, it should also be cheaper and less brittle than acrylic.

For best quality and durability PC is the way to go. Considering small volume, your material costs are not very high compared to laser cutting your design requires.
 

Ceros_X

King of Cable Management
Mar 8, 2016
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Rotating the PSU, yep. Straight on would be just too thick. Also, what are your thoughts on MDF as a material?

MDF is cheap and easy to work with, but if it ever gets wet you are pretty screwed. I'd rather go wood over MDF, personally.
 

Sigmaeleven

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Mar 31, 2016
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I don't think that MDF would be a smart choice. It's very brittle, so you would need to use thicker (and heavier) panels which is bad for travel use. It's also porous, every dent can potentially chip it (though it is very cheap). It's also destroyed if you moisten it.

If you wanted to go the wood route I would suggest ply-wood: it is actually wood, not some mush of wood-chips bonded together, can be rigid and durable, quality and thickness dependant, it should also be cheaper and less brittle than acrylic.

For best quality and durability PC is the way to go. Considering small volume, your material costs are not very high compared to laser cutting your design requires.
Plywood's actually a really viable option! Now to ask whether there is 5mm plywood available...

Sadly I'm not sure whether there is polycarbonate suppliers over here...

Edit: Laser cut Polycarbonates are not really a choice....

the edges look pretty rough and browned, and it produces thick fumes when laser cut...
 
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Sigmaeleven

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Mar 31, 2016
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What are your guys' thoughts about sticking with acrylic but using foam padding as to help with the transportation?

(or even clothes as padding!) :D
 
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Josh | NFC

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CHEMCAST(tm) cell-cast acrylic is pretty tough stuff...especially at 3mm. It also cuts quite nicely on a laser bed. It is more brittle than polycarbs, but nothing like extruded acrylic...

Your particular design has some spots that make me think you need a thicker sheet though--I would recommend 1/4" for this project.
 

Sigmaeleven

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Mar 31, 2016
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CHEMCAST(tm) cell-cast acrylic is pretty tough stuff...especially at 3mm. It also cuts quite nicely on a laser bed. It is more brittle than polycarbs, but nothing like extruded acrylic...
I'm using 5mm, even better!

Edit: Didn't see your ninja edit. 1/4" would translate to 6mm thick acrylic... I heard Parvum cases got away with using 5mm acrylics though?

Painting acrylics to make it scratch-proof: yay or nay?

Carbon fibre vinyl seems like a sweet Idea for the exterior...
 
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confusis

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Hate to bring it up but... why ATX - with the SF600 released and a 700w from Silverstone due soon, what is the need for such a big PSU?
 

Josh | NFC

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Jun 12, 2015
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I'm using 5mm, even better!

Edit: Didn't see your ninja edit. 1/4" would translate to 6mm thick acrylic... I heard Parvum cases got away with using 5mm acrylics though?

I'm U.S. based and you generally buy sheets in std measurements. 5mm should be OK--keep in mind Parvum uses two 5mm sheets bolted together for strength where needed.


Painting acrylics to make it scratch-proof: yay or nay?
Carbon fibre vinyl seems like a sweet Idea for the exterior...

Cell-cast acrylic doesn't scratch easier than paint--and it is easier to clean up and buff out in my opinion. Just be careful as some reducers or thinners can cause damage to the acrylic, so put it on thin and light and build up slowly--no heavy coats.

I think you have the right idea about vinyl though :)
 

Sigmaeleven

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Mar 31, 2016
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Hate to bring it up but... why ATX - with the SF600 released and a 700w from Silverstone due soon, what is the need for such a big PSU?

I really can't blame you for asking that, damn. :D

I'm aware that most builds in this SFF site are ridiculously extreme in their efficiency (4L!) and I appreciate the effort done with the choice of parts, but I don't want to add unnecessary budget to my build as I am using existing parts. Adding another $139.99 just to shave ~3cm is just too extreme in my opinion. Add to that when I'm basically living in the other side of the earth just makes it harder for me to find parts like those around here, even if it's released.

Well, unless I can secure some funding for myself later on, I might just invest in an SFX PSU, but let's see.
 
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Sigmaeleven

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Mar 31, 2016
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Revised it to accept SFX PSUs out of Confusis' advice.... Color me intrigued.

It wont be as transparent in the final design, but to give an idea of what the layout will look like:




It shaved off entire 4 L off my previous draft at the expense of using shorter cards and only able to use SFX PSUs now. However, this means extra expenses...
 
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confusis

John Morrison. Founder and Team Leader of SFF.N
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Where do you live if you don't mind me asking? We can get quality SFX psus here at the bottom of the world in NZ!
 

Sigmaeleven

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Where do you live if you don't mind me asking? We can get quality SFX psus here at the bottom of the world in NZ!
Indonesia! Though I live awfully near Singapore (it's just a ferry trip away).

Just found the ST45SF-G for sale around here. Is it a good PSU?

(I might just wait for the Corsair SF450 to be sold around here. It might take 1-2 months for the local distributors to get a hold of it though...)
 
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michaelmitchell

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Mar 12, 2016
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Indonesia! Though I live awfully near Singapore (it's just a ferry trip away).

Just found the ST45SF-G for sale around here. Is it a good PSU?

(I might just wait for the Corsair SF450 to be sold around here. It might take 1-2 months for the local distributors to get a hold of it though...)

You shouldn't have any problem getting things especially so close to Singapore, most of this stuff is made in this area of the world so really everyone else is on the other side of the world in that regard. I have no problem finding things in Northern Thailand and I would say that is more "isolated" than Singapore.

http://www.lazada.co.id/power-supply-silverstone-sst-st45sf-g-5807242.html - Lazada Indonesia has it listed and from what I can see at a decent price.

http://www.lazada.sg/silverstone-sfx-450w-80plus-gold-229211.html - Lazada Singapore has a great selection of SilverStone stuff as well if they will ship to you or you can ship to someone in Singapore and pick it up on a trip there.

Where do you live if you don't mind me asking? We can get quality SFX psus here at the bottom of the world in NZ!

I can vouch for this, it doesn't get much worse than New Zealand... so if New Zealand has them you can probably pick them up from a street vendor in Mongolia.
 
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