?Ncase M1 or Louqe Ghost water cooled build help?

[stepnyVLK]

The fittings are smaller than the alphacool ones both have a diameter of 22mm the ek ones are 17mm tall when screwed in the alphacool 27 ( they dont state if overall or screwed in but its maximum 5mm less)
If you planing to get this
Take some extensions aswell im worried that the thick fittings wount go thdu the holes on the case
Like this:

 

[KronDestroyer13]

The alphacool quick links you send dont have fittings:
"Deep Black Thread: 2x 1/4" internal thread"
As i sayed get one type of fittings
I would suggeat ek acf
2x2 rads 2x2 quick detachment 2 gpu 2 cpu 2 for espansion bottle. So 14
and 2-4 90deg angles they are handy
Thats why i dont like to use quick cuplings the often cost 60+ for no real bennefit.
And dont forget the coolant get something not colored its just troubble.

Okay I'm just going to go with your suggestion and stay away from the quick detach fitting. And thanks for the fitting suggestions, so what does "redundant" mean? Is that just when you have two pumps working together? So if I got that iceman pump/res combo plus a apogee it would make the system redundant? And yeah there is no point in going with a colored coolant anyways with the black tubing and gpu being not visible. Should u do something other then distilled water? Also what do you mean use a dedicated ddc with a push on top?

 

[stepnyVLK]

Okay I'm just going to go with your suggestion and stay away from the quick detach fitting. And thanks for the fitting suggestions, so what does "redundant" mean? Is that just when you have two pumps working together? So if I got that iceman pump/res combo plus a apogee it would make the system redundant? And yeah there is no point in going with a colored coolant anyways with the black tubing and gpu being not visible. Should u do something other then distilled water? Also what do you mean use a dedicated ddc with a push on top?

Redundant in this case means:
"(of a component) not strictly necessary to functioning but included in case of failure in another component."
But with the ddc thats not needed. And if you plug it into the mainboard if you have a pwm version and a 18 watt fan/pump plug on the mobo than you can monitor it for fail (most mobos have that)
You shlouldnt use just destiled water for longer time algea will build inthere for testing its ok.
And for cleaning you should flush all components befor first use. And dont blow with your breath into componenta the bacteria are assholes they like the warm watter.
"Ddc with a push on top" i honestly have no clue what i ment with that. I generaly dont read stuff after me so its a typo but if i had to guess: i probably ment a ddc with a top but if you are getting the dedicated expansion tank with a ddc there is no need for that. I never seen a ddc fail but if you get the external reservoir get a cooling body (since the normal plastic body doesnt fit ln there you have to cut the screw legs) ive read that they overheat but never seen that to be honest especialy if you regulate it down witch i bet you will.

 

[stepnyVLK]

And yes the apogee and the iceman would make it redundant but thats a bit of overkill especialy for that tiny loop if a pump fails (i kind of had that when i once forgot to plug the pump into power after refill. The water transfers the heat even without moving to a degree you get like 70 deg in windows on idle you will notice it trust me

I would suggest 2x dc-lt's to be redundant but thats only because ppl dont trust them yet. They are nice little pieces of kit they are ceramic and are engeneered for pc cooling not like the liang ones they are repurposed plumming pumps (the d5). But thats why they are so popular and reliable.

 

[KronDestroyer13]

hey i was looking at these here https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-torque-stc-10-16-black but the 90 degree one you linked was the aluminum ones i think. lol im super new to this and dont want to make a noob mistake but i have to go with the non aluminum style ones right? the aluminum ones cant go in the same loop as any copper? i just want to verify. And does it matter between the STC and the ACF fittings? i suppose if it doesnt i should just go with the ones that are on sale which are the ACF version.
ps i was thinking about just pulling the trigger on the active cooling back plate if you guys think i will have a good chance of returning it through amazon if it doesn't fit. what do you think? lol

 

[stepnyVLK]

Im not shore how does amazon threat opened and used goods. My radiator ws just opened and visualy inspected. And obvipuslu faulty (bend). The seller just mouned about it and payed back. Honestly if he couldnt see the damage than he was blind.
But back to your dillema as i mentioned dont go for anything fancy for a first build this is fancy enough being a small case and tight packageing. All waterblocks are more than enough for cooling your vga. Before you run out of vga block power you run out of radiator power first.
Especialy with that tight clearance of the bottom one. Get an ek thats safe even for rma. And remember the block that evga sells doesnt have any fancy cooling points (the aquacomputer cools 3 chips more i think) and it works
And you will be most likely changing the vga next year anyway thats my plan thats why only got a 2080 there is no way i pay 2x money for 20-30% more performance.

Aluminium and brass copper you can safely mix as long as you are using the right fluid go with alfacools simple cape kelvin

Alphacool CKC Cape Kelvin Catcher Clear Kanister 3000ml

Alphacool CKC ist eine speziell bei PC Wasserkühlungen verwendeten Materialien und Komponenten abgestimmte hochleistungs- Kühlflüssigkeit. CKC basiert auf Stoffen mit langjährig erprobter Anwendungstauglichkeit im harten...

www.alphacool.com

But i would advice you not to use the aluminium fittings you can overtight them by hand.

 

[KronDestroyer13]

gotcha, i appreciate it man. ive been looking alot more into the aquacomputer block and the connection port that comes with the gpu block(not the second one that you have to replace it with that comes with the back plate) honesty looks like it will work, the one in @rfarmer 's build is the one that comes with the back plate and its wayyy bigger. the one that comes with the block itself is pretty flush with the height of the card it self and doesnt extend past it as far as i can tell. i hear your concern though and i still want to make sure it will work before i make any purchases. lol Im just so attracted to the temps that block provides opposed to EK's(or anyones elses for that matter) and how its cools everything. i know any block is going to be good in the long run though. Im going to get that super slim RAD on the bottom from XSPC too just to make sure ive got as much wiggle room as i can get down there.
Hey @rfarmer could you give me a measurement from your gpu(not the connection port but the backplate) to the edge of the side mounted RAD for me? i want to get a idea how much room i have to work with.
im also curious if i get the ICEMAN resivour with a ddc pump would i be able to get away with just using that to drive the system until i can get my hands on a either a Eisbear or apogee and just get a cpu block? and what pump would i get with that res anyways if that would work?
LOL are you telling me my 2080ti is going to be obsolete by next year?(i wouldnt be suprised but damn thats F!@#ing annoying after spending $1100!

 

[paulesko]

The ddc pump is completely capable of deling with the loop you are planing, it´s way more powerful than the iesbaer one, is that your corncern? or am I misunderstanding you? I would say that in fact you would get better temps running a ddc pump with a dedicated cpu block than the apogee or the eisbaer. I don´t know about the sound that the ddc makes or which one of them is quieter if that is important to you.

About the 2080 ti getting outdated, it is said that nex gen nvidias are going out first half of next year. But maybe they release the (lets say) 3060 3070 and 3080, being the 3080 on par with your 2080 ti more or less and then, in 2nd half of 2020 a 3080 ti will appear. But who know. Maybe we have a 3080 ti in april if amd launches something really good that is better than the 2080 ti (I wouldn´t put my money on that honestly)

One thing is true, and is that it doesn´t look like a good move to buy such an expensive gpu just now, beacuse next year looks is going to be interesting in this regard.

 

[KronDestroyer13]

yeah i was just worried about how i was going to move all this water in this loop. i dont know if the eisbear would be able to handle it and the apogee is out of stock everywhere. so lets say i do grab a ICEMAN res/pump what ddc should i get in your opinion? also is this res/pump combo reliable? i kinda like the idea of just getting this res/pump combo instead to be honest and grabbing a cpu block.(which CPU block do you suggest too?)
On the matter of the GPU. i know your going to say its my call but my whole concern is im going to get this computer up and running and if i settle for a lesser GPU im not going to be able to drive the games i want on a 3440x1440 120-144hz ultra wide. im almost willing to just grab a 2080ti still and if those cards do come out then swap it out with a new one(once the TI comes out) and either buy a secondary 2080ti for cheaper(hopefully) and do a dual 2080ti custom loop mid tower Lian Li define PC-011 build OR sell it obviously. This is always going to be my main desktop computer in the end but i love building systems and i want to build the wife a system too eventually( excuse) lollll

 

[stepnyVLK]

gotcha, i appreciate it man. ive been looking alot more into the aquacomputer block and the connection port that comes with the gpu block(not the second one that you have to replace it with that comes with the back plate) honesty looks like it will work, the one in @rfarmer 's build is the one that comes with the back plate and its wayyy bigger. the one that comes with the block itself is pretty flush with the height of the card it self and doesnt extend past it as far as i can tell. i hear your concern though and i still want to make sure it will work before i make any purchases. lol Im just so attracted to the temps that block provides opposed to EK's(or anyones elses for that matter) and how its cools everything. i know any block is going to be good in the long run though. Im going to get that super slim RAD on the bottom from XSPC too just to make sure ive got as much wiggle room as i can get down there.
Hey @rfarmer could you give me a measurement from your gpu(not the connection port but the backplate) to the edge of the side mounted RAD for me? i want to get a idea how much room i have to work with.
im also curious if i get the ICEMAN resivour with a ddc pump would i be able to get away with just using that to drive the system until i can get my hands on a either a Eisbear or apogee and just get a cpu block? and what pump would i get with that res anyways if that would work?
LOL are you telling me my 2080ti is going to be obsolete by next year?(i wouldnt be suprised but damn thats F!@#ing annoying after spending $1100!

that reservoir with a ddc pum (any ddc pump) but especialy a 1t plus or the 3.25 could probably drive 2 of the loops you are planning and dont break a sweat.
the advantage of the ddc pump is that it has such a high torque that it has a lot of pressure.

 

[stepnyVLK]

About the 2080 ti getting outdated, it is said that nex gen nvidias are going out first half of next year. But maybe they release the (lets say) 3060 3070 and 3080, being the 3080 on par with your 2080 ti more or less and then, in 2nd half of 2020 a 3080 ti will appear. But who know. Maybe we have a 3080 ti in april if amd launches something really good that is better than the 2080 ti (I wouldn´t put my money on that honestly)

One thing is true, and is that it doesn´t look like a good move to buy such an expensive gpu just now, beacuse next year looks is going to be interesting in this regard.

thats absolute 100% true i bought my 2080 in summer whenn they came with the whole super thing i wanted to get the 2080 year prior but not for 800 Euros thats sh... is noway near 800 i bought it for 600 thats "ok" (god one has to think about whats ok theese days) the 2080 ti is absolutly meaningless the times of the 980 ti and 1080 ti power/price ratio are long gone... and Nvidia being a monopol in high end can pretty mutch doo whatever they want.
if you want to be disappointed that you payed 1100 on a product that you could get the same performance for half price or somwhere around 700 than you can bee pritty shure that will happen in the next 6 months.
i went for nvidia because of rtx and i dont see there any bennefits in having it now its only good for singleplayer if you play online ppl disable it and the see you in the dark and you see crap... so absolutly useless in multiplayer.
but resell value in 2 years time when you want to sell it what do you think ppl will more likely buy a 2080 or a radeon 5700 ?
the 2080 ti in my opinion is nice if you have a lot of money blow but for the time being is basicaly pointless it doesnt have enough power to run everything in 4k and rtx on at any reasonable Frames and whitout it it cant doo 144 hz in 4k so pointless.
if im not going to game in 4k anyway then i can get by with a 2080 (non ti) and game in 1440p with even rtx on witch im doing just fine now in games like COD for instance
small tip here if you dont have a monitor that has freesync and or doesnt handle more than 60hz limit the fps the grafics card just runs at 50-70% with max settings and you dont throw away frames and grille the gpu

 

[stepnyVLK]

yeah i was just worried about how i was going to move all this water in this loop. i dont know if the eisbear would be able to handle it and the apogee is out of stock everywhere. so lets say i do grab a ICEMAN res/pump what ddc should i get in your opinion? also is this res/pump combo reliable? i kinda like the idea of just getting this res/pump combo instead to be honest and grabbing a cpu block.(which CPU block do you suggest too?)
On the matter of the GPU. i know your going to say its my call but my whole concern is im going to get this computer up and running and if i settle for a lesser GPU im not going to be able to drive the games i want on a 3440x1440 120-144hz ultra wide. im almost willing to just grab a 2080ti still and if those cards do come out then swap it out with a new one(once the TI comes out) and either buy a secondary 2080ti for cheaper(hopefully) and do a dual 2080ti custom loop mid tower Lian Li define PC-011 build OR sell it obviously. This is always going to be my main desktop computer in the end but i love building systems and i want to build the wife a system too eventually( excuse) lollll

as you can see here:
most of the time it runs under 144 hz/fps so make shure you grab a gsync/free sync monitor if you want to enjoy studder free gameplay
if you play with rtx on then its not even close

also there is only a hand full of monittors currently out there wich support 120hz and g sync
AOC Agon AG352UCG6 Black Edition, 35"
Dell Alienware AW3418DW, 34" (210-AMNE)
ASUS ROG Swift PG349Q, 34.1" (90LM04L0-B01170)
Dell Alienware AW3420DW, 34" (210-ATTP)
Acer Predator X35, 35" (UM.CX0EE.005)
ASUS ROG Swift PG35VQ, 35" (90LM03T0-B02370)

so keep that in mind

the iceman: there is almost 0 track record with it but i dont see why it should be a problem to build a tank is not that hard it basicaly comes down to if you dont overtighten the screws so that acrylyc doesnt crac and if you used a good enough seal.
But i would not be worried its outside the box so if it leaks you just have a wet desk so a 0 issue i wouldsay.
Remember all of the above products are made in china other than EK products thats in slovenia (if you believe them)
and the supplyers are pretty good by this time

cpu block depends on the cpu i would imagine you want to use the 9900K the best cpu on the planet if you believe the internet

for that any of the big names cpu block:

Koolance CPU-400I Intel CPU Water Block Review - ExtremeRigs.net

We covered the CPU-400 as a news post with some preliminary data back when we first got our sample. Now that we have all the info including the final price we can publish the full data.We will be testing the threadripper version very soon (which has been updated since the version we showed...

www.xtremerigs.net

also like this you will be more free with the block mounting you can orientate it goofy witch most of them bennefit
usualy the better cooling ones have a higher restriction but with a ddc that shouldnt be an issue.

and finaly we come to the pump based on the board you want to take i would go for an ddc 3.25 PWM if your mobo supports 18 watt of fann headers.. (most of the gigabyte ones does) and you can even set it up for queit since its the most powerfull of them all and on the motherboard you can monitor it for failiure (its an allert) setup in bios

You can get a heatkiller thats the same brand as the gpu block you aiming for...

I wouldnt orientate on the performance solely on the gpu/cpu block. Since the bottleneck in your system will be radiators /size so keep that in mind. There is no good way of getting biggerones in without cutting a hole into them witch might be contraproductive...

 

[rfarmer]

gotcha, i appreciate it man. ive been looking alot more into the aquacomputer block and the connection port that comes with the gpu block(not the second one that you have to replace it with that comes with the back plate) honesty looks like it will work, the one in @rfarmer 's build is the one that comes with the back plate and its wayyy bigger. the one that comes with the block itself is pretty flush with the height of the card it self and doesnt extend past it as far as i can tell. i hear your concern though and i still want to make sure it will work before i make any purchases. lol Im just so attracted to the temps that block provides opposed to EK's(or anyones elses for that matter) and how its cools everything. i know any block is going to be good in the long run though. Im going to get that super slim RAD on the bottom from XSPC too just to make sure ive got as much wiggle room as i can get down there.
Hey @rfarmer could you give me a measurement from your gpu(not the connection port but the backplate) to the edge of the side mounted RAD for me? i want to get a idea how much room i have to work with.
im also curious if i get the ICEMAN resivour with a ddc pump would i be able to get away with just using that to drive the system until i can get my hands on a either a Eisbear or apogee and just get a cpu block? and what pump would i get with that res anyways if that would work?
LOL are you telling me my 2080ti is going to be obsolete by next year?(i wouldnt be suprised but damn thats F!@#ing annoying after spending $1100!

Sorry I did that build back in 2016, I don't even have my Ncase anymore. Check out this build log by @HottestVapes, he ended up using the the Iceman Res/Pump in his Ncase. He would be a good one to ask any questions too.

 

[For_Science]

?

Here is my build that fits in a D5 pump to keep pump noise down. The compromise is of course that I use a 240 + 120 mm radiator instead of a 240 +240.

https://smallformfactor.net/forum/t...0-mm-radiator-8700k-1080-ti.6743/#post-169460

 

[stepnyVLK]

here is probably a more recent CPU block roundup...

CORSAIR Hydro X Series XC9 RGB CPU Water Block Review

CORSAIR enters the PC custom watercooling market with a big splash through their announcement and release of an entire product portfolio. We begin our coverage of their Hydro X series with a detailed look at the flagship XC9 RGB CPU water block, which aims to offer a feature set that is of...

www.techpowerup.com

as you see the more restrictive the more "performance" basicaly the only exception is the xspc raystorm pro thats why i chose it i knew with that tiny pump you have to get every help possible

 

[stepnyVLK]

Here is my build that fits in a D5 pump to keep pump noise down. The compromise is of course that I use a 240 + 120 mm radiator instead of a 240 +240.

https://smallformfactor.net/forum/t...0-mm-radiator-8700k-1080-ti.6743/#post-169460

that D5 is an absolute overkill but love it my brother runns a loop where he cools a threadripper with 3 360 rads solely with a d5 and it makes no noticable difference in cooling performance in anny of the 5 settings
if you go witha D5 you could use the alphacool
Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755
its mutch quieter and more powerfull according to tests
i would stick with this
build log by @HottestVapes
what rfarmer suggested thats probably the best blueprint it looks like you could fit a thicker rad but its probably better to leave some space for the air to get out under tha vga.
even a standard ddc T1 or T1pluss is more than enough for that mini build.
i was running a DDC T1 on my old system with a xspc rx360 a 280x45 and a full gpu cpu mobo/vrm loop plus 2 quick links and plenty of 90 deg angles
no problem 24/7 (render farm) till it overexpanded and started to leake after 2 years of no maintenence the cpu microfinns got coged up (i thik it was the microplastic from the tubes/ or production residue) after a clean/dissassembly it ran on another yearand a half and then i sold it i bet the pump is still running

 

[KronDestroyer13]

Thanks guys i'm going to look into this all today and get back to you with any questions or concerns. So i know you keep saying the 9900k is basically not worth it. What would you go with then if you were building a new system and you just wanted the best performance you could possibly get in a M1? i honestly want to try and not spend EVERY penny i have but like i said i want his computer to be overkill and to be able to at least push most games at max settings on a 3440x1440 monitor. i understand it most likely wont push the full 120 frame rate with a single card but i suppose thats what free-sync and g sync are for until they come out with a powerful enough GPU that can push those frames by it self. i didn't think just because i bought the most expensive GPU it would be enough but i did want to get as close to that threshold as i could and have a smooth gaming experience. ive been out of the PC game for a couple of years now and have just been going off of results i have found on the internet. lol as far as i've seen that is the fastest gaming setup even if its only by a few frames of something cheaper. so again if you guys could let me know what you think the best gaming setup would be for my Ncase id really appreciate it. i don't want to make a wrong choice like i have in the past thus the reason i came to this network!

 

[stepnyVLK]

Thanks guys i'm going to look into this all today and get back to you with any questions or concerns. So i know you keep saying the 9900k is basically not worth it. What would you go with then if you were building a new system and you just wanted the best performance you could possibly get in a M1? i honestly want to try and not spend EVERY penny i have but like i said i want his computer to be overkill and to be able to at least push most games at max settings on a 3440x1440 monitor. i understand it most likely wont push the full 120 frame rate with a single card but i suppose thats what free-sync and g sync are for until they come out with a powerful enough GPU that can push those frames by it self. i didn't think just because i bought the most expensive GPU it would be enough but i did want to get as close to that threshold as i could and have a smooth gaming experience. ive been out of the PC game for a couple of years now and have just been going off of results i have found on the internet. lol as far as i've seen that is the fastest gaming setup even if its only by a few frames of something cheaper. so again if you guys could let me know what you think the best gaming setup would be for my Ncase id really appreciate it. i don't want to make a wrong choice like i have in the past thus the reason i came to this network!

if you dont care about specter and meltdown mitigation get the 9900K if you want to have good performance for great money get the 3700x of if you can get a good deal on a 3800x (but thats like 3% more performance) if you doo care about securirty (amd apearantly doesnt suffer that mutch from specter/meltdown but still has hyperthreading)
if you want great gaming for good money consider the 9700K they should overclock better than the 9900K and no Ht no specter right and it has in most games the same if not better OC performance as the 9900K
if you dont care about money get the 9900KS
but be aware intel should come with new cpus and new sockets anytime soon ( i guess before chrismass) so new mainboards ... 10 cores plus 5ghz is rumored and faster memory support ...
try to get low cl memory that should be better for gaming i think 16gb is plenty enough and get a fast big M.2 ssd something like a samsung 970 evo or corsair mp510 (i have that one in 1.94tb) thats mandatory for fast gaming its no good to have a fast c drive and install on d when you load games/textures ...
i think thats about it. from my side
if you ask me i honestly would go with AMD and for gaming solely: its the newer platform and might be that amd doesnt change the socket next year but i think they will for the 4000 ryzens with the intel you will basically end with this generation of cpus on the 1151 socket.
VGA wise i would go with a 2080 super or even 2070 its maybe not enough for 4k rtx but you will sell it easy and get something behter next year the 2080 super is a small beast it has the fast memory you can clock it to 16000 i think.

 

[stepnyVLK]

There we go according to the rumors the next amd zen 2+ 4000 will be in fact am4 compatible and should have 200mhz more and some 8% higher sc performance.

AMD Ryzen 4000 Series Launching Early 2020 & Zen 3 on Track, CEO Confirms

AMD's president and CEO Dr. Lisa Su confirmed this Sunday that the company will be introducing its next generation Ryzen 4000 series processors by early 2020. The roll-out will start out with the company's next generation Ryzen 4000 series mobile parts, which AMD plans to debut inside a plethora...

wccftech.com

So your 9900k killer should be just a swap away.

The intel variant is called
10900k and should be turbo 5,1 on 1 core 10 cores total. Socket 1200 still not the 1331 of the am4 i honestly doubt that this will perform significantly better in single core. Plus i guess 750+ price so you could actually get an 3950 when it coms next month (or if)

Guru3D.com

Guru of 3D: Computer PC Hardware and Consumer Electronics reviews

www.guru3d.com

and-chipsets-specifications-leak.html

 

[KronDestroyer13]

damn i think you have me sold. i was thinking of going for a 3900x since its close to the same price i was already going to spend on the 9900k. what do you think? or should i just stick with the 3800x? and hell yeah i will forsure upgrade when the new 4000 series comes out. you think ill have decent luck selling a 3800x or 3900x though?
im looking into the gpu portion of the buy now. im still drawn to the 2080ti... im not trying to come across as someone who can just blow money out his A$$ but that little bit of performance id gain is a prominent reason i want to get it. if i was able to fit two GPUs into this i prob wouldnt care but im worried, and want every bit of performance i can get out of this computer.
so if im looking at those CPU block charts right if i have a pump that can handle the restrictive properties that some of them come with would the AC kryos NEXT also be the best block for me?